318 in a scout II

Monte Lauer

Active member
I am thinking about dropping a 318 in my trail Scout. I have the motor and a converted mopar 727 with IH output shaft and Dana 20. What I am wanting to know is will my stock Scout radiator be sufficient enough to cool the 318. I am planning on running a shroud and mechanical fan.
 
We did it in a 800, about 12 years ago and it worked fine. You May have to have the necks on the radiator changed.
 
And even a punky IH oem crossflow heat exchanger inna sii is far more efficient thanna stocker s800 radiator!!!

I really think a stocker 273/318/360 chrysler is an excellent choice for an sii or even an s800. Most especially witha converted 727...it's a natural...and a lightly-built motor would be the killer deal!

As in any swapparoo, spacing the fan the proper distance from a shrouded radiator is the key to heat exchange. If ya plan ta stuff tha motor down and back, then plant the radiator package down and back also, keeping the fan "slightly" offset in the shroud same as on oem sv/sii package.

Ya might look atta a/t radiator outta a late 70's/80's dodge van, bet it's close to the same footprint azza sii, the tranny will hook up, and ya can run an auxiliary tranny cooler real nice.
 
Or just do the Mark viii or comp. Electric fan swap. I know you're not a fan Mike but hey it does make it pretty simple.
 
Not a fan offa sparkfan...but I would use that lincoln fan you've worked out! That's the only one I'd even think about! In fact, I've bragged on your rig to monte many times!

Can you get me the Ford p/n for that assembly??? If I have it, I May be able to source those new through dorman affiliates which opens a whole realm of "possibles"! Especially since it matches the sii core support/rad package so nicely!
 
I would think about an electric fan system again if it works. My Scout has an electric fan in it now, but it doesn't seem to keep things cool enough when pulling hills. I can drive all day long on level ground at 180, but give me a long hill climb and she'll get 230 and over.:yikes:
 
Personally monte...I think we need to spend some quality time together on the trail rig cooling issues! That involves the use of thermocouples, cooling system pressure test instruments, and a couplea infrared thermometers. The "temp" reading on the oem instrument really don't mean squat until it's been verified. And 230f onna temp gauge ain't hot as long as the numbers come back down once the "load" is reduced. That's how this stuff is supposed ta work! Increased load = increased heat= increased heat to be transfered to the surrounding atmosphere in our case!

As Chad sez (and you and I have discussed), I'm not a sparkfan fan. But if properly executed, they can be effective. And first off...the entire electrical system needs to be up to snuff! A properly done sparkfan eats amps like I eat chili and chupee!

And then the fan has to create full airflow across the heat exchanger in coordination with the engine cooling requirements, in harmony with the thermostatic control. That's why "modern" rigs can use sparkfans, a computer makes all the decisions based upon sensory input well in advance of "need", not several different mechanical devices fighting each other.

And most all those rigs are bottom breathers or combo breathers with airflow management technology far removed from that sheet of plywood aka "Scout II" that is lumbering down the road/trail!

That's why oldskool deetroit v8 motors go hand-in-hand with engine driven fans and proper heat exchange capacity which incorporate a shroud to maximize sukkage at the proper moment in time!
 
personally monte...I think we need to spend some quality time together on the trail rig cooling issues! That involves the use of thermocouples, cooling system pressure test instruments, and a couplea infrared thermometers. The "temp" reading on the oem instrument really don't mean squat until it's been verified. And 230f onna temp gauge ain't hot as long as the numbers come back down once the "load" is reduced. That's how this stuff is supposed ta work! Increased load = increased heat= increased heat to be transfered to the surrounding atmosphere in our case!

As Chad sez (and you and I have discussed), I'm not a sparkfan fan. But if properly executed, they can be effective. And first off...the entire electrical system needs to be up to snuff! A properly done sparkfan eats amps like I eat chili and chupee!

And then the fan has to create full airflow across the heat exchanger in coordination with the engine cooling requirements, in harmony with the thermostatic control. That's why "modern" rigs can use sparkfans, a computer makes all the decisions based upon sensory input well in advance of "need", not several different mechanical devices fighting each other.

And most all those rigs are bottom breathers or combo breathers with airflow management technology far removed from that sheet of plywood aka "Scout II" that is lumbering down the road/trail!

That's why oldskool deetroit v8 motors go hand-in-hand with engine driven fans and proper heat exchange capacity which incorporate a shroud to maximize sukkage at the proper moment in time!

I believe what you are sayin. That is exactly why I want to run an engine driven fan on my 318. As far as the lil pink Scout is concerned I still want a rear mounted radiator with electric fan cooling.
 
Mike, I will try to remember to get you the part number tonight. As for the electric control, the spal switch is a very reasonable solution to this issue. Mine has all been tested in the shop now. Engages 15 seconds after engine turn on kicks up a notch when a/c is engaged and increases amps as the temp climbs. I have obviously not tested under long term driving yet but so far I love it. Of course my wiring is all new and most of my vehicle is now computer controlled.
 
It's in my build on the bb but the IH only section was down last time I looked. I can give you quick synapses. Once you get the fan, you will need to cut the stock mounting brackets off. From there a little trimming of the Mark viii fan shroud is needed but very little. Then simply mount it. It May be easiest to pull the radiator to do it, I just used the transmission cooler hold downs to mount it (idea stolen from rock tractor) that you can find at any auto parts store. The spal switch is very straight forward. You wire it to hot, ground, a/c if you have it (sure you don’t) and you put a temp sensor in dedicated for it. Then mount the spal, best to do it in a location that allows access as it is programmable.
Here are a few pictures, to be honest I don't have any of strictly the fan install
p1010163.jpg

p1010166-1.jpg

p1010169-1.jpg

And this is the switch
p1010133.jpg
 
Monte, and Mike,

just update on the spal switch and Mark viii fan. I got my beastie running this weekend, and was able to finally test the set up under running conditions. In shop test only, it’s obviously not real world yet however I can tell you that I am really happy with the results so for. I could not believe how easy the switch was to program and how well the fan cools the motor. Probably one of the best mods that I did.
 
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