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Uncle Mike

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Made it back from my first obdr. Had to take off a couple of days early because the metering block on the 2300 warped and was spewing gas. Apart from that and setting the truck on fire, I had a great time.
But I have to tell you, colin and phil seem to have a knack for finding some of the coldest places to sleep in June. I woke up one morning to the sound of crunching sheets of ice on my sleeping bag.
But they are very handy with fire extinguishers. There was a team effort to putting mister beast back on the road after the 6 foot flames burst forth from the engine compartment. Only took an hour, and ran a bit better after being toasted.
Best truck fire ever was what phil said.
I gotta tell you, I am impressed with what the 44 year old truck could take on. Other then the carb, everything else hung together great.
On a personal note, I did get some pit rot on the starboard side, so if you plan to go some time, remember there is a lack of washing facilities so bring some rash grease.
 
Glad you had fun!

Is this the carb I built for ya three years ago??? Holley metering blocks don't "warp"!!! No way! Unless they are hit with a hammer or rock when trying to redneck unstick a float needle. But then...that carb was a butchered "factory reman" when I got it, if it was gonna leak, it would have done so as soon as ya installed it.

Bring it to the bee, all carbs I do carry a lifetime warranty to the original owner, shit... I'll even cover damage caused by e10 contamination which is your government's fault.
 
It was highly unexpected as it had never leaked in the past. Thanks for the offer Mike, I will haul its sorry butt to the bea.
 
I've reviewed the worksheet for that carb that you received from me as an invoice.

It was built with a gflt (green) accel pump which is the item we use for alcohol carbs and now for most rebuilds running on e10.

The main jet set up is a pair of #65 (not stagger jetted) and the power valve is a #55 picture window. I also installed a power valve blowout preventer in that carb body.

The metering block is a #2535 and that must be the metering body to use on that carb. I have one of those on the desk here right now. I'm going to prep it with gaskets and everything needed to replace on-site so we don't have to mess with shipping...curb service.

But...I promise, the problem with liquid overflow is not a distorted metering body. It was assembled on May 1, 07. Don't know how long it set with fuel inside non-run on your end since then.

The most likely cause of fuel overflow (if you have adequate fuel filtration before the carb inlet) is that the nitrophyl float has been hit with the "e-10 rot" disease, it's absorbed fuel and gotten heavy in a very slow fashion over time and the fuel level in the bowl cannot be controlled in a stable manner. Re-adjusting the fuel bowl level while observing through the window May improve the situation, but it's still gonna be broke. Replacing the float is the fix, then re-set the fuel level while running to correct for the replacement float.
 
Update regarding uncle Mike's carb....

The nitrophyl float had absorbed fuel over time...making it a non-floater. That results in an un-controllable fuel level in the fuel bowl. The excess fuel will escape the bowl through a vent hole underneath the air horn on the top of the metering body. Not all Holley metering bodies have that hole, some do, some don't, there are several "vent" points on any carburetor.

The metering block is not warped in any fashion and I'll use it on another carb at some point. These metering blocks do not "seal" based upon the flatness of their perimeter, but rather the compression of the proper gaskets being used and the condition of the seal ring cast into the metering body itself.

Uncle Mike now has the replacement parts on hand.

You can thank your government for creating the conditions to allow this little episode to occur....this was not the result of any design or performance issue on the part of the Holley 2300! I guess the government thinks that if we won't voluntarily turn this old shit in for a voucher for a government motors corp. Volt pos, then they'll just help 'em go through meltdown.

I say...let the insurance companies go after the "administration" for creating a hazardous situation and enabling engine fires! They will get right on that after they turn their customers over to the national socialist medical insurance corp., an arm of fannie mae.
 
Finally got the gas line leak solved, so I was able to test the system.
Turned on the fuel pump for about 3 minuets, and checked for leaks. Nothing to be seen.
Was also able to start the pickup, and it ran without monumental issues.
I did find a large split in the insulation of the #7 spark plug wire, and I think #1 has had it also. As there was a fire I think a new set up plugs and wires is in order, as well as a new battery cable.

Thanks for everything Mike, another IH mystery solved.
 
uncle Mike said:
finally got the gas line leak solved, so I was able to test the system.
Turned on the fuel pump for about 3 minuets, and checked for leaks. Nothing to be seen.
Was also able to start the pickup, and it ran without monumental issues.
I did find a large split in the insulation of the #7 spark plug wire, and I think #1 has had it also. As there was a fire I think a new set up plugs and wires is in order, as well as a new battery cable.

Thanks for everything Mike, another IH mystery solved.
Click to expand...

Electric fuel pump??? That is why the flames were fed!

And are ya sure the electric pump has the correct outlet pressure setpoint incorporated? You need to rig a permanent fuel pressure regulator and gauge in the plumbing in order to monitor! That carb should have no more than 6psi inlet pressure.
 
Yes, electric, but key operated. I checked the pressure a long long time ago, and it rides about 4-5 psi.
I have a mechanical that I hope will fit. The problem is the 266 has a motor mount in a spot the 304 does not.
I would be replacing it this morning, but I am off getting hay.
 
If it ain't one thing its another.
Got the all the other leaks stopped, but it looks like the truck picked on a root and the root picked back. Developed a hot weather leak in the gas tank. Opened the gas cap and all leaking stopped.
Search and locate and jb weld.:mad2:
 
Re electric fuel pump

fwiw,

I had an electric pump put on a corvair many years ago --

the mechanic wired the pump thru a non-stock oil pressure switch which turns off the fuel pump if the engine has no oil pressure -- as a safety "feature"...
 
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