Almost 39 years ago.

[Michael Mayben]

well josh my memory was onlu half correct. Tanks to selector valve to the pump are all 1/4 ......... but from the pump to the carb is 5/16...

Sorry for the confusion.

Yep...that was obviously done in order to maintain consistency to the fuel pump inlet/outlet/carb as the common industry standard for that plumbing back then was 5/16".

On my s80, I did the plumbing in 1/4" hose with a transition fitting coming out of the roto-rooted dip tubes to the new selector valve inlet, then from that point forward went 5/16".

If I ever get around to actually finishing this pos, all the lines will be run in steel. I'll do that when the motor comes out for the stroker swap and t-18 install later this summer.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

I went and checked and this is what I have/had. 1/4 coming from the tank to the engine bay then it went to a rubber hose that has 1/8npt to the pump. Then it went from the pump to the carb with 5/16. I don't have a selecter vavle.

What is the purpose of going to 5/16 to the carb when you feeding it with 1/4? Then only thing that I can think of is dropping the pressure. Going into a large diameter pipe willl drop the pressure some. Or has this fuel line been tampered with and is it even piped correct. I will also refer to the service manual to see what it should be.



Edit: the service manual shows nothing as far as routing or line sizing.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

well its official

My Scout loves me

pictures in a little bit.

 

[Michael Mayben]

I went and checked and this is what I have/had. 1/4 coming from the tank to the engine bay then it went to a rubber hose that has 1/8npt to the pump. Then it went from the pump to the carb with 5/16. I don't have a selecter vavle.

What is the purpose of going to 5/16 to the carb when you feeding it with 1/4? Then only thing that I can think of is dropping the pressure. Going into a large diameter pipe willl drop the pressure some. Or has this fuel line been tampered with and is it even piped correct. I will also refer to the service manual to see what it should be.



Edit: the service manual shows nothing as far as routing or line sizing.

The 5/16" feed from the pump to the carb was an "industry standard" back at that point in time. All carbs that were oem were set up for a 5/16" tube fuel feed. As far as why the s80 tanks are plumbed in 1/4", I have a theory that some real oldtimers have related to me is essentially correct:

those tanks were actually originally designed for use in some agricultural products (both a hay bailer and a small combine) that used the 152 engine also. There were many of those motors used in ag products and as stationary power units, also in some tractors. In other words, they already were production items so that the s80 overall vehicle design used as many existing components as possible to both reduce development time and cost. That is pretty obvious when ya see how crude the earliest s80 is compared to say a late '62 or '63 version that quickly "evolved" as both sales and production ramped up. Distinct differences between the two units.

Unfortunately...the one person who could answer this question definitively, passed away more than a year ago, the guy who is considered the primary designer of these rigs, Ted Ornas. We were honored to have Ted's son attend the 2009 Sierra Fall Rallye and present a perpetual award in Ted's memory.

Maybe Mike Ismail (IH only) can shed more light on this, he and his family were fortunate to be able to spend time with mr. Ornas a few year's ago after attending the nationals in springfield, oh. Mike has the earliest known existing Scout 80 (a superb resto!) and he was able to have mr. Ornas actually inspect it!

Looks like we're still having server issues, I'll edit this post later with a pic of the Ornas family award!

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

I am still in the process of cleaning this thing and I did a little more yesterday. I had to use my backup camera due to the battery was dead on my other one. This is why the pictures are not that good.

I removed the bolts that held the fuel pump on because I wanted to really get it cleaned. I notice something about them.

The IH logo stamped in the head of the bolts. Pretty dam cool.

I removed the cover from the shifter and thought that it has been awhile since someone has cleaned under here. So I sprayed it down and went on to do some other stuff while it soaked.

After a little bit came back to hose it down I really looked at what it was. My opinion had changed to I don"t think anybody has ever cleaned under here. I just don't understand people that leave a vehicle in this condition.
Yeah thats about an inch in dirt and oil.

I clean everything I own. Especially after it has seen some dirt or mud. I guess that I must be strange like that. I can't stand working on something that is nasty and dirty.

