BD 264 issues

D

deepweasel

New member
Michael,started to work through my ignition issues today. Points are pitted, will be getting new ones. The distributor # is 1112416 and I'm not sure which points I need. A part # would be good, the local napa guy has some issues finding stuff for anything that is pre 87 let alone a harvester. After filing the points it definitely ran a little better but it seems to be burning them a little? A new set of wires are coming. What are the chances that the cap on the delco distributor would be the same as the one I use on my 235 Chevy I have an extra new one. If it isn't then again a part # would be nice. The advance works fine and the canister doesn't seem to leak. Here is a photo of the distributor and a couple of the engine and one of the vehicle. Thanks again for the carb help. For just a moment or two today she ran really fine, it will be nice to hear that on a regular basis. I have a dwell meter which I have never used perhaps you could be so kind as to give me some idea how to go about that.
 
Since you have the 235 chev available, I'd verify with a visual that the two distributors are basically the same series. My information tells me they are, though they are not interchangeable of course.

In standard motor parts numbers, the following are correct for the ihc 264 (as well as the 235 chev):

cap: dr428
rotor: dr308
points: dr2227p
condenser: dr50

and the initial point gap spec for your delco p/n 1112416 would be 0.019".

A generic dwell meter connection would be...one of the designated leads (most likely black) goes to an engine ground. The other test lead (usually green or red) goes to the negative (-) terminal on the ignition coil since we are reading the "trigger" signal right off the breaker point insulated contact. Some stand-alone dwell meters have an internal dry cell battery power supply. Some dwell meters require no internal or external power to operate. Some dwell meters require a connection to the vehicle battery for power, along with a connection for the dwell reading of the coil terminal.

The dwell reading is a graphical display of the number of degrees of point cam rotation in which the breaker points are closed for each firing event for each cylinder. So an initial point gap of 0.019" results in a dwell reading of 28>35 degrees. I like to shoot for the middle of the range. Increasing the point gap decreases the dwell reading.

If you look up the same specs for the 235 chev you will find the same information...only difference would be the amount of advance built into the chev distributor vs. The 264, and the base timing spec.
 
Michael, new points, wires, cap, and rotor. Went for short drive and I am still experiencing some backfire. Took it carefully up to 45-50 mph and as long as I am gentle with the throttle the old girl gets there. How ever under hard acceleration,wot, there is a noticable backfire and hesitation. There is a little side to side movement in the distributor when you wiggle it from the cap is this affecting my timing? Or have I got another issue. Is it possible that I still have a fuel issue like maybe the float is set to high? Also the currently installed plugs are champion rj14yc and I am told they should be champion j8c, is this having an effect or are the plugs acceptable as the are? I must say however that the replacement of all those part has made it run almost normal and at idle it sounds and runs perfect.
 
My data is showing an autolite #85 plug being the correct heat range for the six bangers, same plugs as used oem in the v8 engines. That heat range does cross over to the rj14yc champion which was oem back in the day...the "r" in the champion number means "resistor" plug (has an internal resistor segment for rfi suppression).

edit: I mispoke when I said I'd never use a "resistor" plug". What I meant to say is...I'd never run a "booster gap" plug which is often confused with the resistor plug design. Those items are still pout in the marketplace though I believe they were phased out of production beginning in the early 90's. Sorry if I led anyone astray! I was in the midst of an email exchange where we were discussing the old booster gap plug design and I simply carried the thought right over to the forum post!

Keep advancing the ignition timing a bit at a time and see if the engine doesn't respond.

Backfire through the carb and the hesitation under load could be caused by the float level being set too low! On those carbs, if the float is even a hair too high, liquid fuel will spill through the vents and flood the engine.

Also...do you remember what main jet is screwed into that fresh main well right now? In the past, someone May have jetted it way lean trying to compensate for the economizer valve that was leaking and creating an over-Rich condition. Now...if the main jet is too small, hesitation/surge and backfire will occur from lean condition. I see this "jet compensation" attempt in nearly every 1904 carb I get in for repair!!!

