Brake issue

JohnnyC

JohnnyC

Member
To start off. I have a 76 Scout II, with a 304/727/44/20 combo. Disks in the front. The question is what does it mean when the rear part of the fluid resevior is empty but the front is still full. Im replacing the master cylinder today because theres tons of rust in the empty resevior. The brakes didnt work when I received the Scout.

Thanks, john
 
The rear res is for the rear brakes and the front res is...you guessed it...for the front. The vehicle has a fluid leak somewhere in the rear segment. It's quite likely that one or both of the wheel master cylinders are the culprit. Get the rear of the vehicle safely in the air and remove both wheels. Look for signs of leakage from the wheel cylinders. It will be fairly obvious. Replace as necessary.
 
Which I've done. I believe the rear res leaked all the way out a while ago.
* is it safe to say that I should just replace both rear wheel cylinders when I replace my m/c?
* when I remove the m/c, is it ok to force compressed air through the lines to remove all old brake fluid and any other particle that might be in there or will that possibly cause damage?
 
"generally" on disk / drum setups, one reservoir of the master cylinder is larger than the other.

And, at the risk of being wrong, I believe the larger one is for the disk brakes.

If the empty reservoir is for the rear, the cylinders, backing plate and possibly shoes will show signs of the leaking brake fluid. If the shoes are contaminated, you probably should replace them. Though, I have heard of them being cleaned... If not too "soaked".

You need to check your manual -- I think you need to remove the brake warning light switch to bleed the brakes.
 
Johnny...you are playing with a time bomb that has already partially detonated as a wakeup call.

Halfassin' brake work is not the place to cut corners.

Your entire hydraulic system (brakes) has had moisture in it, everything on the "wet" side is contaminated now, the visible corrosion and empty master cylinder reservoir is simply one of many clues.

The proportioning valve is also most likely contaminated internally, the junction block in the rear brake distribution will be munged, and all the plumbing needs attention.

Ya don't just "blow" shit out, ya replace with new if there is any question whatsoever of internal contamination of any sort.

New or remanned rear drum brake wheel cylinders are too cheap to not simply replace. And the soft hoses in the system are internally rotted also due to "in-service" time and internal contamination. If you piecemeal this deal, you will always be chasing internal shit around, the brakes will fail continuously, and it might be me that you run into.

We're not shittin' ya here, this is not the place to poorboy this brake deal. Any 30+ year old vehicle that's not had the brake system maintained is gonna be in this same condition, this stuff is not designed to last through eternity. Every last piece needs to be removed and inspected for safe use... Or replaced with new.
 
I can definalty attet to that one, mm is right ont he money replace all the hoses from the mc all the way back. It is much cheapre to pend 150 on new line than having to pay for a new vehicle!!!!!!!
 
Thank you guys so much. I honestly would have given up this project if it weren't for the help you guys give. Pure godsends
 
johnnyc said:
thank you guys so much. I honestly would have given up this project if it weren't for the help you guys give. Pure godsends
Click to expand...

Thank you for playing with us john!!

And everything ya need to put your brake system in first class shape is available on the shelf at ihon!

Our goal is help any customer with making the right choices for parts, service, and mods that fit their budget and make sense in the long term/big picture. We've seen way too many folks start out in rejuvenating this old iron and going about it from the wrong direction, that just leads to unnecessary expense many times, along with enough frustration they simply give up and go find some other rig to play with! End result is a worthless pos that is not available to someone else who could use a rig with a "plan"!
 
I have a question about the latest brake fluid available.

Over the years I've tried to flush my lines once every year, I've always used castrol gt/lma.

Now I go to the shelf and the latest castrol lma I can find is "new" and more importantly - synthetic.

Any idea if my old gt/lma will play well with this new synthetic stuff?

:sosp:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top