Major Screwup
Member
I/we need some 1350 yokes and slip yokes etc. For the girlscout drive shaft upgrade. What say you?
Anybody have some 1350 yokes laying around?
- Thread starter Major Screwup
- Start date
Chris Pucci
Active member
Good luck....
I had to search high and low at the junk yard to get enough non-junked ones to make anything. Then I had to throw real money at the t-case yoke for the d300.
I had to search high and low at the junk yard to get enough non-junked ones to make anything. Then I had to throw real money at the t-case yoke for the d300.
Major Screwup
Member
I figured you would have some, if anybody did...
Them bad boys cost some real$$$$
Them bad boys cost some real$$$$
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Real dineros??? Then the one I have for ya is gonna cost yore ass a buncha plastic bearings! Like maybe a full cage for a Scout 80...painted and installed????
I'll have it for ya on the 4th along with the driveshaft crap...if it stops raining long enuff to get the rig up in the air so I can begin the partout. Dave's pushin' me for the transfer case right now too!
Major Screwup
Member
I knew it was gonna cost me something, but crap!
I'm not pushin, so handle dave's stuff first.
Monte is checking with his secret connection also.
T
Major Screwup
Member
So I found a driveshaft today and it has the correct shaft ends, on it. 3.5 inch tubing I'm guessing .085 wall.
So what say all you driveshaft gurus; is the stock tubing adequate or should I look at some heavier tubing?
Once the tubing gets dinged it's just a matter of time until the shaft fails. So it makes sense that heavier tubing might be worth the investment.
I have the lathe, so turning the tube to length and to fit the ends is no big deal.
So what say all you driveshaft gurus; is the stock tubing adequate or should I look at some heavier tubing?
Once the tubing gets dinged it's just a matter of time until the shaft fails. So it makes sense that heavier tubing might be worth the investment.
I have the lathe, so turning the tube to length and to fit the ends is no big deal.
SS2
Member
I think you just answered your own question. :d bigger is always better and you bought those tools to use. This gives you something to do.
Major Screwup
Member
Surely someone will come up with a reason not to have heavier tube. We're already over 5k lbs so a few more pounds isn't an issue. Lets hear it.
OregonGirlScout
Member
Where's waldo?
IdahoJoe
New member
I'm no guru. I just know that above the "critical speed" a driveshaft goes from being a car part to being a weapon. This link is the first one the came up when I googled "driveshaft critical speed." it looked decent:
driveshaft critical speed
driveshaft critical speed
Major Screwup
Member
Holy crap that's some real engineering stuff, with calculations and everything!
I think for a trail rig that will probably never see 35 mph, we'll be ok
Chris Pucci
Active member
I used factory Ford or Chevy size tubing which had a little larger od than the Scout stuff (I didn't check the wall thickness....).
I haven't had any trouble since upgrading to the beefier tube and 1350 joints/yokes.
I built mine with a hammer, hack saw and jb weld -- so you should be much better off with a lathe and precision tools.
I haven't had any trouble since upgrading to the beefier tube and 1350 joints/yokes.
I built mine with a hammer, hack saw and jb weld -- so you should be much better off with a lathe and precision tools.
Dboy
Member
Heard waldo got a reality tv show.
Monte Lauer
Active member
Major Screwup
Member
I'm pretty sure that driveshaft tubing is something a little better than dead soft dom tubing. Maybe I'll just cut up some oem shafts to get the tubing and use that.
Major Screwup
Member
That makes me wonder about front engine/rear transaxle cars, where the ds can turn 6-7k rpm!
IdahoJoe
New member
You mean like your vette?
"c5 aluminum propeller shafts have a rubber donut around the center, acting as a bumper, to minimize this whipping."
carbon fiber driveshaft - vette magazine
I'm betting the factory rev limiter is set below the critical speed of their driveshafts and the material and sizing is carefully engineered with critical speed in mind.
My thought was that critical speed could be limiting on an extremely low geared trail rig with a very thick medium sized driveshaft. It could happen making the run back to the parking area on a nice gravel or paved road at 45 mph. Probably not worth worrying about, but I'm guessing it's not pretty when one decides to come apart. I know a guy who's missing a few toes from an exploded clutch...
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Chris Pucci
Active member
Trophy trucks run 3.5" or 4" x 0.134 dom driveshafts or bigger and put down some serious hp and rpm's.
Don't over think it...
Don't over think it...
Major Screwup
Member
No, yer right, I think a hacked and modded oem ds will be fine for a crappy trail rig, that will max out at about 40 mph.
But then consider something like the trophy trucks or a zr-1 vette that cranks out 650hp or so and turns the ds 7k rpm.
Then a hot rodder takes it home and mods it to put down upwards of 1000 rwhp
those shafts better be pretty dead on!
But then consider something like the trophy trucks or a zr-1 vette that cranks out 650hp or so and turns the ds 7k rpm.
Then a hot rodder takes it home and mods it to put down upwards of 1000 rwhp
those shafts better be pretty dead on!
Chris Pucci
Active member
Give your truck some credit -- I bet your top speed is easily 65-75 mph. I had my truck up around that at the dunes and on the pavement.... No parts came off and no nuns died.