67 1200b (lots of large photos)
- Thread starter Korllach
- Start date
Korllach
Member
I got the new slave cyl put in, and from the looks of the old one, it probably just needed a rebuild kit. Oh well. The new one is in, all the lines are hooked up and it has been bled.
The next issue is: when pressing down on the clutch, the push rod only moves about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. And there is still no resistance on th clutch pedal. I had the wife pumping the pedal while I caught the fluid and we got it so there were no more air bubbles going into the bottle.
Not sure where to go next.
The next issue is: when pressing down on the clutch, the push rod only moves about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. And there is still no resistance on th clutch pedal. I had the wife pumping the pedal while I caught the fluid and we got it so there were no more air bubbles going into the bottle.
Not sure where to go next.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
You will need your wife to help with this....
One of ya push the clutch pedal, while the other watches the slave pushrod actuate the clutch throwout linkage. The slave should move exactly in synchronization with the movement of the master/clutch pedal and of course have "resistance" to being pushed.
The master cylinder/pedal interface should have about 1/4" of "free play" before the master starts to actuate the slave. Make sure that is set as it has to do with total travel of the slave.
Also, the slave pushrod should have an adjustment for travel where it connects to the clutch throwout linkage. There should be about 1/8" of slop or free play at that point also. If too much free play exists at either/both points, then the overall travel is eaten up due to the force multiplication taking place through the hydraulics. The master has to "match" the slave, that was handled when the system was engineered originally.
If the clutch pedal remains "soft" after bleeding, then the master cylinder is by-passing and will need to either be rebuilt or replaced. This would be a perfectly normal expectation since the rig set for so long, the hydraulics simply can't take that and the internal cups/seals are just gone. If the slave was punky, I'd certainly expect the master to also be scruud!
Hold onto that slave! Those are an ez rebuild and someone else May need one in the future if the cylinder bore and piston are usable!
One of ya push the clutch pedal, while the other watches the slave pushrod actuate the clutch throwout linkage. The slave should move exactly in synchronization with the movement of the master/clutch pedal and of course have "resistance" to being pushed.
The master cylinder/pedal interface should have about 1/4" of "free play" before the master starts to actuate the slave. Make sure that is set as it has to do with total travel of the slave.
Also, the slave pushrod should have an adjustment for travel where it connects to the clutch throwout linkage. There should be about 1/8" of slop or free play at that point also. If too much free play exists at either/both points, then the overall travel is eaten up due to the force multiplication taking place through the hydraulics. The master has to "match" the slave, that was handled when the system was engineered originally.
If the clutch pedal remains "soft" after bleeding, then the master cylinder is by-passing and will need to either be rebuilt or replaced. This would be a perfectly normal expectation since the rig set for so long, the hydraulics simply can't take that and the internal cups/seals are just gone. If the slave was punky, I'd certainly expect the master to also be scruud!
Hold onto that slave! Those are an ez rebuild and someone else May need one in the future if the cylinder bore and piston are usable!
Korllach
Member
Will do.
The new complete slave from napa was 43 bucks.
I thnk the rebuild kit is like 20 bucks.
There was 0 resitance on the pedal at all even after the bleeding had taken all the air bubbles out. I would almost guarantee the master needs to be rebuilt. The clutch slave was the original I bet as it had a big ole IH on the side.
So, I think you are right, I probably need to rebuild that master cyl
The new complete slave from napa was 43 bucks.
I thnk the rebuild kit is like 20 bucks.
There was 0 resitance on the pedal at all even after the bleeding had taken all the air bubbles out. I would almost guarantee the master needs to be rebuilt. The clutch slave was the original I bet as it had a big ole IH on the side.
So, I think you are right, I probably need to rebuild that master cyl
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Yep...do the master also and be done with it! They always go together, if one is boogered so is the others, they share spit 100% of the time!
Korllach
Member
I am just getting around to checking for parts on this.
Napa does not sell a rebuild kit, and they want 197.89 for a complete new master cyl. Part # 3573.
Part #433 was their reference for a rebuild kit and they said no one has them around here as far as napa goes.
Vato zone said they cant get a master cyl, however they can get the rebuild kit for the 900 series and that runs 18 bucks.
Are those masters the same? I would tend think that they were, but before I go grab anything and get this thing all tore apart, I thought I would check.
