With the gear driven timing system in these engines, (no chain) you won't encounter a situation where the static ignition timing would adjust itself, aside from catastrophic gear failure, which is a very rare event. So if the timing was close enough to run once before, it was just as close when it failed to re-start, up to the point that a distributor adjustment happened. You replaced a lot of parts all at once. Some, perhaps even most of which were probably still serviceable. People have a tendency to confuse a systematic diagnostic approach with replacing parts in a spray and pray fashion. They are vastly different. One is fairly cheap, but takes some time and a bit of know how to pull off, while the other gets expensive in a hurry and offers lottery like odds of success. Even if you had gotten it re-started after all those replaced items, you wouldn't have the foggiest clue which item was actually at fault. You learn nothing about what condition your condition was in by taking the shotgun approach. The right way to go is perform basic tests in a logical and methodical manner. When you identify a component that has demonstrably failed, only then do you replace that one item. Lather, rinse and repeat until function has been restored.
Let's start at the beginning. Step one is you need a fully charged battery with clean terminals and tight cable connections. Don't guess at the battery state of charge. $6.99 at Hobo Fright Tulz gets you a digital volt meter if you don't already have one. If the battery shows under 12.5v, charge it up before going further. With a verified fully charged battery, switch the key to ON and probe the coil positive terminal to see whether or not you have voltage there. If you do, it will most likely be less than 12v. That's fine. We just want to see something there. Don't forget to switch the key back off after the test. If you have no power there, you just found a problem that has to be remedied before you can go any further. Assuming you have power to the coil, pull any spark plug you wish, install the wire boot back onto it, and place it close to a ground source where a spark can be observed by someone while the starter is cranked. Is there a spark there able to jump a small air gap to ground? Great. Reinstall the plug and the wire. You've verified that your ignition system is making fire. Whether it's happening at the right time remains to be seen. If no spark was observed, then we have to take a step back and find out why. That will involve a closer look inside the distributor and perhaps further testing of the ignition coil. If spark was observed, you can now turn your attention to the fuel delivery system.
I asked you in my first post if the carb float bowl is full of fuel and if the fuel squirters inside the carb are squirting fuel when you hand blip the throttle. You didn't answer either question. Saying the carb has been rebuilt tells me nothing. Why did you all of a sudden feel the need to rebuild it? How do I know it was done correctly or if quality repair parts were used? What we need to know right now is A. is there fuel inside the carb? and B. is fuel making it's way into the combustion chamber via the squirters when you hand blip the throttle? If you have adequate atomized fuel and air reaching the combustion chamber and spark happening anywhere near the right time, the engine should at least pop off. That's pretty much a universal law of internal combustion. So you have some more work to do. This should be plenty to keep you busy for awhile.
