2bbl # 6426 info!

jeff campbell

Active member
2bbl # 6425 info!

Had this carb on my '71-1210 392,auto t'all.a few years ago.installed on 345-'71-1210 345.can't get the float set rite?can't get gas to come outa the bleed screw on the side.gonna take it apart ( front bowl off) today an see whats up.any tips would be great.from you carb guru's.tia! Jeff( will idle for a while then run outa gas)
 
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Jeff,

sorry I don't know the carb by the #6426.


It's a 2 bbl Holley I assume and would have only one bowl.
I would only give you the obvious checks until the bowl comes off. Has the carb been sitting??

Fuel pressure?
Look for debris that would block the fuel inlet to the inlet needle. Maybe a screen?

Robert
 
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Re: 2bbl # 6425 info!# correction

Ok here we go.corrected the list # to 6425,the # below it is-# 2480.on the front of the choke flap.now the ? Is,how do you set the float right?flat?horizontal.tia! Jeff
 

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Jeff,
it varies with fuel pressure but if you hold the bowl upside down set the float to 3/8"(use a 3/8 bolt as a gage) from the top of the float to the top of the bowl. This is a starting point and should give you fuel up to the level hole. Then adjust to give you the level running.

I like the level about 1/16 below the hole while running.

With the bowl off can you get flow past the inlet needle?

Robert
 
Thx Robert.havent taken it off or do you mean down?to let gas in? I did raise as if it were full,an cud not blow thru it with it all the way up as in the off position!Jeff
 
In your picture you show it right side up while holding the float up with your finger. Turn it over so the inlet valve adjuster screw is down and set the float so there is 3/8" from the top (not the lower edge) of the float and the adjacent edge of the bowl casting in the center.

One detail on the above rough float setting, this only applies to the brass float not the plastic ones. Also, when you reinstall the float and start it for the first time, leave the level plugs in and carefully remove them to check. I would recommend having a helper standing by to shut the engine off in the event you have a problem.

See if you get flow with the float down as if the fuel bowl is empty.

Rk
 
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Put the bowl back together an still same.can't get gas to come outa the bleed hole.I'm thinking as you said before,fuel pressure!? Gona put a gauge on the pump an see what it's at.Jeff
 
Fuel pressure was it.thx Robert for the guidance.checked my fuel filter before the pump on the outside of the frame,an cud hardly blow thru it.hehe.my bad shuda checked it 1st. Now to get it stopped! Brake work next.have a good day.Jeff
 
Where should I start on the idle/mixture screws on the side of the front bowl.turn in all the way,then 2-1/2 turns out,then keep unscrewing out a 1/4 of aturn at a time? Tia! Jeff
 
Justa followup for the id on this carb...

The list 6426 is a Holley aftermarket performance 2300/centerhung bowl mixer. A somewhat rare 600cfm version (current version is 500cfm). Used primarily in "class" racing competition under various sanctioning bodies in circle track and some drag race classes.

The current list 4412 is more widely known/used, while the list 7448 (350cfm rating) is by far the most popular/suitable mixer for conversions on 304/345 motors.

Robert's version of initial float setting is right on. When building these carbs for IH apps, I invert the bowl and set the float where it''s surface (flat area) is absolutely parallel to the bottom surface of the bowl itself (eyeball method). That will be near perfect for a brass float, with a new Holley float needle assembly (viton-tip, not the steel or titanium alcohol needle). The intake manifold onna IH applicatipon sits the carb absolutely level when the rig is parked onna level surface, that is the starting point.

If equipped with either type of two different "plastic" floats, that level will have to be a tad lower, as those floats "float higher".

Once the engine is fully warm, then the actual fuel level setting is completed by removing the sight plug and tweeking the needle seat up or down as needed to bring the fuel level to just below (I run 'em 1/16" below) the bowl thread for the sight hole.

The standard fuel inlet pressure for all the oem-design Holley modular carbs is 5.5psi. The oem standard for IH production and any aftermarket replacement mechanical fuel pump is also 5.5psi nominal with a volume of 27 gallons per hour at 4000 engine rpm. That info can be verified in the "ct-404-l data book" document I posted last week. It's also contained in many Holley service references, nothing special about that spec.

The fuel overflow is coming from the bowl vent which is what it's supposed to do when the fuel volume control system malfunctions for whatever reason. Any carb fuel bowl system must be vented to the atmosphere in some manner.

On these modular carbs, never "bend" or tweek any portion of the float itself, if ya do that, you will never be able to "adjust" the fuel level correctly. I see tweeked floats all the time where someone has tried to adjust 'em like some other brand carb, just will not work! Some of these carbs are equipped with a non-adjustable float needle set and those must be used with a float that has not been butched. I prefer to not use those type needle/seats, I've got tons of new ones sittin' inna container.
 
Thx Mike,the list # is 6425.,as I corrected up above w/pictures.now I just need to fine tune it.yes,it does have the giant brass float.---Jeff
 
where should I start on the idle/mixture screws on the side of the front bowl.turn in all the way,then 2-1/2 turns out,then keep unscrewing out a 1/4 of aturn at a time? Tia! Jeff

Jeff I would start @ 1 3/4 turns out for a base line. It should idle there. Then set your curb idle. Then adjust them for best idle speed and smoothness. Best to usa a vacuum gauge and set idle mixture for highest vacuum.
If you don't know how to set best lean idle let me know and I will go over that.

Robert
 
Ok thx,do I put the vac gauge at the vaccum advance port?on the pass side of the bowl?I've never done this before.idle?thx-a bunch Robert.!Jeff
 
Jeff,
you want to use the true manifold vacuum. Like what the brake booster uses. I see one location in this picture. It looks to be plugged with a screw and comes from the carburetor base. Should suck really hard when running.:winky:

3004d1225648816-2bbl-6426-info-jayces-1st-halloween-trick-treat-nite-10-30-2008-062.jpg


Plug your gauge in there and adjust the mixture screws for best vacuum at the recommended curb idle speed iirc about 650-700 in neutral and at full running temperature. You May have to adjust several times from one to the other.

Robert
 
thx Mike,the list # is 6425.,as I corrected up above w/pictures.now I just need to fine tune it.yes,it does have the giant brass float.---Jeff

Yeah Jeff, I figgrd out the mis-type using my references, just didn't correct it myself. As I was typing my post this morning, my wife had a medical emergency and I had to cut it short.

The pot on the side of the metering block is "ported" vacuum, should see about 3"hg>5"hg at idle there, that is for the distributor connection. Manifold vacuum is that port in the throttle body, or the 3/8" manifold vacuum port in the rear of the throttle body on that carb.

Follow Robert's advice, he knows the drill!

She's doing ok tonite after being moved outta er and admitted to a room, won't know anymore until tomorrow, I just came home tonite to take care of the dawgs and then go back. So I'll be kinda outta the loop for the next few days.

Life happens.
 
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