Bringing a motor out of mothballs

Tonka Toy

Tonka Toy

Member
I have a "good" junkyard motor that I am preparing to install in my Scout 2. After pulling the pan, I found virtually no build-up. So it was either gone through right before it was sidelined, or it was a low milage motor. I'm just going to trust it. But I want to be sure I don't overlook an important step before I drop it in gear and pour the coals to 'er! :lol: help me refresh my memory please. Thanks! :cool:
 
tiny yokum said:
1) pull the plugs and turn it over a few times to make sure there is no liquid in the cylinders.
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Turning over a non-rotated sv motor after a long nap, even slowly by hand, is a sure way to rip the cam bearings right out.
 
Wow! Now that I'm a bit more edgeumakated, I might have to lower the seat to git my big head in the truck. :lol: I realize not that it's not going to be a quick process. :icon_sad: but I'd rather it be a solid engine because it will likely have to get my by for at least this winter, if not longer. As I'm not so sure when I'll get to rebuild the 345. :mad2: after pulling a valve cover (and reading this article), I'm debating about pulling the heads and having them hot tanked. Just to be sure the oil passages are clear as can be, and to check the bores.

My next questions are regarding the oil pan and the accessory drives. First, the dipstick tube is typically mangled and I was wondering if (and how) you could replace it without changing the pan? If nothing else, I can swap the 345 pan onto it, though the dipstick itself is boogered. But at least the tube is ok.

This motor has the two big pullys on it. I'm assuming I can swap the smaller ones from the 345 onto it? Thery're a tad dinged up, as you could imagine froma boneyard engine. And I don't know if the pully speeds would be right. For now I think I'll keep the original timing cover, as it has the oil filler tube attached to it, rather than in the valve cover. I like that alot Better. But it means I can't swap over the a/c bracket from the 345, as this tube gets in the way I think. No problem, as the po removed the pump before I got it, :icon_scream: but it's been hot enough here that I will Be getting that going eventually.

I think I'll use the mayben special thermostat kit I won at the Christmas party for it, and replace the grinding water pump. Now does that big spacer on the pump have to be pulled off with a puller or something? I'd assume it wouldn't be on a new water pump. And is there a high flow version? Anything else I need to know about them? I also May use my good pump from the 345 until I know the motor is good (or the pump dies), since it's still good.

That's all for this mornings brain pickin'. :lol:
 
There are two water pumps -- one for use with the fan clutch (eaton hd modulated / "big nut") and one without (how do I know? -- I got the wrong one a few years ago.).

As far as the pulleys --

the sv engines were externally balanced at the factory -- "using" the flywheel / flexplate and the harmonic balancer (pulley on crankshaft). You should use the pieces from the "new" engine or risk possible "vibration issues".

There are a couple threads (current) talking about getting the "spacing" / "clearance" correct on the water pump when installed to get correct flow. But, there is no "high flow" water pump that I am aware of.
 
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Move all the original sii "bolt-on" stuff to the boneyard motor if it checks out. But why waste time and money if the motor does not test ok?

Water pumps have various hubs depending upon application. Except for the fan hub, the pumps are all interchangeable. The hub is not designed to be removed by a diy deal, the stickout on the hub is set to a specified dimension to provide pulley alignment. New water pumps are cheep...these engines do not have cooling issues until folks start scruuin' with modding the entire cooling system or the internal condition of the engine indicates extreme deposit buildup which inhibits proper coolant flow and heat transfer.

A front-mount oil fill tube indicates a very early sv motor and will have a front-mount dipstick tube also which will not work with an sii oil pan properly. Remove the stick and permanently seal the tube hole, no need to remove it.

The side stick for an sii simply pushes into position in it's fitting with a sealant used to retain inna dedicated sii oil pan. But...you must use an sii oil pump with an sii pan!

There are no oil passages in the heads that need to be cleaned except using elbow grease and verification! That is a simple visual inspection. Ya don't mechanically "clean" heads without total disassembly and dimensional checks.

If the rocker shaft feed holes in the heads are providing oil in sufficient quantity when doing the test I wrote up, then nothing needs to be cleaned! Cleaning is done when ya tear the motor down and rebuild it! And yes, any rocker assembly can be grunged internally no matter how the rest of the engine interior looks.

The pulleys mounted to the crank hub or harmonic balancer (whichever is present) did not calculate into each engine when it was "balanced" on the assembly line. Any engine could have had from one to four hub-mounted pulleys depending upon intended application. But...crank hubs/balancers, flywheels, flex plates, etc. Do figure into the "dedicated" balance issue....as do pistons, rods, etc.
 
tonka toy;17687but it means I can't swap over the a/c bracket from the 345 said:
a sii ac bracket with the front fill oil tube will work with a little persuasion..
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