Once henry is moving under his own power, a for sale sign will be put in his dash
Napa does not sell a rebuild kit, and they want 197.89 for a complete new master cyl. Part # 3573.
Part #433 was their reference for a rebuild kit and they said no one has them around here as far as napa goes.
Vato zone said they cant get a master cyl, however they can get the rebuild kit for the 900 series and that runs 18 bucks.
Are those masters the same? I would tend think that they were, but before I go grab anything and get this thing all tore apart, I thought I would check.
Once henry is moving under his own power, a for sale sign will be put in his dash
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
In my bucket list of parts houses not to do business with, napa suks donkee cajones. Can't trust crap in their lookups anymore and prices are outrageous for the same dam thing anywhere else!
Try the $18 rebuild kit. If it's for the single chamber "round" clutch master it will work.
Neither Isa nor Mike Ismail/IH only show that particular clutch master in their online stores, but I believe Isa does stock that item so ya might ring his bell if ya don't wanna attempt a mc rebuild. The '64 and earlier roundbodies use the "dual" clutch/brake master cylinder so they are not the same. Those are available from both IH only and Isa's.
Try the $18 rebuild kit. If it's for the single chamber "round" clutch master it will work.
Neither Isa nor Mike Ismail/IH only show that particular clutch master in their online stores, but I believe Isa does stock that item so ya might ring his bell if ya don't wanna attempt a mc rebuild. The '64 and earlier roundbodies use the "dual" clutch/brake master cylinder so they are not the same. Those are available from both IH only and Isa's.
Korllach
Member
The autozone rebuild kit for the 900 is in fact the dual chamber model that ole henry does not have. Looks like I will bite the bullet and get the new master. Mike at iho said he can get it and his cost is $150, so I would assume my cost, plus shipping will be the same as through napa. And I would rather not buy at napa.
Korllach
Member
Got the master ordered after a scare with the wifes 2003 alero... Fuel pump went out and there is an issue with the dash lights, ac, odometer, and windows where randomly all of these systems will lose power. Then come back. It seems like it is a ground issue. I would love to get rid of that stinking piece of canadian GM trash.
Hopefully the new master for the pickup will be here by Tuesday.
I do have a question though, how is the clutch pedal connected to the master cyl? Or is it? I would assume it was. I am just trying to prepare myself for the replacement of this guy and do away with any suprises when I start pulling those bolts off the firewall.
Thanks guys!
Hopefully the new master for the pickup will be here by Tuesday.
I do have a question though, how is the clutch pedal connected to the master cyl? Or is it? I would assume it was. I am just trying to prepare myself for the replacement of this guy and do away with any suprises when I start pulling those bolts off the firewall.
Thanks guys!
Korllach
Member
So I started dinking with some of the minor electrical problems today. So I got my handy m4-m16 star chamber brush and put it on a length of cleaning rod and we went to town!
First on the list was wipers.
Took the electrical connector off of the wiper control. And noticed that it was pretty corroded. Went to work on it with the brush for a bit, both the male and female side.
Connected it back up real good and solid.
Plugged in the vacuum line.
Before I went and tested the wipers I decided to do number 2 on my list. Replace all the fuses and clean their conection points.
Once that was done, I tried my wipers. And they work!
Front turn signals and park lights work too.
Then it was on to the back to replace the rear bulbs and see if the rear lights work.
The passenger side lit up but the drivers side did not.
So I pulled the housing and checked the socket to see if it was corroded. It wasnt. So I started followin the wiring down under the truck and I found this
Well I got the trusty old wiring diagram that mr. Mayben was so kind in passing my way and started going over the wires that belong back there.
105-16 was my back up lights. This circuit and connector looked pretty unmolested, so I put that up out of the way.
117-18 was runnin into a connector, then out to the red/brown combo going to the working side of the truck. The other 2 green wires had been cut, and I cannot seem to find the label on them. The red/brown set going to the drivers side tail light had also been cut.
From what I can tell the brown wires are my brake light and the red is the turn signal and tail light?
117-18 seems to be the right side red wire.
115-18 seems to be the left side red wire
21-18 or 16 seems to be the brown wire that goes into a connector and then feeds both lights.
The only problem I see with my rig and the wiring diagram is that the wiring diagram shows 2 connectors for these 3 circuits go run into. Though I May be reading that wrong. My brain is kind of swimming. I think I am gonna go have some lunch and a few beers and mull this over.
any thoughts or suggestions would be a great help. I am wondering if I should gut the original connector and rewire it that way ?
