Best Fuel Tank Cleaning/Coating System

Carl Wiese

Carl Wiese

Member
Suggestions? Looking to do the tanks out of my 74 pickup as gunk in the tanks has been the source of continuing problems with the truck and the rebuilt engine. I am looking for something to do at home, as I don't have the multiple hundreds to do have a shop do it. I think the last set of tanks my Dad did were around 500 for both t'all tanks.

What I am not looking for is "swirl diesel and bb's" and it'll solve all your problems. Looking for a proven system, as I don't want to have this truck as a non-mobile project anymore.
 
I did that about 10 years ago. It works well if you follow the directions!:gringrin: my tank was rusty and had a small pin hole that been patched. I used it as a temporary repair until I could find a better tank. Now I'm too lazy to change the tank.
 
I do use the brass decorative chain (about 10 ft. Length) dropped inside, bb's won't do shit, they are round and totally non-abrasive! Hell, I've even filled mine partially with 3/4 minus basalt from the parking lot, that shit is nice and sharp!

Just shake it 'til ya break it! All around and up and down! I use naptha/paint thinner as the solvent to help with loosening the gum, and about two large cans of berryman's b-12. Then dump it on the weeds in the parking lot so it don't go to waste. Follow up with a powerdouche using detergent of choice.

I never coat the tanks internally, I had tremendously bad experience with several types of coatings years ago when we had to do over 500 motorcycle tanks in the mid-80's. Shit always softened over time and then turned to a solid substance inside the carbs. That's why I refused to coat the inside of ken's ambulance tank a few months ago, it broke his heart but I told him he could do it at his house...but not mine as I didn't wanna be responsible down the line! A leetle light rustdust that forms over time is caught in any decent filter over time.

And this alkigazz shit we're burnin' now is dam sure gonna soften any tank coating currently being sold for consumer use. Ya oughta see what it's doin' to year old carbs right now!
 
Mike,

you bring up an interesting point. My tanks don't leak, so do I need to coat them, or just clean them out? And honestly, how well does the chain method work? I'll be willing to try it, as it seems like it would be an easy and cheap fix, but thats what makes me worry, I don't like cheap and easy and have a hard time trusting it. But I guess it's worth a shot!! And if it doesn't work I am only out time!
 
I've even filled mine partially with 3/4 minus
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Jon and I did that for his powerwagon, it works great! Tip: lash the tank up to the rafters, just a couple of feet off the floor and you can git a nice swinging action; makes it real easy. That rock cuts the crud real good. Remember to take the sending unit out. This only works for tanks with a vent and single point pickup; the more complicated ones like in a t'all that use a syphon type setup, maybe not so good.
I use naptha/paint thinner as the solvent to help with loosening the gum, and about two large cans of berryman's b-12. Then dump it on the weeds in the parking lot
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Wooo, hope them eugenie-types don't know that or you'll have a hazmat team out yonder real quick!
 
I can't tell ya carl. My '71 1210 has a pancake tank, but it's as basic as tanks get. I know on my t'all, and others like jd's and Rich's, there's some internal plumbing so there's fuel delivery at all ride angles of the rig. Even after thorough cleaning, they still had crud issues.
 
greg r said:
I can't tell ya carl. My '71 1210 has a pancake tank, but it's as basic as tanks get. I know on my t'all, and others like jd's and Rich's, there's some internal plumbing so there's fuel delivery at all ride angles of the rig. Even after thorough cleaning, they still had crud issues.
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Hmmm.......which tanks on jd's and Rich's were cleaned, the underfloor or the rear tank in the fenderwell? Also, pancake tank?
 
Pancake, just some slang I picked up. Means longer,wider, than high; as opposed to the more vertical ones like in a cab.
 
Carl, your tank should be pretty simple if it is the one under the floor board. I have had mine out several times. I second the por-15 product for lining it.
 
michael mayben said:
I do use the brass decorative chain (about 10 ft. Length) dropped inside, bb's won't do shit, they are round and totally non-abrasive! Hell, I've even filled mine partially with 3/4 minus basalt from the parking lot, that shit is nice and sharp!

Just shake it 'til ya break it! All around and up and down! I use naptha/paint thinner as the solvent to help with loosening the gum, and about two large cans of berryman's b-12. Then dump it on the weeds in the parking lot so it don't go to waste. Follow up with a powerdouche using detergent of choice.
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Mike,

can you translate this out of texan and into stupid kid? Do you mean like laundry detergent, clenser or dishwasher detergent?
 
No...use a powerwasher or take it up to the car wash and powerblast it out.

I'm now using that "purple" degreaser/detergent in my powerwasher for everything. Wash down the shop doors, wash down the decks (after spraying with a bleach solution), wash the concrete surfaces, wash all vehicle components before teardown, etc. It'sa concentrate so the actual usage will depend upon the type of power washer you May use.

Home depot carries it, even our local wallyworld. Very much the same stuff as simple green but works better on really nasty stuff.

After draining all the water out, then put a pint of plain old isopropyl alkeehole in the tank and slosh, that will absorb any residual moisture, then dump that too and the remnants will evaporate real quickly, then seal all the penetrations (duct tape) until you are ready to connect each hose in turn.

Someone needs to a "sealed tube" test of cured por15 with e10 alkeegazz...I betting you will see softening/deterioration after two weeks immersion. Coat a piece of clean sheetmetal, cure it according to instructions, and immerse the piece inna quart jar of e10 and leave it alone (don't remove lid). Let's see what happens real world.

The fuel supplies that have gone into distribution in the last 90 days is not the same old shit we've been running for the last few years since the last times the feds scruud the stuff up. It ain't just about kalifornikate or oreegone, it's everywhere.
 
Thanks for the clarification Mike!! I am not going to coat it at this point, it doens't leak, so there really is no point. Just going to give a good wash out and go from there.
 
I was able to stick my camera up to the filler hole and got some great shots with the flash on, I could see inside the tank way better, then with a light and eyeball thats for sure.

Found my tank was is great shape, once I dumped out all the crap that was in there. I mean how do you get leaves, berries and other organic matter in your tank anyways:icon_eh:

you could toss in some navy jelly too. You need to clean it out even if you use the por 15 gas tank coating. I'm with Mike, unless it was summer and you could let the tank bake in the sun for a month before you put gas in it.

Edit.. Find a paint shaker and set the tank on that! Alos if you could fine a barrel big enough you could boil the rust out. rust removal from steel
 
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Well, I dropped the tank and found rust!! Rust all over every surface I can see! So, I don't think just a cleaning is going to do, I am going to have to coat it as well.

Carl
 
Craig said:
you still need to get back to bare metal before sealing. So soap, rocks and chain are not a bad idea, as a mechanical cleaning idea.

I found this but have not used it, so it just a goggle product at this point. $59 for a 3 step system.

auto gas tank sealer kit - gas tank sealer - better than kreem - kbs coatings


Edit... I guess you could do the battery charger trick using a kids pool.
Electrolytic derusting
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I ordered a kit from por-15 it comes with everything I need to clean and coat the tank, including dealing with the rust. I'll post up some pics later of what I found.
 
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