Cam lobes not all offset to rotate lifters!?

aeroron

New member
Hi again. My build is a '79 345.
@#$%!!
My new isky 190156 cam does not have all of its lobes offset to ensure the lifters rotate the lifters! This could make a short life for the build. (moving the cam forward .050" it would 'split the difference" and I would loose some offset on the right bank to get a small amount on the left. Not a good idea. Besides, not all eight on the right side are centered, some are just a little offset.)
my original lifters (oem) were flat bottomed (actually slightly concave by .00xx"with wear). The new lifters are flat bottomed johnsons (eptwi ha855). I assume the original IH cam was a flat lobe cam and not a tapered lobe (this is way back in the 70's). Even if the isky is a tapered lobe cam (it's in so I cannot measure it), I would be concerned the taper would be fighting the offset on the offset lobes for lifter turning direction.
I'm including photos and diagrams to help explain.
Please comment--suggestions?
 

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Measure the lifter bore cl on both banks from a common datum and compare them to the cylinder bore. I see a bunch of core shift or machining shift on one bank.

Until you verify the cause don't flame isky. Isky, camcraft, comp etc all use cwc blanks. Cwc is the oldest blank caster in the contry and could be in error but for sure isky has no say on lobe cast in locations.
 
Hi again. This is getting awfully involved. Hope this is not too long a description of what I have. I would like thoughts on fixes, including what I might do that I describe later below.

Apparently the cam/lifter location problem was also one in my original IH engine machining/assembly. I have attached another photo. I put the original oem cam back in and saw that it also had a problem with cam lobe-lifter offset, mostly on the left bank and the most with the 7th lobe (see my newest attached photo.) it appears that all lifters rotated during the approx 100k miles on the engine, but a couple lifters on the left bank showed some odd marking in the center instead of a swirl of circles—probably hesitating in rotation over some periods.

Your point was a good one—I did not really want to let myself think it could be the block. Well…

I checked the engine block as best I can without taking it to the machine shop. I’ve got 24” dial calipers, parallels, mics galore, etc., so I think I can check a lot at least within .010” and for most measurements within .003” or better. (my problem is much greater than my potential measurement error, anyway.) I used the machined face on the block’s front as one datum, and the rear as another datum. The dimensional pattern of the cylinder bores and lifter bores (chain dimensioning from one end) is the same on the right from front to back as the left from back to front, so the lifters’ bore patterns are correct (or at least the same) with respect to the cylinder bores.

However, I also tried to measure the left-to-right side stagger of the cylinder bores (e.g. #1 to #2) and compare that to the stagger of the connecting rods as if they were on the crankshaft. (my measuring error might be just a little more than .010” here.) I got a cylinder bore right/left stagger of ~1.115”. But the connecting rod small end stagger is only 1.030” (the rod small end midpanes themselves are offset from the big end by ~.075”). If the small end of the connecting rods is supposed to be centered in the cylinder bore, then my cylinder bore stagger is off by 1.115-1.030=.085”. If the stagger was made less than 1.115” by shifting the right bank’s bore pattern to the rear, that would put my cam lobes forward of the lifter centers where I think they belong (the left bank the lobes are already good since they are all to the rear of the lifter centers).

What I don’t really know for sure is if the cam bearing locations and front face of the block are the correct distance to either or both cylinder banks. If all was moved forward just a little…well…see my thoughts on a fix below…

if my measurements are even close, knowing this still does not help me. Everything is machined and ready to assemble, but I cannot change the block as it is. To offset lifter bores using sleeves would require a fairly thick wall sleeve by the time a bore was pulled to a new center, and there is not enough metal on the block’s cast bosses on the inside side. (in fact, ironically, my previous photo of the lifter bore centered on the cam lobe is off center to the rear of the cast boss, but the correction would be to shift it even further aft.)

I’m not going to find another block and do this again, so here’s my thoughts on a fix….
(first, this weekend I’ll try to get a measure of the present offset (or lack of) of all 16 lifter bores with respect to the installed isky cam.) then….
1. I can shim the camshaft forward (let’s say .020”) with a matching shim under the cam retainer plate. Some lobes on the left bank are already forward of the lifters a little, some are not. Moving the cam .020” gives me a difference of .040” front-to-back for any left side lifters that were initially centered, and still leaves me with well off-centered lifters on the right bank, even though less so. I’m trying to split the difference without other collateral problems (see below).
2. As for the lifter on the 7th lobe of my isky cam, it will still be very close to centered even after the cam is shifted forward .020”. So, I can grind a little off the edge of the lobe’s surface all the way around, perhaps about .050” wide and a few thou deep on the edge, so its remaining contact surface acts as if it is a little off center of the lifter. (loss of surface should not be a big concern with the low IH valve pressures.) perhaps other lobes couls also get this treatment as needed, but this one is the worst.