First on the list was wipers.
Took the electrical connector off of the wiper control. And noticed that it was pretty corroded. Went to work on it with the brush for a bit, both the male and female side.
Connected it back up real good and solid.
Plugged in the vacuum line.
Before I went and tested the wipers I decided to do number 2 on my list. Replace all the fuses and clean their conection points.
Once that was done, I tried my wipers. And they work!
Front turn signals and park lights work too.
Then it was on to the back to replace the rear bulbs and see if the rear lights work.
The passenger side lit up but the drivers side did not.
So I pulled the housing and checked the socket to see if it was corroded. It wasnt. So I started followin the wiring down under the truck and I found this
Well I got the trusty old wiring diagram that mr. Mayben was so kind in passing my way and started going over the wires that belong back there.
105-16 was my back up lights. This circuit and connector looked pretty unmolested, so I put that up out of the way.
117-18 was runnin into a connector, then out to the red/brown combo going to the working side of the truck. The other 2 green wires had been cut, and I cannot seem to find the label on them. The red/brown set going to the drivers side tail light had also been cut.
From what I can tell the brown wires are my brake light and the red is the turn signal and tail light?
117-18 seems to be the right side red wire.
115-18 seems to be the left side red wire
21-18 or 16 seems to be the brown wire that goes into a connector and then feeds both lights.
The only problem I see with my rig and the wiring diagram is that the wiring diagram shows 2 connectors for these 3 circuits go run into. Though I May be reading that wrong. My brain is kind of swimming. I think I am gonna go have some lunch and a few beers and mull this over.
any thoughts or suggestions would be a great help. I am wondering if I should gut the original connector and rewire it that way ?
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Don't put too much trust into the "correctness" of the actual wiring diagram from the service manuals, those normally contain more than a few "errors" and are not meant to be exact graphical pictorials of the system. And...during production of sub-assemblies like harnesses, they are constantly changing in order to meet targets for cost reduction. But the actual wire runs are normally very accurate.
As you can see, the tail light circuit is a "shared" circuit with both tail light filaments running off a single feed conductor in "parallel" mode. That would be the brown wires and also the license plate illumination wire run is tapped off that wire run/circuit. That is circuit reference #21.
The red side of each light fixture pigtail represents the left stop/turn filament (circuit #115) and the right stop/turn filament (circuit # 117) of the bulbs. If the proper bulbs are installed (the numbers must match each other), the brighter of the two filaments is the stop/turn filament (slightly higher wattage rating).
Therefore, your reasoning regarding the function of the colored wires is incorrect...but close!
I also see a scotchlok connector installed on a green wire...those were never used on any oem wiring system and are pure shit in my book. So that is a workaround to somewhere also! Chase that down and eliminate that type connector.
Of course, the red wire connected to the green wires using a twist-on is a definite no-no on any automotive application, and that obviously is a workaround for some wiring problem on the oem side...not an unusual thing to find but also totally bogus!
Are you using a probe-type test light to trace this stuff down? If not you should be. Simply ground the test lead and use the pick end to probe connectors, push through insulation, etc. Most test light bulbs are off sufficient wattage to load the turn signal flasher and make it operate (heat), just give it time to react. The stop light and turn signal wire runs are "shared", but the ground for each is through the bulb base and into the light fixture to the body and then back to the battery through the sheetmetal.
As you can see, the tail light circuit is a "shared" circuit with both tail light filaments running off a single feed conductor in "parallel" mode. That would be the brown wires and also the license plate illumination wire run is tapped off that wire run/circuit. That is circuit reference #21.
The red side of each light fixture pigtail represents the left stop/turn filament (circuit #115) and the right stop/turn filament (circuit # 117) of the bulbs. If the proper bulbs are installed (the numbers must match each other), the brighter of the two filaments is the stop/turn filament (slightly higher wattage rating).
Therefore, your reasoning regarding the function of the colored wires is incorrect...but close!
I also see a scotchlok connector installed on a green wire...those were never used on any oem wiring system and are pure shit in my book. So that is a workaround to somewhere also! Chase that down and eliminate that type connector.
