727 cluncks into drive

leh

New member
Been through the ringer with my 727 tourqeflight.
Trying to get rid of a thud-clunk from neutral to drive,neutral to reverse-
rebuilt rear end
new half shafts
lowered carb speed
changed motor-trany mounts
rebuilit trany
bought new valve body from dealer $$$$
shifts good 1-2-3
just can't get a smooth transition from neutral
 
been through the ringer with my 727 tourqeflight.
Trying to get rid of a thud-clunk from neutral to drive,neutral to reverse-
rebuilt rear end
new half shafts
lowered carb speed
changed motor-trany mounts
rebuilit trany
bought new valve body from dealer $$$$
shifts good 1-2-3
just can't get a smooth transition from neutral

I need....what vehicle? What engine? What axle(s) (half-shaft?????)? What torque converter?

Is the valve body actually new? Or "new to you" (can't buy a new one, only a rebuilt from most sources). Why was it changed? Has it been modified in any way? Is this transmission "built" using aftermarket/performance components?
 
The valve body is new from dealer.last one in the usa....
Replaced it hoping to help the clunk since used ones did not .
It really helped the 1.2.3. Shifts.
All rebuild was done to factory spec no mods.
The tourqe converter is new need to find the specs if its putting out to much pressure.
Going to do a pressure check next week.
The engine is a a 318.
The axels are new,as well as the spiders.hardly no play left in rear end.
The car is not a IH but a 1986 dodge b150 van.
Hope this is ok,very hard to find any one to help me who knows anything.
So my problem really is the excessive neutral pressure not engaging in a smooth manner from neutral-drive neutral-reverse.
The ideal is a as low possible.
 
I don't see the valve body having anything to do with your description unless (highly improbable) a valve is somehow hanging and then breaking loose in a repetitive fashion. They just don't do that even when really trashy internally.

Having said that...if someone really screwed around with the "adjustability" of the few control points on the valve body, then that is a different story. I'm dealing with one like that now where someone tried to make it act like it had a"shift kit" by simply cranking on the adjustments which are totally screwed!

A torque converter does not control or "put out" pressure. The oil pressure is produced by the oil pump mounted in the front end of the transmission and oil pressure/flow is directed to various operational components by the valve body and it's feedback loops. The only variable in a non-lockup type torque converter is it's assembled stall speed. And since you have mentioned this is a van, then those would have never had a dam lock-up converter pos! The lock-up stuff was only available in the light duty/light weight vehicles, their durability sux.

I have no issues in helping anyone with torqueflite stuff...I first learned this stuff the hard way as a mechanic-trainee in a chrysler dealership in 1968 and then taught this stuff in an automotive technology program in a community college for 14 years. A 904/727 is a 904/727, we ain't prejudiced!

When the replacement valve body was installed, are you sure that the spring was installed between the valve body and the accumulator servo/piston?? Most of the "shift kits" sold out there call for eliminating that spring if the kit is installed along with all called-for mods. But with a stock valve body/trans you cannot do that.

The other thing that comes to mind...even though a "pro" May have built the trans...is that the end plays in some of the critical areas are excessive. End plays are set according to the specs (which are really a pretty large tolerance) through the use of selective thickness shims, both metallic and fiber.

Another thing that comes to mind...iirc, a van used a "slip yoke" on the forward end of the driveshaft. With the rig up on stands and the trans in park, describe the "slack" found at that point, you could have an excessively worn slip yoke. If I'm wrong and it has a "bolt-on" yoke like the motorhome version, then double check the torque on the retaining nut.
 
Hi ,
thanks for the reply.
After putting in the new valve body hoping the clunk would go away so was dissapointing and expensive.the dealer didn't cut me much of a deal...$$$$ ++++
I realize there is some adjustment on the unit, but how much and it will probably affect the other functions as well.
Best to leave it at the factory settings?
I started the van the other morning when it was cold and it seemed to shift smoother from the neutral.
When it shifts properly in neutral there seems to be a slight pause when you first grab the shifter and begin the shift,then it goes into the selected gear.this seems to the proper way for the transmission to engage,opposed to just dropping in gear all at once like it does when warm.that little pause makes all the difference to being smooth.so being cold sounds like what??
Does this sound like a valve problem,if so where should I begin when I start breaking it down.
Would like the accumulator piston be a issue?
How about the spring.would a softer one work better?
Have you ever had a problem like this before?
I sure would like a game plan before I re-dig into this problem
 
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