Hello everyone. Im new to working on vehicles and scouts. I have a 1978 Scout II, with a 345, 2bll carb, 727 tranny, 3:73s, and bench seats. After I repair a hole in the floor pan, I plan on putting on a polished 4 barrel intake I got for free and a 1405 edlebrock carb. I was wondering is there any other steps other than removing everything, putting on a new gasket, torqueing everything down? Also what is the torque specs for for the intake and carb? Im not sure what kind ( if any) performance I can expect with the new intake and manifold, does anyone have any idea of what kind of improvements I can expect. Thank you for everyones time and patience. Any help would be appreciated. Have a great day!!
345 Questions
- Thread starter Don Mega
- Start date
Scooter
Active member
Welcome
there will be a few of the more experienced teckies chiming on your questions. But seeing as how ya gotta deal with the smog crapola, you maybe limited to some mods
I do suggest that ya read up through the forums here. There is a lot of good info and resources here.
Plus if you are out here in califunkia and in north bay area, we do have somewhat of a regular gathering during a work day or two
there will be a few of the more experienced teckies chiming on your questions. But seeing as how ya gotta deal with the smog crapola, you maybe limited to some mods
I do suggest that ya read up through the forums here. There is a lot of good info and resources here.
Plus if you are out here in califunkia and in north bay area, we do have somewhat of a regular gathering during a work day or two
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
I wrote this up earlier but because I'm a d.a. I lost it. Here we go again.
Welcome to ihon I think you'll find everything you need to get you going down the road straight and true. Glad you chose to hang out.
This is what I do when I install an intake manifold. Follow the steps the best you can and it'll be sound. Some of what I write May be common knowledge but better to just put it down
plan on renewing the lifter valley cover gaskets. Straighten all of the deformation from the bolts being tightened. A block of hard wood and a hammer work well. Set the cover edge on the block upside down and coaks it back. I use a very light application of ultra black silicone by permatex on the gasket both sides and gingerly snug the bolts up go by hand and just so the sealant squeezes out a bit. To tight anf the cover will bend and leak.
Remove the valve covers and old manifold and clean the head and new manifold faces so clean you can eat off of them (not that you would want to). Scrape all remnants of the old gasket residue and sealant. Wipe the faces down with carb. Or brake cleaner. No finger prints are wanted. Remove all metal burrs and raised edges.
Set the very clean manifold down in the manifold valley without the gaskets or sealant. This is to make sure things are square and flat. The two mating faces should be parallel and the manifold should not rock around but a little bit.
The main manifold gaskets you have are going to be the formed metal type with raised areas to seal as they are tightened down. Wipe them down with carb cleaner. Set them on the head and line them up with the bolt holes and ports as close as you can. You will see 3 tabs sticking up above the valve cover seating surface. Bend the 2 end tabs over the top edge of the head so they will hang there nice and lined up and not slide down. This makes the final assembly way easier.
You will need a special but easily found spray sealer called permatex 80697 copper spray gasket. It applies like spray paint. You need to spray two medium even coats. Allow the sealant to dry to a till tacky between coats and before final assembly. I spray a light coat around the water ports on the manifold and head too.
Set your coated gaskets in place hanging on your bent tabs.
Carefully set the manifold in place being careful to land it spot on and lined up. Some of the manifold bolts thread through to the oily side of your engine so apply some sealant to the end threads and install them. Tighten the bolts from the inside out going in a cross wise manner. Ultimate torque is 35ft/lb. Use 2 or 3 stages like 15 then 25 then 35 ft/lb. Follow the same tightening pattern for each pass.
For performance. You will notice better top end power and if you are easy on the throttle and have your cruise mixtures on the money better economy.
Welcome to ihon I think you'll find everything you need to get you going down the road straight and true. Glad you chose to hang out.
This is what I do when I install an intake manifold. Follow the steps the best you can and it'll be sound. Some of what I write May be common knowledge but better to just put it down
plan on renewing the lifter valley cover gaskets. Straighten all of the deformation from the bolts being tightened. A block of hard wood and a hammer work well. Set the cover edge on the block upside down and coaks it back. I use a very light application of ultra black silicone by permatex on the gasket both sides and gingerly snug the bolts up go by hand and just so the sealant squeezes out a bit. To tight anf the cover will bend and leak.
Remove the valve covers and old manifold and clean the head and new manifold faces so clean you can eat off of them (not that you would want to). Scrape all remnants of the old gasket residue and sealant. Wipe the faces down with carb. Or brake cleaner. No finger prints are wanted. Remove all metal burrs and raised edges.
Set the very clean manifold down in the manifold valley without the gaskets or sealant. This is to make sure things are square and flat. The two mating faces should be parallel and the manifold should not rock around but a little bit.
The main manifold gaskets you have are going to be the formed metal type with raised areas to seal as they are tightened down. Wipe them down with carb cleaner. Set them on the head and line them up with the bolt holes and ports as close as you can. You will see 3 tabs sticking up above the valve cover seating surface. Bend the 2 end tabs over the top edge of the head so they will hang there nice and lined up and not slide down. This makes the final assembly way easier.
You will need a special but easily found spray sealer called permatex 80697 copper spray gasket. It applies like spray paint. You need to spray two medium even coats. Allow the sealant to dry to a till tacky between coats and before final assembly. I spray a light coat around the water ports on the manifold and head too.
Set your coated gaskets in place hanging on your bent tabs.
Carefully set the manifold in place being careful to land it spot on and lined up. Some of the manifold bolts thread through to the oily side of your engine so apply some sealant to the end threads and install them. Tighten the bolts from the inside out going in a cross wise manner. Ultimate torque is 35ft/lb. Use 2 or 3 stages like 15 then 25 then 35 ft/lb. Follow the same tightening pattern for each pass.
For performance. You will notice better top end power and if you are easy on the throttle and have your cruise mixtures on the money better economy.
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