Choke Operation Options?

J

Jimbo75

Member
Looking for some help with options for choke operation.

Carb. Is a Holley 2 barrel (r 7133). Best I can tell, carb. Is stock to my 1975 345, is being referred to as a 2210. Po had mounted a very cheap push/pull style manual choke that doesn't seem like it ever would have worked. Alignments are off but if it did work, I would have to push manual choke knob in order to close butterfly. I do need help if anybody is still monitoring this thread.

Will an electronic version work?
I don't think I have all the components necessary to go back to a truly stock (also don't know what stock was?, maybe divorced heat/thermal?)
I live in CA, so winter temps. Aren't really going apply. My goal is an operable choke for least amount of dollar output. Doesn't need to be stock, doesn't need to be "trick". I am visual person, pics will help more than words. In case it is not already clear, I am also not a mechanic or engineer.
Thanks to all.
 

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Not ideal in my opinion. The 2210 in not a popular carb. They work but support on the parts you need can be slim unless you find a well equipped carb shop...

You have a 1975 so you know you are just out of reach of the emissions nazies.

I suggest upgrading to a new 350 cfm Holley 2300. A great carb with all of the goodies available at the retail level.
 
Thanks Robert.
You are right about the nazi's, it was no accident that I purchased a pre smog rig.
I am assuming that you are answering in regards to an electronic option.

Before I get into swapping the carb., what about manual (push/pull or other)? Has to be cheaper than a new or re-man. Carb.

Does anybody make a backwards dash knob or a bracket that gets the cable on the other side of butterfly?

Or what about the vacuum diaphragm that loops to one of the nipples on the back of the carb.?
 
If you want to make that work see if the arm on the choke shaft can be flipped over and make a proper bracket for the cable. Or you May be able to make the cable work correctly from the other side if the carb.
 
Thanks chappie.
Not sure if it can be flipped. The attachment point on passenger side appears to be "keyed" or pressed into place. Hadn't considered crossing choke cable to other side, will see if there is any real estate that doesn't interfere with throttle and kick down.

Thanks Jeff.
Many of the pics that appear to be similar carbs to mine, have what looks like this "choke pull off" you have listed here? choke pull off for thermoquad 4bbl carb - IH Parts America
I think I called it a vacuum diaphragm at some point. Mounting holes look like they would work. Even though I don't have a thermoquad, would attaching this achieve the goal?
My issue replacing the nos "choke box" is how to mount it. The po had removed the guts for me and copper mounting bolts were seized in the manifold. I drilled the bolt heads but remainder is still in place. Are there options that don't involve removing all of the fresh gaskets and parts that I just installed?
 
jimbo75 said:
thanks chappie.
Not sure if it can be flipped. The attachment point on passenger side appears to be "keyed" or pressed into place. Hadn't considered crossing choke cable to other side, will see if there is any real estate that doesn't interfere with throttle and kick down.

Thanks Jeff.
Many of the pics that appear to be similar carbs to mine, have what looks like this "choke pull off" you have listed here? choke pull off for thermoquad 4bbl carb - IH Parts America
I think I called it a vacuum diaphragm at some point. Mounting holes look like they would work. Even though I don't have a thermoquad, would attaching this achieve the goal?
My issue replacing the nos "choke box" is how to mount it. The po had removed the guts for me and copper mounting bolts were seized in the manifold. I drilled the bolt heads but remainder is still in place. Are there options that don't involve removing all of the fresh gaskets and parts that I just installed?
Click to expand...

The choke pull off is not what you need and I would not install one for a thermoquad.
 
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