22xx Swap for a 23xx

[Super Dave]

I have a 1974 series 100 pu, sv345 and tf727,
Holley 1510 dist. W/ pertronix 1481 conversion.
Ps, pb

the motor runs 22xx rebuilt carb.
R6676a
448670-c91
0033

it starts right up on one pump and idles well. It has the the typical flat spot off idle and I no longer want to mess with it. Tired of dying in the middle of an intersection! I am ordering a 2300 with electric choke to replace to 2210.

As seen in the photographs, (sorry for all the links... I don't know how to get the photographs "inline" with the text...) the po "optimized" the 345. I would like to remove and toss the smog pump and complete the "optimization" to its fullest potential.

Question:
can I remove the smog plumbing from the exhaust manifolds and plug the holes with the proper threaded fittings, without mucking up something else? If I get everything back to being dependable, a set of stans headers will solve this issue.

Question:
what are the two vacuum port fittings on either side of the rear intake manifold used for and can I "optimize" them with a plugs as well?

Question:
what is the vacuum "module?" on the firewall used for? It has nothing connected but has tees for vacuum lines. Does a properly "optimized" motor need this?

Question:
there are several loose electrical connectors on the passenger side of the motor. Any input as to their use and relevance would be appreciated.

Question:
the egr canister is taking up space and has nothing connected to it. Can it be removed and plug the manifold?

Question:
I want to replace the stock air filter housing with an open element filter setup. Any recommendations against this? If so, why?

Any other recommendations, suggestions or "secret" applications to consider in the ongoing resistance movement of the smognazis would be greatly appreciated.

Sd

 

[Big Truck]

Question:
can I remove the smog plumbing from the exhaust manifolds and plug the holes with the proper threaded fittings, without mucking up something else? If I get everything back to being dependable, a set of stans headers will solve this issue.

You can plug them without any ill effects to the motor, just another area to look for a leak

question:
what are the two vacuum port fittings on either side of the rear intake manifold used for and can I "optimize" them with a plugs as well?

Those are temp activated vac ports (coolant), you won't loose any vac without anything hooked up to them, with the correct plug you can block them.

Question:
the egr canister is taking up space and has nothing connected to it. Can it be removed and plug the manifold?

Yes, I got mine in the kit from ihon

question:
I want to replace the stock air filter housing with an open element filter setup. Any recommendations against this? If so, why?

It needs to be an offset filter housing if you want a big filter or a small filter housing for to clear the thermostat housing, on either you will have to modify the crank case breather with a filter or a run it into the filter housing.

I hope that helps a little, more knowledgeable people will probably chime in.

 

[Super Dave]

Big truck,

thanks for the input. I am heading out to the rig with wrenches in hand!

Re: the egr canister... What kit from ihon are you referring to?

Thanks!

 

[Big Truck]

They sell a 2300 350 cfm carb and kit with different options if you call them. Its not too hard make one with a thick piece of metal just trace the egr pattern out, cut, drill 2 holes, and add a gasket.

 

[Michael Mayben]

We have many threads in this forum regarding making "mods" to the entire engine peripherals system. However, since we are a business we are not going to ever make a recommendation to remove the oem devices unless the vehicle is going to be used only in an off-highway mode.

So...going forward, we'll assume that this rig will be used off-road only.

All intake manifold penetrations/vacuum switches penetrate the water jacket, so to delete those items the coolant must be partially drained. Those are vacuum switches operated only by engine coolant temperature and are used to make minor changes in ignition and carburetion peripheral settings when the vehicle is in use under all potential driving conditions. Eliminating all these items has no affect at all on engine operation if done correctly.

The n=8 a.I.r (air pump) tubes can be removed and the penetrations sealed with appropriate fittings. Again we've posted about this over and over so just do a search for typical methodology. Likewise the air pump itself is removed from it's bracket and set aside

the small module on the bulkhead is also an emissions device that would normally have a vacuum hookup, it's only used in a "deceleration" event from a cruising speed and is also controlled by engine temp. Simple remove it.

As for the evaporative emissions system, simply leave it alone. It's a totally passive implement and if connected oem it has absolutely no bearing on engine performance. Once you start screwing with it, then you must completely rework the entire fuel tank(s) ventilation plumbing also or the vehicle will actually appear to run out gasoline on a regular basis.

The egr valve can be eliminated, we have in stock a special block-off plate for that use. However, when eliminating egr that is actually functioning, you will most likely have to slightly retard the base engine timing so that you don't have detonation (ping) under a partial throttle load.

Non-connected wiring harness items are nothing. The harness itself is designed to be used in all versions of the fullsize vehicles of that era, no matter which engine and accessories were ordered into the rig at manufacture. These harnesses (and vehicles are nothing similar to the Scout II, so many things we do with these units can't be done to a Scout II and visa-versa.

Your oem air cleaner will only fit the 22xx series of carburetors due to it's mouth diameter which is a "special". All aftermarket air cleaners will have a 5-1/8" opening and also include a "punch-out" that is used to mount a fitting for connection to the oem flame arrestor located in the valve cover, works exactly the same as a stock unit.

The '74-'75 model year vehicles had the engines dropped down and moved back, there is a considerable amount of underhood room for nearly any air cleaner without impacting the hood.

I have two, fullsize rigs located here at the shophouse that have been optimized for off-highway use only. You are welcome to come up and take a look at 'em for reference purposes. This link goes to the installation process for exchanging the intake manifold and May be of interest:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/carb-tech/76-beer-can-maneefol-guapo.html

 

[Michael Mayben]

You might spend some time going through this thread. It involves a Scout II but the process is essentially the same for a fullsize ride:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...s/5391-engine-CPT-vacuum-users-emissions.html