Cam Choice

Eagle-Mark

Eagle-Mark

Member
Hi guys,

going to rebuild a 345 in a 1210 pick up with utility bed. Has a 345 four speed. Will be used as daily driver sometimes. Most time will be a tow rig. I read through your cams and you mention one is your favorite! What kind of vavuum does this pull at idle? I'm asking because it will be TBI as well.
 
Without a doubt this one for your usage.

isky performance camshaft for IH v8 engines - International Scout parts

Must be installed at 106 intake centerline (4 deg advanced.)
they are intended to be ground there but it must be verified. Timing sets r1,r2,r3 and after market like clevite are all the same with respect to valve timing even though much opinion exists on line to the contrary.

Don't use decompressed pistons as they will decrease compression and vacuum. I recommend silvo-lites.

Will make 17-18in/hg vacuum at idle 750 rpm in neutral.
 
Pulling valve covers now. Looks like the right band and all moving, push rods are spinning. Goin to check drive saide for the big lifterr tap when hot!

This engine has stamped rockers, arent the other preferable? Interchangable?
 
Not finding much wrong other than no oil up top. Well warm at idle is enough to flow doe=wn the head to rear drain galleries.

Sometimes it just jeems to loose oil presurres and a rocker are starts makeing noise?
 
They May not be one the store pages but Jeff has suppliers for all of the availible engine parts manufacturers. Probably a good time to call the shop.
 
Well we checked the rockers and all valves are working, did a compresion check and all between 120 and 125. But the low oil presure had me worried so we pulled the oil pan and there's what looks like the cam bearings.

So we will be going through the entire engine with the cam specified above.

I know I need a gasket set. Have a good machinist here to set us up. Probably buy the oil pump rebuild kit mentioned in the parts on this site.

What else Jeff? Give me a parts list and price! I know I want one of your clutch fans as well while doing this.

Suggestions? Parts needed? Parts optional but make things better? Your the man! I'm taking all your advice on this one as I have never rebuilt an IH engine before. Built many engines though.

Did I mention I hate rear main seal leaks? :nono:
 
Mark - I really wish I could go in depth with you on what to do but I am way behind in my duties as I was out of town for a week and have a lot of catching up to do. Robert kenney really knows his stuff with these IH engines and will be able to answer all those questions you are asking. I hope you understand.
 
I do understand! :thumbsup:

glad your busy, have a great reputation helps that you know... Btw I placed an order last week and got my part in three days! :thumbsup:

we are still in tear down stages.

I will take advice from him here if he would help me.

But in the end I will call you to place the order and make sure I am getting it right.

I have a great machinist to do any needed work here.
 
eagle-Mark said:
suggestions? Parts needed? Parts optional but make things better? Your the man! I'm taking all your advice on this one as I have never rebuilt an IH engine before. Built many engines though.

Did I mention I hate rear main seal leaks? :nono:
Click to expand...

Really fairly rebuild standard with a few exceptions.
#2 #4 and rear cam bearing install I stress the rear bearing.(good info in gas engine form)

inspect the cam gears and if they show good wear paterns reuse them.

Stock valve train will suffice but I'd go with the springs Jeff sells. Setup @ 80-85 # seat pressure no more unless you intend to zing it past 5000 rpm.

I'd install the black all rubber valve stem seals or umbrellas. Not the new tech pc type.

The big end rod bores can be checked but these IH rods have no cap locating feature and don't rebuild worth a darn. The bearing shells do the locating. I've seen shops screw them up real bad. Mag them and check the small end and check for bending. Stock bolts are fine.


Sealant on the flywheel bolts.

Completely disassemble and inspect the rocker assemblies. Remove the shaft plugs and rod them out.
Other than that standard rebuild practices will work on these mills fine.
 
Thanks Robert! Thats the kind of insider information I was looking for! :thumbsup:

but I am a little confused on this statement:
the big end rod bores can be checked but these IH rods have no cap locating feature and don't rebuild worth a darn. The bearing shells do the locating. I've seen shops screw them up real bad. Mag them and check the small end and check for bending. Stock bolts are fine.
Click to expand...
Sometimes I'm not real brite and don't get it unless I see it...
 