As for collateral problems: a .020” forward shimmed cam’s timing gear still would have full contact with the crank gear with .025 to spare (the gears are different thicknesses). The timing cover and fuel pump arm will still have clearance. The cam bearings 2 to 5 should still be ok as is, but the forward cam bearing no longer has its hole aligned perfectly with the forward located cam’s journal hole when the journal hole passes. The forward bearing will be relocated to be flush with the front (it’s now about .020” sub flush) so its hole aligns with the cam journal oil hole. Instead of match drilling the bearing’s oil hole from number 1 crank bearing, I would just die grind the end of the hole in the block where it meets the cam bearing to match the new location of the cam bearing oil hole (not enlargen the bearing hole further). This way the ligament around the cam bearing oil hole is kept as wide as possible to maintain hydrodynamic oiling, and will again fully feed the passing cam journal hole.

Very depressing. I know my thoughts are out of the box, but I need to save the project to make my otherwise beautiful Scout ride go, and certainly don’t want to have lifters that do not rotate.

I would be grateful for any other useful suggestions, or advice on camshaft work to fix this.

Thanks. Ron.
 

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Lots of detail, great!!
Fyi the IH installed cam was also a cwc blank.
Have you run the isky cam you are referencing? Have you measured lobe taper?

I thing shifting the cam say the .020 won't hurt. If you find the lobe cl locations are randomly off you could probably narrow them specifically to enhance rotation. Either will help and put you in a better situation than other wise.
 
Hi again. Did some more work…

no, I have not run the cam. I have not assembled the engine yet—taking one thing at a time when I can get a break from work and other things. It will be a while before I finally run it, since I also have to rebuild the tranny and eventually do a combo startup.

The cam lobes are not tapered, they are straight with faces parallel to the axis. I measured it two ways: squares, and with a .0005”grad indicator carriaged on my lathe.

I would be interested in any comments, suggestions, or any previous related experiences to this effort. Thanks in advance…

*the theory:

picture 01.. I decided to do what I could to modify the cam to get all lobes offset as needed. My diagram in picture 01... Shows my intent.

The “torque contact line” “tc” in my diagram has a torque arm radius measured to the lifter center. (recall your physics: contact force times friction coefficient equals sliding force.) the math all works out to use "tc", or the offset “o”, as a target value to look at for the ‘fix’. As the cam lobe gets narrower, the torque arm for a specific length “torque contact line” gets smaller. However the torque does not get smaller because the contact pressure per inch of total contact line across the lobe will get larger (same force, shorter line). Anyway…

*the setup:

picture 02.. I made a dummy lifter out of pvc fittings with a scribe at the end (shown in photo) and put it through each lifter bore hole with the cam installed. I rotated the cam and marked the lobes with the lifter bore center all around as shown in picture 02… I then measured the width and distance from the edge of each lobe to its scribed line for all the lifters. The lobes for the right bank should be aft of the bore centerlines, and the lobes for the left bank should be forward of the bore centerlines.

I measured lobe width and corresponding local scribed lifter center offset (measuring distance to front/back face) at the lobes’ base circle, lift ramp, nose, and closing ramp for all 16 lobes.

The offsets should be of sufficient amount to rotate the lifters. Many are not (read on…).

*lobe widths and offset results:

as for the new cwc casting, it’s a bit disappointing, although only a little worse than my original cam. My new cam’s lobe widths differed by up to .050” measured at their base circles. In fact, lobe widths varied along each lobe, with the nose as much as .045” narrower than the tip. (btw: things must have changed or slipped: my original 1979 oem cam, also a cwc, had lobes that ran about .020” wider to .600”, and are not offset exactly the same.)

all of the lobes for the right bank were centered aft of their scribed lines, and all of the lobes on the left were forward—as they should be. But there is no cause for a hooray here.

While some were offset as much as .075” (giving me a .150” long contact line difference to rotate the lifter), all but one for the left bank had less than a .030” offset, and two lobes had less than .010” offset !!!!!

