I am installing new wheel cyls and hoses on the front and rear axles of this truck.The cylinders that are coming off the front have the hoses exiting forward as installed , my experience has been hoses pointing rearward. The holes in the frame for the hose are behind the axle. Is there a reason for the hose to exit forward of the axle then turn to the rear to attach to the frame? The hoses are not so long they would rub anything. Is this another "Binder" anomaly or what? The rear cylinders have the line exiting towards the rear not straight out like "other" rears from my experience. This is my first IH vehicle and I'm learning a whole new language.Beer time.
1971 1210 2 wheel drive 12x 2 1/2 shoes
- Thread starter racered57
- Start date
Thank you FD, do you know if the cylinders were ever replaced? It was my initial impulse to install my new ones to the rear but I reversed my thinking and installed them forward. It was clear when ordering new cylinders which one was left or right side, and the hose exited to the rear. When I finish the install you know I will check for kinks or rubs, in the end it probably makes no difference. This truck shows few signs of being repaired (mechanically)during it's service life. Some clumsy welding repairs on the bed and tailgate.
The brakes are done and it sure is nice to have them. I have been moving the truck in and out of the shop without brakes, using the engine to stop. standard trans. Now back to the motor,I plan on removing freeze plugs and cleaning out the block as well as possible, could be a mess hope not too bad. 28 years of sitting, some coolant in block but not full the whole time, Dropping the pan for a clean out is on the agenda. I read about the cam bearing deal, yeaps!!
The freeze plug job went well,all replaced except the rear block and head plugs, dug out a big mess of rust from the block, power flushed after new plugs went in,
and have a wix coolant filter kit to install. The rear plugs will be replaced soon. No pics of the plug work but here is one from the brake work.
After refilling the coolant I ran the engine for 30 minutes at thermostat temp. The in dash oil pressure gauge would rise past 1/4 at fast idle and drop back at idle. No bad noise from bottom end or valve train. The #2 cyl has low compression so engine is not 100% smooth.(Suspect exhaust valve burnt.) Still plan on dropping the oil pan for a look, may drive a few miles first.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
That sounds like typical OP gauge behavior. For greater detail, an aftermarket OP gauge can be plumbed into any of the plugged oil gallery ports in horizontal alignment with the stock gauge sender. Be careful with the plastic tubing though. It is extremely fragile. For a more permanent setup, I crap can the plastic junk in favor of copper tubing. It's spendy, but worth it. Just be sure to leave yourself plenty of slack coiled up at both ends.