With GM rods etc the big end cap is accurately located by either sleeves pressed into the rod around the threaded hole when bolts are employed or by the stud shank when nuts are used. This is not the case with the IH bolt rod cap. There is no feature built in to the rod to locate the cap accurately unless the bearing shells are installed.

When a machine shop attempts to measure the big end bore there is no way to line up the cap so an accurate measurement can be taken. The rod bolt is necked down and has a super loose fit in the cap by design. So when arp bolts are used that have a normal 3/8 shank the cap will bind on some rod cap holes and not allow proper cap float. This is a major failure mode in building these odd balls. I inspect the rods for the factory hone finish and is the old bearing shows normal wear patterns re-use th rods as is. The bearing id is a function of the rod bore so a engine build measurement can be taken on the new bearings in the rod after torquing with plasti-gage.

Mag and check for straightness and re-install. Don't do a so called rebuild on these rods.

The only reliable measurement you can take on the big end is perpendicular to the cap clamping face...

Next caution regarding the rods during assembly is to use feeler gages between the rod and the crank face to assure that while torquing the cap the rod and cap are aligned properly side to side. I have photos of this operation that I can post later soon as I locate them.

Also don't align bore/hone the main saddles. It will destroy the cam to crank centerline spacing so the timing set will bind. I have custom lapped the gears for this reason when it was unavoidable but it is a major pita.
 
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Wow! :thumbsup:

that's the kind of information I was looking for! :eek6:

I also found your thread on cam bearing install and how the rear cam bearing can cause all sorts of oiling issues if not correctly positioned. I think you mentioned in that thread that .075 difference was critacal.

Unbelivable obuntainable incredible information to me and I have experiance building several differant kinds of engines and never heard or read any manual mentioning these things. (I haven't read the IH manual for this...)

thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! :thumbsup:
 
Very little of the in-depth information provided in these various threads here in this forum are "in the manual". That is why we do this stuff.

None of the information regarding the entire valve train and it's nuances, nothing regarding in depth information regarding the big end and it's disassembly/inspection/renewal re-assembly, etc.

This information comes from years of doing this stuff regarding ihc products combined with several cases where we screw up and have to do learn how to do this stuff correctly. This is not something that just "happens" in the short term as found in some book or online resource.

And we know what kind of issues are faced by the suppliers of parts for these engines also and what we have to do to "correct" for the problems that most folks (including machine shops) will overlook.
 
I wrote a reply to Robert thanking him for his indepth knowedge and sharing but it's gone? Must have forgot to hit submit or something? :nonod: really just another sign my memory is getting old...:icon_eh:

in the missing post I mentioned I had read his rear cam bearing post and how valuble that information is! I also read a 14 page motor build that you were a big part of and can only imagine how many hours you have into the vavle train, espesailly the rockers assemblies etc.. So a personal thank you to you as well.

I apreciate what people do in these comunities and have myself donated thousands of hours of experiance to share with others. Some good, some bad to learn from... :arf:

michael mayben said:
very little of the in-depth information provided in these various threads here in this forum are "in the manual". That is why we do this stuff.

None of the information regarding the entire valve train and it's nuances, nothing regarding in depth information regarding the big end and it's disassembly/inspection/renewal re-assembly, etc.

This information comes from years of doing this stuff regarding ihc products combined with several cases where we screw up and have to do learn how to do this stuff correctly. This is not something that just "happens" in the short term as found in some book or online resource.

And we know what kind of issues are faced by the suppliers of parts for these engines also and what we have to do to "correct" for the problems that most folks (including machine shops) will overlook.
Click to expand...
 
It's not you. Posts in this forum must be approved. Moderators can see the posts and reply but it does confuse things when they forgot to approve the previous post made.
 
I'm glad cause I really thought I was loosing it.

I should have started another thread after asking you company questions... Sorry! :gringrin:
 
Glad we can help and pass these things on to those who will take the time to read.. Kinda unwritten laws. Laws from having these issues our own dam selves. :eek:

we May move this thread in almost it's entirety to the gas engine form.

Here is my torquing routine. This photo op was for representation and the feeler gauges should be across the cap/rod parting line for the rod being torqued at the time. This ensures the cap and rod are perfectly lined up. The gap between the two rods is measured with both rods loose and the tightest gauges selected but still slide for the tightening sequence..
 

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