1977 Traveler SOA (caster)

T

T78Scout

New member
Have searched the threads, maybe not well enough but running out of time. I have two basic questions.
1. We are about to start the cut/turn on a Scout d44. In general, at what angle should the pumpkin be turned? I don't think eye-balling it is the right answer. What is a good general angle?
2. I have a set up 5" shackles - would replacing the original shackles with these 5" be better or worse for the truck.

The work in planned for this Saturday. I have not purchased any shims. I May need them before Saturday if required...

Help, thanks in advance
 
The pinion should be pointed in the correct orientation for what style of driveshaft your going to use... Or your desired outcome.

If your going to use a "cv" style front drive shaft, or this is going to be a trail rig or you don't mind vibration and/or shortening bearing life, point the pinion at the t-case output for maximum clearance.

If your going to use a standard u-joint style of drive shaft (I.e. Stock), you need to obtain an "equal but opposite" orientation. I.e. The pinion and t-case yokes need to be parallel with each other in the same plane, but at the same time you need to make sure there is not too much angularity between them that will cause binding and/or failure. How much is too much depends on the parts and pieces you use.

A magnetic protractor or digital level is your friend.

As for your 5" shackles, if your mounts are strong enough to handle them, then whether you keep them or not is your choice. Your going a cut-n-turn, so you can compensate for them either way.


More details of what your trying to accomplish always helps. As does some serious re-searching time.
 
The objective is to simply run 33x12.5 with very little fender rub. I do not want to cut the fenders. The research time has truly been exhausted been to 4 different forums, all state general opinion, but nothing solid. Thus the reason for the last minute post.

I plan on using the stock shafts and bolts until later when it will be converted to a cv set up.. Thank you very much for the advice..
 
4" springs, 1-2" body lift and bump-stops as required = 33 x 12.5 = no rub. 3" body lift and you can typicaly clear *most* 35's without too much issue unless your really getting it.

SOA will rub with just 33's, if you add a bl little less. If you trim or message the fenders even less. Stiffen the springs up (with SOA) and that will help. Problem is the whole thing with a SOA is that it can flex, and flex well, so tires rub.

Springs lifts don't stuff as well, hence a "lower" spring lift will "clear" bigger tires than a "higher" SOA and smaller tires.


So I'm assuming your doing the SOA from scratch (alluded to but not stated in your first post). Carve your perches to point the pinion at the t-case output (eye ball does work for this, or you can use a mock-up shaft to get a better idea, protractor if you want to get really precise, but remember, axle wrap under power and flex will change this measurement, so "close" it pretty good). Remember to do this with the full weight of the truck on the proposed springs and shackles you intend to use. If you change things later on down the road you'll have to re-adjust it all.

Once your happy with the pinion angle and your perches, grind the knuckles free then turn them back to give you about 3-4º positive (good) caster. Check 3 times and weld it all up. You May need to lengthen or shorten the front driveshaft, but that's detail work.


Now you got steering and brake-lines to figure out. You got that covered... Right?
 
Thanks much

I am replacing the stock body bushing and adding a 1" bl kit. Should handle the tires well. Yes, I was a bit incomplete as far as the SOA was concerned. This is a scratch cut/turn. We are going to try to do both the front/rear in the same day.

For the steering, I plan on using the complete borg set up, and adding a z-link later, once the measurements are taken and it can be fab'd. I also purchased the Ford shock towers, so the shocks have not been purchased yet. Again thank you for the reply. As for the brake lines, that has not yet been considered other than knowing they will have to be either relocated or replaced with longer lines.
 
Rear is easy, front is more involved. Rear's as simple as new perches on the top, flip the center pins, flip the u-bolts and plates and its bolted together. E-350 (Ford, van), 90's) brakeline works as a good extended line, then you need to figure out shock mounts, those can wait for another day, but I wouldn't be planning on driving it, especially since you'll need a new (longer) driveshaft.

Front is a good day one its own. Since this is your first you should be able to get the perches ground and pinion set in a day. You'll need a z-link now in-order to steer, stock draglink won't work at all with a SOA. The borgson stuff can wait for another day if necessary. Put it on the same time you do the body bushings and bl. That those 3 items will be a day project on their own. You'll probably take 2 hours to grind the weld out of the first knuckle, 30 minutes to do the second. You May find it easier to pound the knuckle off, clean up the tube and "c" just a but then hammer it back on close to final position.

Stock brake lines can be "made to work" just to move it if necessary, but not for driving or wheeling. Don't try driving till you get shocks done, but again, those can wait for another day, or the prep work can be done before you start tearing into the front axle.
 
This truck won't be wheeled for months. Here in san diego, work parties are often but getting everyone together really sucks..

I assume you are talking about the rear drive shaft correct which needs to be lengthened? I have seen front shock mounts welded directly to the tube.. Dont know whether this is merely functional or the best place to put them on...
 
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