Cleaned, no where near what my standards are but enough to give me some motivation.

And got the engine again. Its starting to get about where I would work on it now.


Before

After

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

the 5/16" feed from the pump to the carb was an "industry standard" back at that point in time. All carbs that were oem were set up for a 5/16" tube fuel feed. As far as why the s80 tanks are plumbed in 1/4", I have a theory that some real oldtimers have related to me is essentially correct:

those tanks were actually originally designed for use in some agricultural products (both a hay bailer and a small combine) that used the 152 engine also. There were many of those motors used in ag products and as stationary power units, also in some tractors. In other words, they already were production items so that the s80 overall vehicle design used as many existing components as possible to both reduce development time and cost. That is pretty obvious when ya see how crude the earliest s80 is compared to say a late '62 or '63 version that quickly "evolved" as both sales and production ramped up. Distinct differences between the two units.

Unfortunately...the one person who could answer this question definitively, passed away more than a year ago, the guy who is considered the primary designer of these rigs, Ted Ornas. We were honored to have Ted's son attend the 2009 Sierra Fall Rallye and present an perpetual award in Ted's memory.

Maybe Mike Ismail (IH only) can shed more light on this, he and his family were fortunate to be able to spend time with mr. Ornas a few year's ago after attending the nationals in springfield, oh. Mike has the earliest known existing Scout 80 (a superb resto!) and he was able to have mr. Ornas actually inspect it!

Looks like we're still having server issues, I'll edit this post later with a pic of the Ornas family award!

So it is just a standard but dosen't really serve a purpose. Ok I see now. I am going to run 5/16 from the pump to carb. 1/4 from the pump to the tank. Along with an inline filter somewhere in there.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Well today was a nice day to work on a Scout. Loaded up and drove up to my dads house and began working with the torch. Started hacking away what was left of the body. Pretty much cut the body away from the frame.

This Scout spent its life at a new jersey airport as a snowplow from what I was told. I thought about getting a line set ticket just to see where its life my have started but decided against it. I think the body speaks for itself as far as where it spent its life.

This is some of the patching that was on the fenders and rockerpanels. Those are rivets just like an airplane has.

Custom made rocker's actually they did a dam good job making these. I think they should get in the buisness.

This was done in 10 minutes. Like I said there wasn't much holding it on.

Then we rolled it in the garage and began removing the all the rest of the stuff that was connected to the front.

Got it off and things are starting to take shape.

Now we ready to see it the engine is ready to come out.

Yep there it is. Will need to bring a dolly so that we can sit it on and get ready for the frame to be sandblasted and painted.

Now I was extremely surprise that all except 2 bolts came out. No trouble at all. I really was amazed, I have worked on some other trucks that you had to beat the living shit out of it just so you could feel better. But every thing worked out pretty dam good today. I think the Scout is ready to see some action and thats why it is working out.

Now. Things I need to get the ball rolling.

The plan for tomorrow is see if we can get this engine to fire off. If so I will clean the piss out of it.

Going to order a clutch, pressure plate, maybe flywheel. Get it all changed out while I can get to easy. I have seen where IH only has came out with an updated clutch fork. I think that would be a good investment since I here.

Now next weekend the sandblasting and painting the frame will be taking place if the weather cooperates.

Then I am thinking about going ahead and install a body lift. I was thinking around 3 inch. Is there anybody around that sells a body lift for the Scout 80?

Or a suspension lift. I was looking at these narrow springs and was wondering if there is a kit out there to install a wider set of springs?

Any suggestions?????

 

[71mtnscout]

Lookin good, I cant wait to get my 80 home. I'm sure its rougher than the pics show, but its a good start.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Not much done today. Was going to see if the old engine would fire off. But found that the starter motor is no good. Will have to order one. So we can try next week.

Did get some cleaning done.

I will say this when it came to the frame, IH had it down pat. This thing is beefy for what it is. The frame is braced front and back.