Of course, the red wire connected to the green wires using a twist-on is a definite no-no on any automotive application, and that obviously is a workaround for some wiring problem on the oem side...not an unusual thing to find but also totally bogus!
Are you using a probe-type test light to trace this stuff down? If not you should be. Simply ground the test lead and use the pick end to probe connectors, push through insulation, etc. Most test light bulbs are off sufficient wattage to load the turn signal flasher and make it operate (heat), just give it time to react. The stop light and turn signal wire runs are "shared", but the ground for each is through the bulb base and into the light fixture to the body and then back to the battery through the sheetmetal.
Korllach
Member
Bare with me, I am typing this through a huge afghan sinus headache attack.
Since 117 is the only thing going into that clear/ black connector, and everything else has been cut before that connector I could realistically just get rid of that connector and wire up something else?
And just so I get it right
115 goes to the bright fillament (red) on the left or drivers side lense
117 goes to the bright fillament (red)on the right or passengers side
21 goes to both brown wires on the less bright fillament and is also wired into the license plate light.
That was what was messing me up.
Since 117 is the only thing going into that clear/ black connector, and everything else has been cut before that connector I could realistically just get rid of that connector and wire up something else?
And just so I get it right
115 goes to the bright fillament (red) on the left or drivers side lense
117 goes to the bright fillament (red)on the right or passengers side
21 goes to both brown wires on the less bright fillament and is also wired into the license plate light.
That was what was messing me up.
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Korllach
Member
Wiring is all done, cleaned up the underside, and had some issues with the right tail light.
Turns out this was hiding behind the housing.
Fixed that.
Got the new master cyl in from Mike @ IHOnly
and got the old one out.
The hose connections on the front are different, and this one looks like it has a bleeder on the master. Quite a bit different than the old school IH one.
I tried to get the old school snap ring out of the old IH mc so I could transplant the push rod.... Aaaand yeah... So far, I have yet to be able to getthat snap ring out.
Going to take them down to a buddies shop today and see if we can wrestle that push rod out.
Turns out this was hiding behind the housing.
Fixed that.
Got the new master cyl in from Mike @ IHOnly
and got the old one out.
The hose connections on the front are different, and this one looks like it has a bleeder on the master. Quite a bit different than the old school IH one.
I tried to get the old school snap ring out of the old IH mc so I could transplant the push rod.... Aaaand yeah... So far, I have yet to be able to getthat snap ring out.
Going to take them down to a buddies shop today and see if we can wrestle that push rod out.
Korllach
Member
My buddy helped me get that retention ring out of the old one, and get the push rod out. It was pretty nasty in there.
One problem... The bore on the old one, and the bore on the new one are 2 different sizes.
The pushrod is also a little different. The new master cyl seems to want a longer pushrod, and one that will atually fit through the small hole into the guts of it where the old one had a seal in the shape of one of those cones you put on your dog floating around the shaft of the pushrod. You would then put yourretention ring around that, and that is what created the seal.
Making the old pushrod work with the new mc required me lining up the rounded end of the pushrod into the slot of the new mc using the new boot as a retention to keep that pushrod up against the mc and removing the spring attached to the dash that kept the pedal in the up position. As of now the clutch pedal keeps the push rod on the mc.
I know I will need to find a new push rod for that mc/ clutch application, however as of now. Henry moves forward and backwards and that is good!
One problem... The bore on the old one, and the bore on the new one are 2 different sizes.
The pushrod is also a little different. The new master cyl seems to want a longer pushrod, and one that will atually fit through the small hole into the guts of it where the old one had a seal in the shape of one of those cones you put on your dog floating around the shaft of the pushrod. You would then put yourretention ring around that, and that is what created the seal.
Making the old pushrod work with the new mc required me lining up the rounded end of the pushrod into the slot of the new mc using the new boot as a retention to keep that pushrod up against the mc and removing the spring attached to the dash that kept the pedal in the up position. As of now the clutch pedal keeps the push rod on the mc.
I know I will need to find a new push rod for that mc/ clutch application, however as of now. Henry moves forward and backwards and that is good!
Korllach
Member
A little update.
I drove henry around the block a couple of times, and then took him to the gas station to get some fuel.
Decided to see how well he would do driving to work on Friday.
So we loaded up and headed to the office 24 miles away.
