Back country trail project

[brained]

So this is going to be a slow build (working within spouse approved budget) of a trail/expedition style rig. Think of heading up into the trees for a couple weeks at a time on old abandoned logging roads or running the obdr comfortably.

These were originally posted on the bulletin so this one post covers about a years worth of other misc posts that I'm just now getting to.

Definitely going with a cargo rack on top. I'd like to tie it to an internal cage so the rack can remain even if the top is off. Not really heavy duty since I'm sprung over and don't want to get my cog to high by loading spare tires, water, etc up there.

Pics as it is now (spring 2009):

Here's the status as of this spring:

new brake pads, rebuilt slave cylinders, new front u-joints, new cap/rotor/plug wires, couple new brake lines, new tires (30x9.5 for now). One new electric wiper, led tail lights, cleaned up the speedometer with led backlighting/indicator lights (being able to see the turn signal indicator during the day is really nice!). Somebody already put in an alternator - I'm getting the pulley properly shimmed up. New electric fan. Po put in a rear d44 - 4.27's.


And here's the Scout getting outflexed by a Jeep on coils. We'll be doing something about that.

This to go along with it when the time comes but I'm working on turning this:

Into this:

Bulkhead cut out. Left a 3/4 lip, folded over and welded. In retrospect I'd have cut it closer to flush and then welded and ground it down. The 3/4 lip along the floor I think I will keep up though - keeps the 64oz cokes from flooding under the front seats.

New seat belts in too, hopefully it'll keep my son from bonking his nose on every water bar (maybe a few more serious things too).

Now to do something about the latex paint/carpet glue rust preventive coating the bed.

got some nasty brake lines:

All better now. Put some hard plastic tubing over the lines and clamped them to the axle. No metal to metal contact, no vibration, no wiggling. This is before a cleaning with simple green to get the brake fluid off.

 

[brained]

And some more:

also took the wire wheel to some of the latex coated interior parts and cleaned them up. Just primer for now, after it quits snowing I'll paint them to match the dash.

Also installed a new valve cover gasket, doesn't seemed to have slowed the seep from the engine at all though.

Managed to get your door hinge screws out? Mangled/ruined/welded them in the process?

Don't pay $40 for replacement screws and washers!

fastenal part#33773
And
fastenal part#24274

X24 will cost you $15 including ups ground shipping.

Fedex deliveries,
polyarmour steel lines, fuel filters for the dual tanks, and a new steel filler tube for the left side. If it works well I'll get one for the drivers too. $24 for a steel filler tube seems like a better deal than $89 for a rubber one.

Ah yes, the dash screws. I didn't even fool with them. I grabbed a drill bit slightly smaller than the threaded portion of the screws and just punched them out. After the bit cut through the head the threaded part spun with the drill and fell out the back. Took all of 10 mins to get rid of them.



So last week the clutch started doing this thing where it didn't want to completely disengage. It developed slowly over 3 or 4 days.

Last weekend I drained the fluid and put a new seal in the slave. Worked great after that and figured it was resolved. Today it's progressively getting worse. Checked the obvious things - plenty of fluid, clutch pedal travel is good, clutch pedal is firm.

I did a quick test by putting it in gear, fully engaging the clutch pedal (the vehicle wants to move a little) and then holding it to see if the pressure is leaking down over time (just a couple minutes) and causing it to progressively engage. Didn't seem to make a difference so I'm guessing the problem is not a bad seal in either the master or slave cylinder. I admit that's not a real test like using a pressure gauge but it was a place to start.

The obvious solution is to adjust the clutch and I see where to do that - the slave is bolted down tight but the assembly it's attached to has an adjustment screw? Edit: ok, looks like that's just a stop for the fork - guess I'll have to pull the cover and start checking tolerances.

I also know that adjusting the clutch can mask the real problem and hasten a total failure (bent a fork in my subaru once)


since my throw-out bearing is going out I've gone ahead and picked up a donor Scout. 66 800 152/t18/d20 - d27/d44. Solid frame, haven't pulled the carpet up yet but no rust on the rockers, etc.

Here in a couple weeks I'll pull the t18 out in preparation of swapping it in. Hopefully the input hole will be the larger size on my d18 and will bolt right on. Worst case I'll do the guts swap into the d20 but I really want to keep the od option.

I'm think of going with the mechanical clutch since the hydraulic setup seems to be getting more difficult to find/maintain.


Summer 2009:
made a quick trip out to a local reservoir with my son last weekend.

Not wheeling like rock crawling but still fun.

Why is it that it never looks as steep in pictures?

Sage brush grows tall here.

No laughing - here's my rig for cleaning fuel tanks:

And this just last week:
updates.