I am thinking about welding the end of the frame up so that it is stronger. I know that I will put a hitch on and figure since this is a easy spot to get now that it would be a good time to do it.
Does anybody see any problem with doing that?

I do have a question, just what the hell is this. It looks like a drill bit that is brazed in the manifold.

Anybody

 

[RobertC]

Hmmm, that takes shade-tree work arounds to a new level...

Some year's ihs had a hot air choke (michael mayben will know the years / more.). There was a pipe fitting there in the manifold and a "hose" / "pipe" that ran to the choke on the carburetor.

New exhaust manifolds come with that hole in them and you usually fill it with a pipe plug.

Curious question -- I have been following your work and do not know why you decided to switch frames -- obviously the one on the green Scout must be "toast"???

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

hmmm, that takes shade-tree work arounds to a new level...

Some year's ihs had a hot air choke (michael mayben will know the years / more.). There was a pipe fitting there in the manifold and a "hose" / "pipe" that ran to the choke on the carburetor.

New exhaust manifolds come with that hole in them and you usually fill it with a pipe plug.

Curious question -- I have been following your work and do not know why you decided to switch frames -- obviously the one on the green Scout must be "toast"???

The frame on the green Scout is ok. The reason that I am going to build off of this frame is when I start to removeing the fenders I will have them sandblasted, patch if needed and then undercoated on the inside. Same with the tub. Then I can just put everything on this frame. Mainly due to the fact that it is already to be sandblasted and painted. And the fact that the 2 scouts are over 75 miles apart. Then when I get it going I can take my motor and rebuild it along with the transmission, have them painted.

Then I can install a better setup for 31" tires with better axles for the frame on the green Scout. After I get that it would be just a matter of swapping the body parts. Then I can sell the rolling chasis from the other Scout.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Got some progress today. We sandblasted the frame and painted it.

Picked up a helpful tool this week. I knew that I would be having to sandblast the frame and I want to get the underneath of the body also. So I have thought about getting a rotesserie. I found one on ebay last week just up the road about 2 hours. Shot the guy a email about wanting to look at it. Drove out there and seemed to be pretty good and came back with it.

Put it to work today. And it was well worth the money. I picked it up for $700.00 when I have been looking and finding for about double that. It made blasting and painting this frame alot easier than trying to put it up on saw horses and filping it.

Got the axles removed today and the frame ready to be blasted.

Got the frame bolted to the rotesserie and up on the side to blast.

Aint dads the greatest. He don't mind a bit that I bring some junkie ass Scout down to his house, tear it apart and tie up his garage with this project.

Also blasted the fan while we were at it

Almost done.

Just hitting a few spots missed.

Now I painted most of the frame I got a shot of Dad doing a little.

The finished product. Now will let set for a week to make sure it is completely cured. We used a 1/2 of a gallon of paint with reducer to paint the frame. About 4 coats, don't have to worry about rust again. Then next weekend we should start to build on it.

Blasting found a few holes but it should be ok.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

The cross member and fan blade.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Tracking numbers!!!!!!!!! Makes me feel good, always get excited when I see them.


Got some stuff in today

first off, I took the heater box in to the powder coater and had to drop it off with his wife about a week ago. She was really excited to hear about the project and said that her husband would be even more excited.

Well she called me today and said that it was ready. Got there and sure as she said her husband was really excited. He talked and talked about it. I really felt good about the project and really put my motivation into overdrive. I told him that I would have some more stuff coming up to have powder coated. He also told me that it is legal to put a older tag on your car as long as it is older than a 1971. I thought that would be cool if I could find a 1961 georgia tag and put it on the Scout. So he said that he would look out for one for me. Sweet!!!


The heater box. Now I know that it seems that we are putting the horse before the cart with getting this done, since there is other tasks that must be done first before this box is a concern. But this is just the way I do things; it also keeps me interested that I can start to see the finish product.

I think it turned out great. I really do like this powder coating.

Now since some of the bolts on this have the IH stamped in the top, I would really like to keep them. Mainly I think that is the coolest thing ever. So I went into the local tractor supply (get store) and was looking around and came across a product that claims to remove rust. I thought well I'll try it and see.

