304 air intake
- Thread starter Pleil
- Start date
Tim Potter
Member
"cold" air might more accurately described as "fresh" air if you are drawing your air from outside the engine compartment.
I personally do not run this but, a friend of my does. It's completely home made and looks very cool. He tells me that it is so effective that he had to rejet his carb once it was installed because it got too lean.
It's pretty simple. I will do my best to describe it to you. The stock snout on the stock air cleaner housing was removed. In it's place a piece of sheetmetal matching the curve of the ac housing was welded in place with two short 2" diameter air intake tubes welded to it. Two lengths of flexible hose clamped over the round tubes then attach to a similar sheetmetal arrangement attached to the back of the passenger side head light. This allows intake air to be drawn from outside the engine compartment.
I personally do not run this but, a friend of my does. It's completely home made and looks very cool. He tells me that it is so effective that he had to rejet his carb once it was installed because it got too lean.
It's pretty simple. I will do my best to describe it to you. The stock snout on the stock air cleaner housing was removed. In it's place a piece of sheetmetal matching the curve of the ac housing was welded in place with two short 2" diameter air intake tubes welded to it. Two lengths of flexible hose clamped over the round tubes then attach to a similar sheetmetal arrangement attached to the back of the passenger side head light. This allows intake air to be drawn from outside the engine compartment.
Bill Bennett
Member
With the 304 in your Scout, measure the space between the top of your filter housing to the underside of the hood. Whatever that amount is, just look for a filter element that will fit without lifting the lid enough to touch the hood. I found the k&n e-1100 filter worked well but that was on a 68 Travelall.
Bill bennett
Bill Bennett
Member
Sure, that will allow more air to be 'available' but remember, you have a relatively slow turning engine with limited airflow needs even at its upper limits. Consider the 350 cfm Holley 2300 carb has venturi openings of 1 3/16" but with the boosters and support brackets, the actual available size is much smaller. Look at the opening of the stock air filter housing and you can see it can pass more air than the carb can use - with a stock motor. That same housing and filter element is used on the 392 engine with the 4bbl carb. Same applies with the exhaust manifolds.
You can go with a taller filter element in the stock housing - as long as you can close the hood and you have enough length on the center post of the carb! Consider the k&n e-1100 element. It is used on the chrysler 360 engine which has higher airflow needs than our slower IH 304 engines. This taller filter element will lift the lid of the IH housing and allow air into the housing all around the edge of the lid. You keep the original pc hose connections. If you must pass the smog checks, just swap back to the stock filter element when needed.
Using the 'aftermarket' lid and base defeats the air silenceing feature of the factory housing. If that constant 'sucking sound' doesn't bother you then that will be your choice.
Bill bennett
You can go with a taller filter element in the stock housing - as long as you can close the hood and you have enough length on the center post of the carb! Consider the k&n e-1100 element. It is used on the chrysler 360 engine which has higher airflow needs than our slower IH 304 engines. This taller filter element will lift the lid of the IH housing and allow air into the housing all around the edge of the lid. You keep the original pc hose connections. If you must pass the smog checks, just swap back to the stock filter element when needed.
Using the 'aftermarket' lid and base defeats the air silenceing feature of the factory housing. If that constant 'sucking sound' doesn't bother you then that will be your choice.
Bill bennett