Bent a tie rod bad- surprisingly not by bashing against something but by having one wheel against the side of the mountain and then turning the steering wheel into the mountain (12 point turn on narrow road). Replaced it with the one from the '66 and then bent it a little somewhere out in the rocks - same thing I guess. The manual steering May take a little arm effort to turn but there's no lack of power getting to the wheels!

Pulled the diff covers - new seals and new oil. Found this in the rear:

Put 4ozs of lsd fluid in it - what's the specified capacity?

Then did just shy of 600 miles out thru the blm deserts near riley and wagontire last week and came up with a couple todos - straighten the tie rod and temporarily beef it up to hold until a 44 gets put in, rebuild/replace the carb, swap in the fuel tanks from the '66, and install the rear j**p seat I picked up.

 

[ihpartsjeff]

Don't pay $40 for replacement screws and washers!

fastenal part#33773
And
fastenal part#24274

X24 will cost you $15 including ups ground shipping.

Your post has been edited to remove the link to a competing business. We have these screws available as well plus you can support the business that pays for this forum - replacement door hinge screw for Scout 80/800 - International Scout parts

Good luck with your build. Looking good so far.

 

[brained]

So here's a couple weeks worth of stuff.

Figured out why my fuel sender wasn't working:

I swapped in a good sender off the new donor and will put a float on this one for the 2nd tank.
I think I'll add a set of mechanical gauges below the dash to complete it.


Picked up this with the intent of swapping it's t18 in place of my t90, after pulling dixie pass and tipton mt with a weeks fuel and water I'm discovering the gap between 2nd and 3rd is just too big. Aside from that dent in the door and missing glass it's pretty solid. Maybe a future candidate for a 4bt swap?

I followed this thread Which lead to this thread And installed the new gauges. I did swap the faces to keep the look the same. I also scraped the orange off of the needles so they would be white. It looks kinda cool cause the needles have a diamond shaped cross section so the top needle reflects the red led light from just half and the the bottom needle reflects it from the opposite half. The h and the c are reversed but I'm the only one who drives it.

Carb's leaking fuel onto the heat shield and has started backfiring when compression braking. Mr. Mayben sent out a proper rebuild kit for the 1904 and we'll walk thru the rebuild online here somewhere. Separate thread or this one michael?

 

[Michael Mayben]

Start a new thread for your carb rebuild.

We have new floats for those fuel tank sending units that use the barrel-type float. But test the sender first so ya don't waste cash on a float for a sender that is ng!

As for the clutch release, dealing with the hydraulics is actually far simpler than trying to rig any type of mechanical release on one of these bellhousings.

What has happened is that your clutch throwout fork has worn down along with the throwout bearing collar. All the clutch throwout travel is being "absorbed" by major amount of wear present. We have reconditioned components available that can repair that:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/new-products-IH-only/1862-Scout-80-clutch-components.html

Were also working on a new mount for the clutch slave that will solve the "angle of the dangle" engineering that IH built into that clutch release. When combined with a new set of wilwood clutch master and slave set and a braided jacket connecting hose, clutch release problems will never occur again on a Scout 80!

 

[brained]

Both senders test close to the proper range (8 to 77 ohms and 11 to 80 ohms), I'll snag the float off the bad sender and stick on the good one.

I'm pulling the tranny tonite or tomorrow nite and will get it broke down to see if it needs just a seal kit or a rebuild kit.

The only thing that's had me leaning toward the mechanical linkage is the thought of poking a pole or stick or some such thing up into that cylinder or the line. Will the slave cylinder relocate be ready in a few weeks? Can I do the update And then the slave cylinder relocate or should I wait and do it all at once?

 

[Michael Mayben]

The clutch slave relocation deal won't be ready soon...I have some of the pieces cut out now but not fitted to an actual vehicle yet. And these will use the "two ear" slave, not the clamp-on version, though it will be possible to use the clamp-on version by drilling additional holes.

Idea is to make this slave system far more rigid than the oem design, and to make the pushrod travel in a straight line.

In this thread, you will find a similar deal I'm doing (when time allows) involving swapping in a t18 and pancake bellhousing from a four speed Scout 800. The clutch release has been "flopped" and the slave bracket will mount to the lower section of the tranny and push in a straight plane so that clutch pedal action is linear:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/transmission-tech/911-Scout-80-t18-four-speed-swaperoo.html

All my personal projects take forever as I have way too many and can't seem to home in on any one!