Well it actually worked. I didn't think to take any before pictures but I do have one of the tag on the radiator.

Before

After

Thats pretty good. I let it soak for 24 hrs in this chemical.

Some of the bolts

And this is the chemical

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Also got the double flaring tool. Now I didn't buy it off of ebay; I bought it off the eastwood site. For $153.00. So I save a little money. I know most of you on here think that I paid too much, but I just can't get the other tools to work for me. I figure that this is idiot proof, hence the idiot that bought it.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Got the air breather cleaned up and found that rust claimed a hole in the breather.

With my superior hvac brazing skills I was able to braze it up with 45% silver solder.

While writing this post the ups man showed up with the oil pump drive tube.

I pulled off the vavle cover off the maryland engine and found that frequent oil changes was not in its life. But I will see with the oil pump test where I need to go from there. The vavle cover gasket has never been replaced. How do I know this you ask?. It's a cork gasket, and it still has the red paint on the outside.

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Finally got my Scout down to my Dad's this past weekend. Started removing the body mount bolts and pulling the body off.
Glad my Dad has this setup in the attic.

Pulling the top off.

Got the top off and the bolts cut loose.

One of the problems when lifting the body in one piece is trying not to flex the body and get it in a bind. And trying to figure out just how to lift it while not damaging the body. So we discussed it and came up with some well place 2x4's and it worked out very well. Just had to adjust the center.

And up it comes..

 

[Josh Shoemaker]

Rolled the frame out of the way and lowered the body on the trailer and parked it in the yard.

Rolled the frame back in and started removing the axles. I am going to use my axles and take the maryland axles and put them on this frame. I plan on rebuilding the axles or having them rebuilt. I know nothing about rebuilding them, so I May just find someone to rebuild them for me.

Found some evidence of rock crawling or stump jumping.

Bent cross member

Folded back body mount.

Now I am almost sure that one of the persons that owned this Scout before me was in a just get it to work mode.

This a plastic tube that is going to the clutch slave cylinder that has a cable tie and a worm drive hose clamp.
Can someone say hack!!!!!

And this is just as bad. There was a 5/8 garden hose running under the body. When I saw this I knew that it was being used as a jacket for some wiring. But I never guessed it had this in it.

This is a sjo cord commonly used on hand tools. This was being used to run power to the lights.

 

[East]

Cool build.....keep up the awesome work. I am currently building one...just got the chassis back from powdercoat, check it out I posted some pics. I look forward to the progression!

Have a good day!

 

[Michael Mayben]

I've been overlooking your progress man!

You have really gotten into this one.

Great score on the rotisserie, I'm gonna use two of the cheepo harbor freight engine stands to fab one for my next frame resto.

Still no word from radiatordude, my next visit with him will be this coming Friday.

You should feel privileged, the power cord wiring harness is a definite improvement over the oem stuff, but then...most of 'em have been "fixed" by now using zipcord!

I've seen alotta workarounds, but a dam reamer stuck in the hole where the hot air tube fitting for a choke goes??? That is a new one!

Those rigs never had hot air choke carbs, though some fords which used the 1904 mixer did have a version of a hot air "automatic" choke. That tells me the exhaust manifold came off a passenger side of an sv application prior to a '73 model sumthin'...no big deal, they all interchange and I see that all the time. But...no need to plug that hole at all unless someone drilled it through, it's a blind hole originally!

As for fabbing in a rear crossmember to the frame horns for a hitch connection/mount point, again that is fairly common. The front bumper on my s80 is done that way and is a real solid mount point for a tow bar so it stays in place but will be cleaned up considerably.

I've got the same kinda "lift" rig mounted in my shop ceiling with a winch attached to the wall. I use it for r&r of the camper shell (and storage) on one side, then move the cable to a turning block on the other side and use it to lift/store my cataraft to the ceiling during the off season on the river. The camper shell will soon be history, then the travel top for the s80 will come inside and hang in it's place onna as-need basis.