From caldwell to eagle, he ran fine, did 50-55 all the way there (guestimating due to the fact the speedo cable is broke)
once I got into heavy traffic we were going nowhere fast. After about 20 mins of that, henry coughed a couple of times, and it was over. It seemed like he had run out of fuel.
Now I know the fuel gauge was acting wonky because I filled it up, but the gauge only read 3/4ths of a tank. And I had not put many miles on it so there was no way that fuel tank was empty.
I noticed that there was a small fuel leak though where the brass fitting connects the hard line to the tank. Just a few drip drips.
Tried to get him started and wouldnt go. So I figured, well there must have been some shit in the tank that finally clogged up my first fuel filter.
I went to shucks and got a couple of see through plastic fuel filters and proceeded to remove the soft lines from the first filter. Took the top line off and it was spewing gas out of that filter like no tomorrow. So obviously that wasnt blocked.
So I went to the filter I had between the pump and the carb. Replaced it, hit the power and it started pumping fuel.
Cool! So I started driving back home (I had to leave henry on the side of the road for a while before I could get the filters and head to the house)
so I make it about 4 miles down the road, round a corner onto a 2 lane black top going back to caldwell, and he coughs and then nothing. No fuel again.
So I get out and change the other fuel filter. Hit the power, no fuel transferring at all. So I dumped a gallon of fuel in and was waiting to see if by sheer gravity we could push some fuel through those lines.
No luck.
Called my father in law and he came and got me with the land cruiser and we towed it back to his place.
I figured we had some debris in the line and so we unhooked the hard line from the fuel tank and started snaking it with some wire we had. Snaked the piss out of all the hard lines then put everything back together (gas was draining into a bucket at that point) . Hit the power and nothing, no fuel filling the filters at all. So I took the fuel pump and put a piece of hose on the intake end and the output end. And stuck the intake into the bucket of gas, and pointed the output to the bucket of gas, hit the power, and nothing, no suction at all.
So here it is, right around 9pm and we load up the bad fuel pump and take it to vato zone, they warranty replace it for me, and I amo n my way.
Put the new one in, get all the hose clamps tightened down. Hit the power and fuel is pumpin like there was not tomorrow.
Sweet!
So I took henry back home on his first night drive.
Tried to start henry this morning to move him into the drive way, and he wouldnt start. Seemed like no fuel was getting into the carb or the carb wasnt delivering fuel.
I took the air cleaner off and dumped a little bit of fuel down the carb to see if I could get it to turn over. It turned over and sputtered a bit then died.
So being a bit perplexed, I squeezed the fuel line up next to where fuel goes into the carb (the hard line taht screws into the 1904) and smacked the carb a little bit with the ass end of a screw driver.
Cranked the engine and it started up, and then backfired up through the carb once. Then ran fine.
It seems like it has backfired up through the carb once before, and it sounds like it is an issue with timing.
I drove henry around the block a couple of times, and then took him to the gas station to get some fuel.
Decided to see how well he would do driving to work on Friday.
So we loaded up and headed to the office 24 miles away.
From caldwell to eagle, he ran fine, did 50-55 all the way there (guestimating due to the fact the speedo cable is broke)
once I got into heavy traffic we were going nowhere fast. After about 20 mins of that, henry coughed a couple of times, and it was over. It seemed like he had run out of fuel.
Now I know the fuel gauge was acting wonky because I filled it up, but the gauge only read 3/4ths of a tank. And I had not put many miles on it so there was no way that fuel tank was empty.
I noticed that there was a small fuel leak though where the brass fitting connects the hard line to the tank. Just a few drip drips.
Tried to get him started and wouldnt go. So I figured, well there must have been some shit in the tank that finally clogged up my first fuel filter.
I went to shucks and got a couple of see through plastic fuel filters and proceeded to remove the soft lines from the first filter. Took the top line off and it was spewing gas out of that filter like no tomorrow. So obviously that wasnt blocked.
So I went to the filter I had between the pump and the carb. Replaced it, hit the power and it started pumping fuel.
Cool! So I started driving back home (I had to leave henry on the side of the road for a while before I could get the filters and head to the house)
so I make it about 4 miles down the road, round a corner onto a 2 lane black top going back to caldwell, and he coughs and then nothing. No fuel again.
So I get out and change the other fuel filter. Hit the power, no fuel transferring at all. So I dumped a gallon of fuel in and was waiting to see if by sheer gravity we could push some fuel through those lines.
