New battery don't mean jack crap nuthin' any more. Have it load tested to prove it is healthy. You could very well have a parasitic drain, but usually those take a couple days to sap a fully charged battery down to the point that the engine dies and the starter won't crank. So definitely perform the simple test as chappie instructed to check for a drain that is sucking your voltage down like a tick on a dog, but be prepared to take it a step further. Just knowing you have a drain is only half the battle. You've got to find out what's causing the drain so you can stop it. So if the light comes on and stays lit, go to the fuse block and pull one fuse, then repeat the test. Keep doing it until you find one that when removed makes the light go dark. Your drain is in a circuit protected by that fuse. Now you've narrowed the possibilities dramatically and can begin tracing only the circuits that are associated with that fuse. If none of the fuses when removed make the light go out, the drain is upstream of the fuse block. Items that are upstream of the fuse block in ascending order are: ammeter gauge, bulkhead connector, and the large terminal of the starter solenoid, all of which are potential problem points. The 'b' terminal of the alternator is also in constant contact with the battery via the ammeter gauge. It is not unheard of for a failed vr to create a voltage drain. Anything that is hooked to the battery can drain it when conditions are right...or wrong depending on your point of view. It is also well within the realm of possibility that your alternator is not putting out a charge sufficient to replenish your battery while the engine is running. Any one or all of these possibilities could be conspiring to create your symptoms. The answer and remedy is contained somewhere within the above discussions.