The standard main jet for that carb/engine combo should be a either a #63 or 64 (really doesn't matter). The jet in that carb is exactly the same pattern/thread size as the Holley jets sold at any auto parts that carries Holley performance items.
 
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Today I increased the fuel level in the carb a little and spent an hour and a half driving up and down the road messing with the timing. I advance it slowly and it seemed to help but did not stop all the hesitation and it still backfires under load but it is better. I cannot advance the timing further than I have the idle quality began to suffer so I had to back it off a little. I will maybe increase the fuel level some more after that I am unsure how to proceed.
 
Sounds like you are "there" in regards to the timing issue, you experienced just what I knew would happen and you delt with it accordingly!

I know this is getting old...but you are also learning how to tune this stuff and deal with issues that are somewhat unique to these vehicles/engines! So...raise the fuel level just one more tick and try again. If doing that makes no difference in correcting the popping under load, then go up in main jet size by two steps. So if you currently have a #65 installed, go to a #67. If obtaining that item is a pita for ya, let me know and I'll send ya one!
 
It never gets old I love this shit. You on the other hand have probably answered these questions a million times. I belong to a couple of forums and must say that this one (you) always has helpful and immediate responses. The time and patience required must be enormous. I will try and get a main jet this morning while I'm in the city but will raise the fuel level one more time before I put it in.
 
Hello micheal, I got a new main jet which is installed and it seems to have solved maybe half of the problem. Up to maybe 40 mph all is well then the problem begins,or if you really put your foot in it. At five bucks a pop I thought that maybe I would get the next two jet sizes up from the # 67 that I put in and try them to see if it eliminates my problem all together. Is this a reasonable course of action or does it sound to you like another issue somewhere else.
 
deepweasel said:
hello micheal, I got a new main jet which is installed and it seems to have solved maybe half of the problem. Up to maybe 40 mph all is well then the problem begins,or if you really put your foot in it. At five bucks a pop I thought that maybe I would get the next two jet sizes up from the # 67 that I put in and try them to see if it eliminates my problem all together. Is this a reasonable course of action or does it sound to you like another issue somewhere else.
Click to expand...

Certainly play with the main jet if you experienced some improvement!

I never asked...what is your basic operational altitude there...and is the fuel you folks run an alcohol blend such as the e10 crap we are forced to use down here? If so...I'm normally now increasing any Holley carb main jet(s) two steps if the carb is forced to run e10, that is based upon whatever the oem main jet spec for the carb application is.

But...that is based upon a sea level-to-3,000ft. Operational range...but should hold true for any normal altitude though I've got no direct experience with the 1904 in that regard right now. One of our customers is operating a fresh 1904 from ihon at altitudes from 5k>8kft. Now in the yellowstone area and is very satisfied with performance.
 
Hello micheal it has been a while since I posted, thought I would bring you up to date on my bd264. Since I last posted I have had to replace the fuel pump which was a little weak and causing some of my issues. I have also gone to #68 main jet in the Holley and it now seems to work just fine with that jet and the new fuel pump. Also had to replace the water pump and the clutch slave cylinder but the old girl is now my daily since May 10th of this year and has been running just fine. I should also mention that we are using an 89 octane regular fuel with 10% ethanol added you asked about that in a previous post that is our regular fuel these days unless you want to spend $1.45 a litre for the premium. Thanks for all your help and advice I will always mention this forum if anyone is looking for parts or advice about their International. Just bought another one at auction a couple of weeks back($60) May need some more help in the not too distant future.
 
Thanks for the followup on this issue! It's always helpful to know what steps are taken to correct an issue(s) and how we address 'em!

So you folks have exactly the same issues we have down here regarding the only fuel we can purchase...until all the politicians are replaced by something with a collective brain, it's only going to get worse.
 
I love being in id... I can still go down to some gas stations here and get fuel with no ethanol and it doesnt cost me an arm and a leg.
 
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