345 Rebuild

GaryOR

GaryOR

Member
I purchased a '78 Scout II for my 14 y/o's first vehicle as a project. We were pleased at the overall condition of the vehicle and the fact that the po just put in a rebuilt 345. Unfortunately, the po has po'd me. So far I have found coil wires flipped, missing coil hot wire, scrambled plug wires, fuel lines flipped at the pump :yikes:, and a few other things.

However, I've begun to beat my head against the wall trying to get it to start. Replaced starter. Getting spark to all 8. Rebuilt the Holley 2210 (that he incompletely rebuilt).

We got a couple of very short runs by directly spraying gas into carb, but no longer get anything other than a very quick fire. Occasional carb backfire. Slow turning over (from the beginning).

Oh yeah, during one of the runs, we blew lots of rat/mice next out of one of the pipes.

The fuel pump is new and functioning properly though I'm not so certain about the carb itself.

I know this is kind of a huge question, but does anyone have any suggestions on where to start?

I don't want to resort to taking it to a shop, but May have to if all else fails. Problem is, I don't know that I would find anyone that knows that much about scouts. Anyone live near oregon city, or that is interested in coming over?
 
Yes, assuming I did it correctly: removed distributor, checked for compression on 8, then manually rotated to align the timing Mark, then replaced distributor with rotor pointed at 8.

Tried it twice.
 
And you then double and triple verified the plug wires have been run correctly in accordance with the firing order? Did you try rotating the dizz a bit in either direction to see if that helps with cranking speed? It is very easy to stab a dizz off by one tooth also. Even the old pros pull that rabbit out every once in awhile. The slow cranking and potential carb fuel delivery issues are your biggest hurdles. You need to find out why the engine is turning over so slowly. Is it from voltage drop due to a problem in your electrical somewhere? Or is it that the timing is off just enough? Then you need to verify that the carb is capable of delivering adequate fuel to the combustion chamber.
 
Oregon city is one of several epicenters of the known universe of IH in the northwest! We have many club members living within 20 miles of your location that have been through this same thing time and again!

Also, you and your son are welcome to bring the rig down (if practical) for a one-day session at binder university here in leaburg. I gayrondamteeya it will run at the end of the session! Tuition will be suspended for that orientation.

Most common is the incorrect wiring sequence for the distributor cap. Use this stickee to verify:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/4130-installing-distributor.html

If ya have spark at the correct moment, have compression in the cylinder, and have fuel mixed with air in the cylinder, it will run.

Yawl need to be at our club meeting onn June 3 in salem in order to hook up with everyone in the nw who know's how to do this stuff!:

I.h.s.t.o - IH Parts America

And:

IHSTO home
 
scoutboy74 said:
and you then double and triple verified the plug wires have been run correctly in accordance with the firing order? Did you try rotating the dizz a bit in either direction to see if that helps with cranking speed? It is very easy to stab a dizz off by one tooth also. Even the old pros pull that rabbit out every once in awhile. The slow cranking and potential carb fuel delivery issues are your biggest hurdles. You need to find out why the engine is turning over so slowly. Is it from voltage drop due to a problem in your electrical somewhere? Or is it that the timing is off just enough? Then you need to verify that the carb is capable of delivering adequate fuel to the combustion chamber.
Click to expand...

Triple and quadruple checked the wires. Pulled and regapped all of the plugs (don't trust the po). Tried turning over with all plugs out also to see if that affected turning over speed-no.

Have the dist bracket loose to try advancing/retarding. The only thing that I have found there is that retarding is the only way to get any fire at all.

Have 2 different batteries that I use with a charger attached to while running. Have 12v at the battery that drops to 8v at the coil when cranking.
 
That sounds like base timing is too many degrees out. These engines generally prefer some advance timing in the neighborhood of 10 degrees, but an excessive amount will cause the engine to crank over harder. You should in no way need all that extra amperage on tap to crank the engine over in no longer than 15 second bursts with sufficient starter cool down in between. This is provided all systems are go from the battery all the way to the dizzy. Just my .02, but I'd jump on mayben's generous offer like a fat kid on a cake. That'll git-r-dun with a minimum of grab-assin' and you'd lern all kinds uh gud shnizz too! As a current student, I give the binder u my highest endorsement.
 
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