72 Scout II NP208 SYE pics.

[Travis]

Behind my 700r4 I have an NP208. The stock one was so long that my driveshaft angle was so steep it vibrated like a king bed with a quarter machine attached. So I bought another NP208 off craigslist and shiped back half and output shaft to Tom woods to be machined down. They sent it back with a cv shaft also. Here are a few pics to show the difference. Also had the transfer case rebuilt while it was out. Test drive last night and it was as smooth as a cadilac!

 

[Dealbreaker74]

Cool job travis. I did the same 700r/np transplant. What I found was at freeway speeds, I still had some vibration. The cv joint wants to have the rear diff angled up to match the angle of the drive shaft. I couldn't go that extreme without re-welding the spring perches, but some 6 degree shims definitely helped. I can barely sense the vibration now.
Isn't od great? And how did you deal with your xfr case shifter?

 

[Travis]

I bought those rear spring perches with 3 holes to move axle forward or backward and inch. So I had to cut off old ones anyway. After welding the new ones in with the old setup I spent hours and hours careflly grinding and cutting off again. So I angled my axle up almost 20 degrees to match the driveshafts angle coming down. Over drive is sweet although I am having a problem getting my 700 to lock up. I bought one of those B&M lock up boxes its but not locking up. I double and triple checked the wiring. Only thing I can find so far is my pulses on my speedo sender is 16 revs where the B&M instructions says 40 revs. I'll call them on Monday.

As far as the shifter I have not put one in yet. I still have no front driveshaft so its no big deal to not have a shifter yet. I put in a lokar 16 inch trans mount shifter and was thinking for looks I would but there shortest floor mount shifter and adapt it to shift the transfercase. I know its $200 but it would match and look good.

 

[Dealbreaker74]

I agree, the lokar is nice. Two would look sweet. I stayed stock, but like your direction.
My trans locks up based on the governor speed. And only in 4h above 44 mph. Kind of a one trick pony, but I'm getting used to it. One thing I wish I did was go with more stall speed. Mine is basically stock. It really should be like 1800 rpm. That way, when you mash the pedal, you get the motor up into the power band faster. Then 4th gear and lock up happen, and you're back to loafing. The way I am now, I sometimes have to go into second briefly to get the engine speed and road speed up in traffic. Kind of a pain. I'll be changing that at some point.
Did your first drive shaft have a cv joint? That along with your spring perches make a huge difference vibration-wise. I'm saving the spring perch project for when I do a locker/4.11 install.

 

[Travis]

No the original shaft was a stock Chevy with the slip yoke. I used a 1310 to 1350 conversion joint in the back to match the 44 output yoke.

 

[1972ScoutII]

I used a blazer/suburban shift gate. And welded nuts to the stock coverplate to make it removeable and an off the shelf boot works great

I used this kit for my lockup

bowtie overdrives - view item


Works well and I can overide the lockup if I want. This kit only lockes up in forth and unlocks when you apply the brake, not as fancy as the B&M kit but it works

I use this kit to control shift points

bowtie overdrives - view item

I still have the stock length tailhousing on my NP208 and dont have any vibration maybe I just got lucky

 

[Travis]

Mine had about 6" lift when I did spring over. Driveshaft was really steep and that's probably the vibration.