No luck.
Called my father in law and he came and got me with the land cruiser and we towed it back to his place.
I figured we had some debris in the line and so we unhooked the hard line from the fuel tank and started snaking it with some wire we had. Snaked the piss out of all the hard lines then put everything back together (gas was draining into a bucket at that point) . Hit the power and nothing, no fuel filling the filters at all. So I took the fuel pump and put a piece of hose on the intake end and the output end. And stuck the intake into the bucket of gas, and pointed the output to the bucket of gas, hit the power, and nothing, no suction at all.
So here it is, right around 9pm and we load up the bad fuel pump and take it to vato zone, they warranty replace it for me, and I amo n my way.
Put the new one in, get all the hose clamps tightened down. Hit the power and fuel is pumpin like there was not tomorrow.
Sweet!
So I took henry back home on his first night drive.
Tried to start henry this morning to move him into the drive way, and he wouldnt start. Seemed like no fuel was getting into the carb or the carb wasnt delivering fuel.
I took the air cleaner off and dumped a little bit of fuel down the carb to see if I could get it to turn over. It turned over and sputtered a bit then died.
So being a bit perplexed, I squeezed the fuel line up next to where fuel goes into the carb (the hard line taht screws into the 1904) and smacked the carb a little bit with the ass end of a screw driver.
Cranked the engine and it started up, and then backfired up through the carb once. Then ran fine.
It seems like it has backfired up through the carb once before, and it sounds like it is an issue with timing.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
You are having a fuel delivery issue...still. There is contamination throughout the system that is intermittent blocking flow. And debris has obviously hit the carburetor inlet needle and seat.
Do not whack that carb, simply take it apart and clean! I have to toss out carb bodies all the time that have been cracked/distorted/bent/etc. From lovetaps to "unstick" a needle/seat.
The electric fuel pump you installed has a "check valve" internally that was also contaminated, that is why it failed. Any fuel pump (mechanical or electric) installed on old, trashy tank(s) simply must have a filter installed before the pump in order to protect it.
I had one of these same facet electric pumps fail on me this past Thursday due to debris inside, that one had been used only 20 minutes or so and is used only for transferring fuel from one tank/can to another or for running dead dogs in the shop when the mechanical pump is dead. Spent about an hour of unproductive time cleaning it out to bring back to life, it did have a filter on the inlet side but shit finer than 50 microns went right through the filter element and "stuck" the internal check valve.
Spitting back and popping thought the carb is indicative of a carb starving for fuel (running out of liquid) due to an extremely lean mixture being created just before the fuel supply is totally exhausted.
Do not whack that carb, simply take it apart and clean! I have to toss out carb bodies all the time that have been cracked/distorted/bent/etc. From lovetaps to "unstick" a needle/seat.
The electric fuel pump you installed has a "check valve" internally that was also contaminated, that is why it failed. Any fuel pump (mechanical or electric) installed on old, trashy tank(s) simply must have a filter installed before the pump in order to protect it.
I had one of these same facet electric pumps fail on me this past Thursday due to debris inside, that one had been used only 20 minutes or so and is used only for transferring fuel from one tank/can to another or for running dead dogs in the shop when the mechanical pump is dead. Spent about an hour of unproductive time cleaning it out to bring back to life, it did have a filter on the inlet side but shit finer than 50 microns went right through the filter element and "stuck" the internal check valve.
Spitting back and popping thought the carb is indicative of a carb starving for fuel (running out of liquid) due to an extremely lean mixture being created just before the fuel supply is totally exhausted.
Korllach
Member
I had a little bit of time to look over a search for 1904 and was overwhelmed by the results. Is there a specific thread that documents the teardown of the 1904? Do I need to tear the whole thing down, or just the part that has the hard line running into the screw in valve where the fuel comes in?
Also, when your facet pump failed, is there anything you can do to get the debris outof the check valve? Or is it pretty much done for?
Right now I have it set up such as this
[fuel tank] --> {fuel filter} --->{fuel filter attached to facet pump}{fuel pump}-----> {fuel filter}-----[carb]
Also, when your facet pump failed, is there anything you can do to get the debris outof the check valve? Or is it pretty much done for?
Right now I have it set up such as this
[fuel tank] --> {fuel filter} --->{fuel filter attached to facet pump}{fuel pump}-----> {fuel filter}-----[carb]