67 IH pick up clutch issue

deskvader

deskvader

Member
1) 1100b pickup
2) 1967
3) two wheel drive
4) manual
5) striaght 6

ok guys I was about to go get my truck registered and legal but I am having a clutch issue. It has a fairly recent slave on it ( because it is still shiny and new looking) however it is taking soe work to get it into gear after a minute of running. If is double or triple pup the clutch, it works, but only then some of the time. I bled the line today but it didn't affect the symptoms at all. I was really hoping to get it legal on the texas hwy today, any advice?
 
See if there is an inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing that can be removed so you can see what's going on with the throw out bearing and pressure plate. Get under the truck and have someone step on the clutch pedal. Make sure the e-brake is on, don't need the engine running.
 
I went through this on my truck. 68 travelette 4x4, 304, t34 blah blah blah. :lol:
first, I have to assume your master is good and properly bled. Those are the first couple of things.

I had a return spring between the arm that the slave pushes on and the slave, but it was week and would not pull the linkage back all the way, after pushing and releasing the clutch. This caused the linkage to be adjusted wrong. It was ok while cold but after warming up ( grease on the to bearing and trans nose softened) it would pull back further and leave slop in the linkage. Once you install the proper spring that can pull the linkage back and bottom the slave reliably every time, adjust the linkage up and leave 1/16 clearance between the to bearing and the pressure plate fingers with the pedal released.

That fixed me up immediately. Hth
 
Yes I have the exact spring. It was working fine until recently. Where would I find the proper spring? Thanks so much for the advice. Im in houston texas
 

Attachments

  • 20170220_061320.jpg
    20170220_061320.jpg
    56.1 KB · Views: 259
The spring needs to pull the arm back to a stop every time. I don't remember at the moment if I had a stop bolt or if it simply bottomed in the slave.
It is a beefy spring and took considerable force to hook it up. I recall buying a few at osh. The spring od was about 1"

when I have time (probably Saturday) I'll get some info for you from my truck. Until then and when cold, push the pedal and see if you can tug the arm at the slave back any further.
 
Here is a photo of the spring I used. I thought I had purchased 2 but couldn't find it.
It is a stocking item at osh, about 5" long and 3/4" diameter.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2740.jpg
    IMG_2740.jpg
    65 KB · Views: 227
Ok upon further inspection, what appears to be happening is not the retraction that the spring dies, but rather the clutch itself not going in far enough? There is no air in the line and plenty of fluid. It just seems that when I press the clutch it almost hits the firewall before pushing in. Is there an easy way to adjust this?? I have the same clutch system as your photo in this thread.
 
The threaded rod and clevis are your adjustment.
Set the linkage so you have about .060 play between the to bearing and the clutch plate levers.
Make sure you also have pedal play before the master is contacted by the pushrod.

I would also ask what has changed. If the linkage remained the same and the clutch was wearing normally, the opposite effect would be experienced than you stated. The clutch would release earlier while pressing the pedal.
 
Last edited:
I will look at it this eve and see what is going on. The best way to describe is when I press the clutch after warmed up and attempt to shift it grinds so I go back to n. Bump clutch hard and then put into gear without a grind. This doesnt happen every time mind you and it just started doing it.
 
The only changes I have done since this started was bleed the line a little to get any air out that could be there
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top