If you pull the trans, you will be easily able to see if the clutch release fork/collar/pivot on yours is botched. Then no matter what ya end up doing about actuation, that needs to be fixed. The "upgrade" deal I'm talking about will be strictly a bolt-on replacement for an oem s80 clutch release if the fork/collar/bearing/pivot is ok to re-use, it won't repair one that has those issues though! And fabbing a longer pushrod for the slave cylinder now is a bandaid that will make the situation worse!

That entire oem clutch release system on the hydraulic side of the s80 is a girling (british) system developed post wwii. It was designed for a proper clutch release on many british and euro-vehicles back in the day and worked ok if fed a diet of "special" girling fluid. We have no idea why IH used that crap...but if not fed the special fluid, the rubber in the cylinders would rot away quickly! When we rebuild 'em today, the kits we use are designed for plain old dot 3 fluid so that's not issue. But...the "travel" of the slave does not "match" the travel of the master given the geometry that IH designed into the system. The cylinder bores do match correctly.

 

[brained]

the clutch slave relocation deal won't be ready soon...I have some of the pieces cut out now but not fitted to an actual vehicle yet. And these will use the "two ear" slave, not the clamp-on version, though it will be possible to use the clamp-on version by drilling additional holes.

Idea is to make this slave system far more rigid than the oem design, and to make the pushrod travel in a straight line.

In this thread, you will find a similar deal I'm doing (when time allows) involving swapping in a t18 and pancake bellhousing from a four speed Scout 800. The clutch release has been "flopped" and the slave bracket will mount to the lower section of the tranny and push in a straight plane so that clutch pedal action is linear:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/transmission-tech/911-Scout-80-t18-four-speed-swaperoo.html

All my personal projects take forever as I have way too many and can't seem to home in on any one!

So you're not relocating it up higher on the bellhousing? Just correcting the alignment?

I know how the "all my projects" thing goes. This 97f heat isn't motivating me too well either.

 

[Michael Dimock]

For your t-18 4 spd swap, hydraulic is the way to go in my opinion. I had already bought all new parts, so why waste my money when I could make it work..... when you're out on the trail, binding issues won't be an option if you're off camber as would be with the mechanical linkage. The 4 spd shifts the clutch from the top, so not much is in the way to get ripped off/damaged. All I used was a little creativity (or ingenuity should I say?), some scrap metal, hand drill, and my 110v hobart welder. Since my trans was out, I bolted it to one of my spare 152's and went to work measuring. I ended up making my own pushrod out of an IH head bolt. I ground the head portion flat and drilled the appropriate hole. Just make sure you use a lock nut when connecting the push rod to throwout rod. Mine came off and I discovered it when I was yanking my engine out for rebuild.... that could have ended badly if the bolt fell out.... Oh, and don't worry, the bracket got painted IH red!

 

[Michael Dimock]

Oh, for this, you'll need to cut a hole in the firewall/tranny tunnel to allow the clutch fork full movement as it will hit it on full extension. You also might have to modify the tranny tunnel to fit it as it is a lot bigger than the 3 spd..... I had to as I have a warn od, pto adapter, and pto going in, so my running gear package will be quite long.... Just need to get the warn od one of these days when my Scout's 196 is finally rebuilt!

 

[brained]

That's slick michael d. The pics are just what I needed.

I've got no scrap metal around here and need to go buy or scavenge some for this. Thickness? Type?

Starting the carb rebuild here.

 

[brained]

Ongoing carb work at the above thread, some interior painting (I'm really liking rustoleoum's hammered black), a k-source truck mirror in black, and tailgate lettering (in reflective black) from Scoutco products home. Looks like it's going to end up with a red body, white top, and black trim.

With flash:

And without flash:

Without flash:

And with:

 

[brained]

Here's the mirror, it's a k-source universal truck mirror in black part #h3721b.

The bracket is great, it has a hinge on the top portion to allow it to align with the slope of the vehicle. The bracket rotates into 3 positions, in the pictures it's in the farthest back position since the doors are off. After putting the doors on I'll probably move it to the middle or forward position to keep it from interfering when opening the door. Two positions to mount the mirror to the bracket. Inside for now but one could put it all the way out if one were towing or such things.

The mirror it self is ok - abs plastic maybe? I'd like sturdier but it's not bad. Easy to replace if it gets busted.

 

[brained]

Midway thru the t90 to t18 swap. Going full mechanical linkage for now, I'll work on incorporating the hydraulic like michael d has done as time permits.

New pilot bearing, new throwout bearing. It looks as though the collar on both is identical, however the output shaft on the t90 is quite a bit smaller than the t18. Since it didn't fit snug the collar was moving unevenly somewhere along it's travel and rotating forward out of plane and rubbing on the output shaft. The shaft seems to have held up well but the center of the collar is quite oblong at the bearing end.