*a fix:

shifting the cam forward would improve the left bank offsets, but unfortunately it would be worse for a lobe for the right bank which had only a .035” offset. So, I made a spreadsheet and calculated what the best split would be between removing lobe edge material on all or most lobes and shifting the cam forward.

*limitations to the fix:

picture 03.. This photo shows there is a limit to moving the cam due to lobe-to-opposite bank lifter clearance. Note: the center distance between a right bank lifter and left bank lifter is 0.80”. A lifter is 0.995” diameter, so it should be obvious that in the photo the lobe on the left can only be offset forward, and the lobe on the right can only be offset aft. Particularly if the lobes were as wide as .600” (assuming the nubs on the lobe sides from the forging parting line are ground off). Other limits to camshaft being shifted forward are oil hole alignment between bearings and cam journals, and timing gear meshing.

*the final fix:

picture 04.. I decided to shoot for a “torque contact line” as shown in red in my diagram in picture 01.. Of .095”, which is an offset of .048” for every lobe. By calculation in “splitting the difference” I came up with moving the camshaft 0.015” forward, note that moving it 0.015” increases the “torque contact line” length by .030” on the left bank’s lobes and increases offsets, but decreases offset on the right bank’s lobes by the same amount. See my 0.015” shim in picture 04.. That goes under the camshaft thrust retainer plate.

Picture 05.. I calculated the amount that would have to be removed from the side edge of each lobe to get my 0.095” “torque line” after the camshaft would be shimmed forward. This means some more lobes for the right bank would be ground than if I had not shimmed the cam forward, but it means less would be ground off the lobes for the left bank. The calculation was done for each part of each lobe (base, lift ramp, nose, close ramp). (some of the lobes were cast “wobbly”.)

picture 06.. Here are the lobes with the edges ground away from contacting the lifter. I used an angle air grinder (shown) and a dremel tool to finish the edge smooth. Of course, if the lobes wear considerably, they negate the work. But if I get a successful break-in, I’m not going to worry about the next 150k miles.

*a screw-up:

picture 07.. Oops! (bumped my wrist finishing the very last lobe with the dremel.) and worse, its on the lifting ramp. While I am a bit of a perfectionist, I’m not sure I really want or need to do another cam. The .0015” depth was measured using my .0005” grad dial indicator moving the lathe carriage. Not enough for sliding friction oil support (no hydrodyamics here), but I think I’m going to try to live with it.

What do you think? Do another camshaft? (not)

*a typical result:

picture 08.. Lobe number 7 for the exhaust on cylinder #3 on the left bank had been the worst (less than .010” offset initially). Now it’s .046” offset (.092” “torque contact line” length in red in picture 01 diagram).

Comments? Suggestions? Any previous related experiences?

Thanks.
Ron
 

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Hi all.
It's been a long while since I built and ran my engine rebuild with my home-modified cam to offset the centerlines of the non-tapered isky lobes (about 4000 miles ago now). Soon after break-in I marked every pushrod with a marker, and I used some spare rocker arm covers with windows to look through at the pushrods/lifters to see if they turn. I put clear tape over each window, but had to lift it to see each pushrod because of all the oil. When the engine was running, every pushrod danced a small rotation at every jump (my marks showing a rotation at every lift) for every pushrod. Success! (I tried to Mark the tops of the lifters themselves way down in the bore before I put the covers on, but could not see them well through my rocker cover windows.) I deduce that if the pushrods are turning, then the lifter must be turning. I had been concerned that a lifter could turn but its pushrod might not if its end "settled" in its place in the rocker arm and got stuck in non-rotation. In my case this did not happen.) sure was a lot of oil spitting out my rocker cover windows!
Conclusion: my camshaft mod worked, or at least did no harm. Even the lifter at #3 that originally showed a pattern that indicated a struggle to turn was now in a steady jumping rotation.
By the way, in reference to a comment above, a careful measure of my block at the machine shop shows the block was machined correctly (no fore or aft offset in the lifter bores relative to other features). It is the camshaft lobes that are off. In fact, it turns out my other '79 Scout 345 has the same discrepant cam lobe fore-aft locations. I also noted that the pushrods themselves on my IH engines are not all perpendicular, some are slanted forward (so a strong spring between the rockers on the shaft May be required to keep from bouncing axially).
In any case, I've since attended numerous cruise-in events, and have gone on trips including to the southern scouts at charlotte, nc and the Scout nationals in troy, oh. Runs great!
 
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