1bbl to 2bbl swap

G

Gerk

New member
I am starting to hate my Scout. Ive owned it for months and can't get it to run correctly. I am now moving on to the carb being the problem as I have tried everything else.

Is there an easy swap from my Holley 1904 to a better performing 2bbl carb?

Ive taken apart my 1904 and all the parts are in very good condition. No corrosion etc...
I don't really know if its missing any parts or not. Just taken apart, cleaned again and put back together.

Please help as this thing May go rolling into the lake soon

thanks all
 
No way any 152/196 engine can support any "two barrel" carburetor. And before anyone jumps this, a weber-style carb is not a two barrel carb but is a progressive dual venturi unit that is somewhat large for any IH four cylinder engine. The intake manifold design simply cannot take advantage of the greater air flow that May be provided.

That said, we have several threads here dealing with the pros and cons of the weber-type dual venturi carb situation.

All any Holley 1904 carburetor needs is a complete overhaul done by someone who knows what they are doing. By far, the greatest service issue withe 1904 is a non-functional main well assembly. And we (ihon) have remanufactured main wells on hand right now along with the correct carburetor rebuild kits.
 
Thank you very much for your response.
To be honest, I would rather not mess with the linkage etc...
When taking apart, first off, I only took the main components apart. I am sure I missed some internal pieces.
However, the biggest flaw that I saw was some homemade gasket at the float bowl and there is a slight drip of fuel out of it.

Just tell me what to do michael. How much is a kit?

Thanks again
 
You must call ihon (503.268.0864) to price/order the correct carb kit for the 1904.

The main wells come directly from me, I don't think ihon has any of those on the shelf right now. The ihon sales rep can give you the price and core charge for that item and then they will forward me the order once it's set and I will ship.

I also have many of the 1904 carb kits on hand right now so I can ship everything together if desired.

A complete build of the 1904 carb would run $135 plus $10.95 return shipping. If a main well is needed, then an additional $45 would be added to those costs. Our current carburetor service program is explained in this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/new-products-IH-only/3479-IH-only-north-fuel-systems-shop.html
 
To be quite honest, the carb seems to have a pretty fresh rebuild.
All fresh gaskets, no corrosion, very clean throughout.

The car starts up very easily and runs well sitting still. Its when I put it in gear and try to drive it is when the thing tries to die and sputters a bit.
My Dad seems to think there are little backfires, but I don't really hear it.

Its not timing, or tune up issues. Thats all fresh and new.

Could it be the jetting? I am up at tahoe around 6500 elevation. And it came from around Auburn at 1800 ft
 
Ok, so ive taken the carb completely apart "again" to search for more problems. I have found none. (not to say I know even a 1/10 of what m. Mayben knows- I wish I knew that much).

The poppet has good spring, the check ball inside are free.
Btw, how do you remove the plugs in the economiser if they are not the screw kind?

I am taking some pics.

1 thing I see that was missing is the correct gasket for the float bowl. One was homemade which has a slow leak.

I am currently putting it back together.

Maybe my prob is not the carb?????
 
Yes, your issue May not be the carburetor, but I doubt it.

The problem with the main well is that the internal passages are no doubt somewhat obstructed.

As for removing the various plugs, that May take more than a few methods. Then you must have the correct items to replace them with (both aluminum or brass plugs and lead shot). There are eight plugs to be removed for orifice service.

I have replacement fuel bowl gaskets on the shelf. They sell for $5.75 each and are the heavy, "modern" type fuel-resistant material, not the oem cork gaskets. No doubt the main body is also warped (the main reason the fuel bowls leak), most of those I can repair in a resurfacing process.

Proper jetting for the tahoe elevation would be a #58 or #59.
 
Michael,
thx again.
Does the jetting sound like my prob?
How do I know what jet I have already?
Where can I buy a #58?

After reinstalling the carb, everything seemed to go back to how it was running before. At full throttle, it seems to have half the power it should. I then removed the air filter and it felt like it ran a ton better. Not good, just better.
 
All Holley jets have their size stamped on either the side or the non-threaded end. Oem jetting for that engine would be a #62.

Any parts house should have an assortment of Holley jets to chose from. Holley packages new jets in sets of two. The jet in that 60 year old 1904 are exactly the same as the jet(s) used by Holley since the beginning.

Running without an air cleaner and seeing a slight performance improvement tells me that the current jetting is way too large.
 
From a #61 jet to a #57...that is a significant change in the "lean" direction.

I've been screwin' with this stuff over 50 years, I do know about all there is to know regarding the Holley 1904 carb.
 
I believe that you know more than anyone in the world about these things.

I am going to start by replacing the jet. If that does not work, I will send it to you for a rebuild.

Now that you know what my issues with this car are, do you have any other ideas of what is wrong?

Thx again
 
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