Two questions:

are the 4 cylinders internally balanced and thus the flywheels are interchangeable? I've read on different forums yes and no.

For the new cross member bracket I'm thinking a piece of angle iron with gussets on each end. How thick should the angle iron be? 1/8, 1/4?

 

[brained]

Here is the transmission crossmember bracket on a 66. Notice the set of bolt holes for the shorter t90 and then the bolted in crossmember for the t18. No such thing for the older one. I'm getting a bracket fabbed up on the 63 to support the t18 crossmember.

Click to enlarge.

 

[brained]

Swapping flywheels, do the flywheel bolts penetrate clear through the crankshaft and thus need to be sealed when put in? Or is all the oil in the threads from the leaking main seal?

 

[Robert Kenney]

Yes, the bolts are open ended and will leak if not properly sealed. Any commercialy availible sealer intended for threads will work. I like arp's white sealer/lube best.

Clean all oil fron crank threads before assembly.

 

[brained]

Rear seal in without incident. Flywheel, clutch, linkage, transmission, transfer case, and crossmember in without trouble. Pretty much a bolt in deal, lots of time wire wheeling and painting. Waiting for some shortened driveshafts to go back to daily driver status.

Probably the only thing of note is it would be a good idea to put new body bushings in first - if your old ones are only 1/8 thick like mine that extra inch or so will be a big help.

After I finished the carb rebuild a couple weeks ago I put in a new fuel filter along with it. Drove it for three or four days and then shut it down for the trans swap. During those couple weeks my fuel filter melted! Discovered while I was watching the carb for overflow and turning the key for the first time after the trans was in.

 

[brained]

So the steel top was a little rough. Surface rust, leaking thru the seams, etc. There had been some type of roof rack that had been removed and the holes filled with rubber plugs. It was already raining and the snow was coming soon so I needed a way to get it sealed and ready for heavy use this winter. The 'correct' way would have been sanding, welding, priming, painting, etc, etc. Time and welding skills were lacking so a temporary measure was needed.

I wire wheeled everything loose or rusty. Special attention paid to the drip edge, it was scrubbed to bare metal.

Primer over the bare metal and anywhere the rust had been scrubbed away. Weatherstrip adhesive was forced into the seams. Body seam sealer probably would have been the ideal choice but it's what I had on hand and had worked for other similar things. Made sure the adhesive went into the seams and none on the surface.

A trip to bi-mart provided a gallon of an elastomeric rv roof coating (stretches up to 300% !). sta-kool brand. Rolled it on with a roller and used a brush for the edges and corners. It took multiple coats to get good coverage.

Looked pretty decent to start with. Any rust that was missed by the primer bled thru. I think is was just a rust stain blooming thru and not actually more rust.

So now it's months later and it's been covered with snow and rain and driven thru nasty heavy brush.

Here's the drip edge which has taken a beating from roadside brush. You can see some of the texture on the top too. Some of that texture is ice, it was 10f when I took the picture.

Here's the interior. I haven't done around the interior edges yet.

It was cheap.
It was easy to do.
The roof hasn't leaked a bit, even around the rubber plugs.
The paint hasn't scratched (even with the brush scraping it), peeled, or bubbled.
The noise has subsided considerably. It still bangs a little but no longer sounds like a snare drum.


I snagged a electric valve out of a Ford pickup and set it up so that each tank has it's own filter. Right tank feeds in from the right, left tank from the bottom, and fuel pump on the left. I'll clean up the wires and plumbing a bit when it gets above freezing.

 

[brained]

Not a lot posted lately, just bombing around and enjoying the Scout.

Changes are afoot though, I've accepted a position with a manufacturing company out of fruitland, id.

That means baker city to fruitland and back once a week, and fruitland to nampa and back twice a week. Time to evaluate the reliability of the Scout.

Here's the results of this weeks work:

compression ran 80 to 105 dry and 90 to 110 wet.
3 different spark plugs with 2 different heat ranges and all gapped to about .030.

Getting the hub off for the timing cover seal was a pain, pulled the radiator and lifted the engine up so the puller could get ahold. No immediate leaks, might have been a little drop but will have to wait till daylight to be sure.

Autolite 85's properly gapped and the buttocelerometer says its a touch snappier.

Also put a proper relay on the electric fan.

Plugs looked a touch lean so I'll probably jump a jet up since the new hometown is a little lower in elevation.

Cold oil psi is 60 @ 3k rpm.
Hot oil psi is 45 @ 3k rpm.

Seems like that should be good?

According to the mity-vac manual I have leaky valve guides. Which isn't great but way better than a sticking valve.