another blinker/reverse light issue

climb2safety

climb2safety

Member
My blinker/reverse fuse blew, changed out the fuse. Ever since, the blinkers remain on solid, no flashing. The other issue is the reverse lights are always on.

From reading the other threads, I have checked the grounds and cleaned the connections. What else do I need to check?
 
You're dealing with two circuits that are separate from end to end, but they do both pass through the same bulkhead connector and also terminate at the same rear harness to light housing connector. Those are both points where cross-mojination can occur. Of course the insulation could also be compromised at any point in between. Have any of the wires in the rear been butchered or modified for towing? Do your hazard 4-ways flash in the rear? Have you checked the flasher fuse? Be advised that there is a separate flasher fuse for the directionals and one for the hazards. One is housed on the fuse block and the other is way up under the dash behind one of the smaller gauge pods. You must lay down on the floor and contort yourself to reach it if you don't want to take the dash apart. This is the best I can do now from my dumb ass remembry. I May have additional thoughts once I've consulted the schemes in the fsm.
 
have any of the wires in the rear been butchered or modified for towing? Yes, this was done after I purchased it buy an electrician who knows what he is doing (supposedly).

do your hazard 4-ways flash in the rear? Yes

have you checked the flasher fuse? It is new and functional

be advised that there is a separate flasher fuse for the directionals and one for the hazards. One is housed on the fuse block and the other is way up under the dash behind one of the smaller gauge pods. To be clear, for the blinkers, there is fuse in addition to the one one fuse block. Is that correct?

What makes the blinkers blink instead of staying on when the turn signal is engaged. Once I am through a turn, the indicators turn off like they are supposed to.
 
Right now you need to be very suspicious of that trailer wiring. Examine it like a chicken hawk hunt'n for a chicken. If bad grounds are the number one cause for electrical issues...and you damn betcha they are, aftermarket trailer wiring is a close second.
Think of the turn signals and the 4-ways as two different, yet very closely related systems. Each requires its own cylindrical flasher fuse in order to function properly. So you have a turn signal flasher and a hazard flasher. The hazard flasher is obviously working. The ts flasher May well be the obnoxious one to access up behind the gauge pods. I can't recall which flasher does which on the sii's. The only fsm I have access to at the moment is my pooderized pdf version for the d-series pickalls. Hopefully it will be close enuff to anoint us with the coveted obummer messy-eye-otolla guud enuff fer gummint werk seal of approval. Oh how I want that trophy on my mantel.
I see now from consulting the schemes that my previous statement of the bu lights and ts being separate from end to end isn't entirely correct. Circuit 71a which feeds the backup lights is actually connected to the ts flasher. Well isn't that special? I think you need to hunt down the ts flasher. That's sounding like a more likely culprit with each passing second.
 
So I got under the started looking for a fuse under/inside the dash - no fuses, all the fuses are in the fuse box. What I did find is a plethora a cut and taped wires - not sure what thats all about - I am guessing the radio install.

After jigglin' all the spaghetti, made sure the pigtails were all connected properly, I went ahead and started it up - now the blinkers flash fast as hell. I must have stirred something up.

I guess will trace it starting at the column, recheck all the tape jobs under the dash and work to the ass end with the light sockets, recheck connections, grounds and of course the trailer wiring... Unless you have any other suggesting I will report back Wednesday or Thursday.
 
I think you might be confused about what a flasher fuse is. I'm not talking about the little glass buss fuses of various amp ratings in the fuse block. A flasher fuse is housed in a metal or plastic cylinder shaped container with two male blade connectors on the top surface with female wire connectors hooked to them. I can gaurondamtee ya that there is one semi-hidden under the dash behind a gauge pod and another that is usually housed very close to the fuse block. These are necessary to make the lights flash on and off.
 
So I am looking for this? What would I be checking for when I find it? Am I making sure it is grounded? Bang on it with a hammer? If I a carefully inspect all the wiring and the issue persist, do I assume it is going out?
 
Yep, that's about what they look like. Its basically an inline resistor. It has an input and an output side. When secured in its metal housing, the resonance created during the on off cycles is what gives you the audible feedback that "your blinkers are on, grampa." it might be low on blinker fluid. If you've got a jug of fluid on hand, top the sumbitch off. Nah, they either work or they don't. When they don't all you can do is replace. You said before that your 4-ways are working, so what you could do is swap and switch between the two trying both your turns and your 4-ways to see if there is one flasher that works in both wiring locations and one that doesn't.
 
I didn't even thnk about topping off the fluid. I tried that and all we are blinking - blinking - blinking correctly.

For future questions on this for 1980 sii, I could only access the flasher fuse by taking the dash off, then take out the oil pressure gauge, look down...

Now for the reverse lights - still not working. I am getting new bulbs and see what happens. I think I am going to need bulb recepticle - I am sure it has a name, I just haven't looked yet. My rig was in an quarter panel bender and all the sockets, wiring, bulbs, were replaced - they look like crap. Anyhow - back to diagnosing issues.

Thanks for your help trevor - you are 2 for 2 in helping me with my last issues... I will get to the real issues eventually.
 
That's the same location as on the earlier sii's. And for the record, it is possible to reach up from underneath whilst resting your head on the brake pedal and contorting one arm into a semi-pretzel like shape. I've done it. It was a bit of a pain, but I think less time consuming...at least for me...than pulling the panel off and removing the gauge pod. But the main thing is you found it and solved that issue.
 
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