22xx smog carb

[chico]

Ok so I have a 345 with a 2210. I rebuilt the 2210 with new power valve and soaked the carb installed a new float. Everything by the book(literally by the Holley book). Runs a ton better still stumbles a little. I also installed a new choke pull off which helped on start up. My question is tuning. I know you cant tune much of anything with these carbs but im looking for some good base numbers in timing,dwell,vacuum,advance. Ive been all through the threads and get so many diff numbers. So I guess im looking at you Mike! your input would be great. Also when my engine is warm the idel is really high tightening the idel screw does hardly anything. Vacuum leak?

Also my Scout is a 75 Scout 2 and I removed the smog pump and pluged the tubes to the exhaust manifold. But im wondering what is what vacuum lines do I really need? Can I ditch most of these lines now? I live in kali but for my year im smogged exempt. Ive heard some people preffer the egr valve and some hate it. I want to clean up the miles of rubber under the hood and give it a simple look without robbing the performance. (what little it has). So what vacuum lines do I really need? Do I need the egr? Or the little solenoid vacuum valve on the firewall? Anyway any help will do. Thanks for your time.

 

[Michael Mayben]

You should be able to easily set the curb idle speed using the throttle stop screw on the carb if you have backed off or eliminated the dashpot if so equipped. Also, you must have a strong throttle return spring set up in order to hold the throttle arm against it's stop.

With the po juryrig vacuum connections on these old vehicles, vacuum leaks are always an issue to work through.

If...you are going to "optimize" the entire engine package for off road use only, then the only vacuum plumbing needed is the connection between a "ported" vacuum connection on the carb and the distributor vacuum advance can, the manifold connection for the pcv, and the manifold connection for the power brake booster. Everything else can be eliminated including removing the egr valve and blocking it's port with a plate. You simply cannot half-ass eliminate some vacuum connections.

For ignition timing, forget what anyone else uses on their setup and do what works for your engine. I'd recommend that you look at this thread and try that scenario:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/2122-ignition-power-timing.html

 

[chico]

I just finished reading that thread. I remembered reading that a long time ago but I couldnt remember if it was on this forum. I should have figured since your the man. Ill try it tonight and let you know. I did hook up a vacuum to it and maxed out vacuum at 20mg fully advanced. Didnt hook up the timing light or rpm gauge.

I do still have the dash pot on it. I see it working sometimes but is there a way I can test it functioning properly? But I do see it move.

Im still getting fuel over flow. I need to adjust the float.

This will only be a weekend warrior, and 80% off road. Wont see much pavement unless headed to the con!

Thanks for your advice. Your the man!

 

[chico]

Ok, so I took the carb apart yesturday to fix the fuel "overflowing" issue. I fixed that, then noticed that the right "passenger" side jet wasnt spraying like the steady strong stream of the left side when I snapped the throttle. So looks like ill be taking the carb apart again tonight.

also I noticed that I put my mighty vac to my vacuum advance and couldnt even get the needle to move on the mighty vac. No matter how many times or how fast I pumped it I got no vacuum or movement of the needle. Does that mean my va is bad?

I think that anything with a diaphram is toast. How can you test an egr? Pretty sure im just gonna block it but I would like to know if its bad before I do that.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Michael Mayben]

If the power valve actuator won't react to a vacuum signal, then it's feed passage is problematic and/or the actuator is actually bound in it's hole. It will have to be removed for cleaning and rehab! In order for the power valve system to operate it must work correctly. And if it's currently stuck in the "down" position, the power valve is open all the time resulting in a jetting configuration that is about 6>10 steps richer than it should be.

To test an egr valve in the simple manner...with the engine running, carefully reach underneath the egr valve and press up with your fingers to "open" the valve. When that happens the engine will start to stumble badly at idle and possibly die.

The best way to test the valve is simply disconnect the vacuum hose and plug it, then connect your mityvac and pump. When the valve opens, the engine will stumble/die. If that happens then at least the valve itself is functional.

We have other threads around here that deal with egr, do some research and you will find much more info.