Can't Turn Left

Tiny Yokum

Member
I installed 4" Skyjacker leaf springs front and rear and used the Skyjacker drop pittman arm on my '79 Scout II. All good except my left turn radius is almost double of my right turn radius and it hampers my trail running ability.
Any suggestions to improve the left turn steering radius ?
 
Put your stock pitman arm back on. This mild of a lift does not need a drop pitman arm. Regardless the drop pitman arm that Skyjacker sells is not designed properly for the Scout.
 
I forgot to mention, it also has 33x12.5 tyres and hd extended shackles on the front and rear. I drove it with the stock pittman arm for 2-3 months and it was white knuckle all the way. If I hit a bump in the road, I would end up in another lane or barely keeping control. I kept thinking I would get used it but never did. The Skyjacker pa gave me control again but the only problem is the limited left turn radius which, I guess I can live with.

Thank you Jeff, I have high regard for your opinion.
 
Did you put caster adjustment shims in with the lift? Not down playing the bump steer just wondering if that could be contributing to the issue.
 
The kit did come a pair of tapered aluminum shims. I used them on the rear after I made longer spring pak bolts (pins). It is SUA. It does turn left but radius is more than 30'.
 
The shorter pitman arm is going to slow down the steering response hence why it felt ok to drive with it installed but got 'white knuckle' when you went back to the stock arm. As Chad said I would be looking at correcting the caster first. We sell steel caster shims as the aluminum ones are too soft and will lead to constant loose ubolts.
 
you really need a set of the steel ones on the front. I think if you install those and return to your stock pitman arm you will be pleasantly suprised.

Thanks Chad. I will order those shims and try that when I have some time to work on it again. Last time I had to take the steering box out and have the machine shop take off the old pittman arm. This one has only been on for a couple months.
:gringrin:
 
Not trying to pile on here tiny! But I've seen many front end disasters over the years created through the use of aluminum (whether cast or machined from plate) axle wedges. Major "dissimilar metal" corrosion issues involved, more especially when road salt and the coastal environments are thrown in! Years ago, there were also "caster shims" made from cast zinc and no doubt many of those are still in use out thre on this junk!

Our s80 project had the same issue, the po-installed wedges had cracked/rotted and were falling out!

I used the CPT machined steel wedges from ihon for a Scout II on our rig with the narrower front springs, then partially drilled through the sides for the u-bolts and also used the extra-length center bolts ihon carries to bolt the shims to the package, no way they will ever take a hike.

Here's the 2 degree po-installed aluminum shims rotted away.
 

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Here's the 6 degree steel CPT wedges that Jeff calc'd that we needed for an oem d27/oem spring setup in our s80. The rig also has 5" CPT shackles all around.

This makes for a perfect stance for us (spring under which won't change), and greatly enhanced the "return-to-center" of the steering to a much more driveable situation.

And the bitch flat tows now likea dream which is a major consideration!
 

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Now that I think of it, I have a set of those shims that came with a set of extended u bolts. If yours are 6 degrees then mine are probably 3-4 degrees, cad plated.
Those center pin bolts look nice. I used 3/8 socket head bolts for pins on the rear after I reamed out the perches to fit.
 
Here's the 6 degree shim package.

Chop the center bolts to length after installation on the rig. That allows for an extra leaf or two if desired, these pins are plenty long for any application.
 

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