1966 2WD Travelall Brake Issues and Redo

This is off topic, but I have an IH recreational vehicle accessories catalog from 1973.

IH offered trailer hitches, step bumpers, dual battery setup, soft tops, spare tire carriers, larger gas tanks for lwb pickups, electric trailer brake controller, aux oil coolers to name a few -- all with IH part numbers.

I do not know if they had the same product line in 1966.

Yes, a dealer probably had a larger selection of hitches, but the dealer probably also had the same hitch(es) IH put on at the factory.
 
Ok, so the 50$ mpp hub puller from ebay is pretty robust and I think it's good enough for my occasional use. It looks exactly like the otc puller, but it's probably a chinese knockoff, with a lower grade of steel.
It wasn't super easy and took a lot of force to get the drum off, but it came off with a bang.
Here's a pic (not cleaned up yet)
 

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Nothing looks too bad, but I have no idea about this spindle. It's pitted.

1. Is this pitting normal?

2. There isn't much bearing grease in here, is that normal?

3. To get it back on, you mentioned it was "swedged", what does that mean? If it means to "use the nut to get it tight, then back off the nut, then tighten the nut to torque specifications" ...what would the torque specification be?

Thanks!
 

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The brake set in the pic looks outstanding! No grease contamination and no leaking wheel cylinder. And...all the hardware is present and nice, even the self-adjuster stuff! How rare to see one this nice!

The pitting looks like someone peened it with a hammer to roughen the surface...possible the hub slipped at some point in the past though the actual machined surface doesn't show signs of slipping or fretting corrosion from having been loose. Use nice clean mill file and lightly cut down any high spots.

The taper must be tight! That is an interference fit-type drive system. When you reinstall the hub, both surfaces should be clean and dry. Then seat the hub onto the taper with a dead hammer blow and then torque the nut. Make some witness marks on the nut and end of the axle if needed so that as you reach torque spec, you can then align the cotter pin holes. If you have to go past torque spec that is just fine, ya gotta align the holes!

You should not see any grease at all unless ya pull off the backing plate and the bearing/axle retainer. That is a good thing! That means the po did not scruu over the rear axle bearings and brakes by trying to pack 'em without removing the axle shafts! Some variations of th4e tapered hub axles actually had grease zerks behind the backing plates that allowed the application of a grease gun to the bearings...but that usually resulted in folks pumping the entire brake drum full of grease!

Then the bearing set is pulled out for service along with the axle. The passenger bearing retainer May have shims under the bearing/seal retainer, or it May have an adjuster nut, no telling which without looking. That is why ya service the driver side first and re-install the axle and tighten down the retainer/backing plate. The adjustment of the axle endplay is made for the passenger side.

Torque for that nut is 160>250ft./lbs. On the larger nut used on a tapered hub spicer 44 axle.

The drums are "swedged" to the wheel studs and hub if it's original see those tool marks around each stud where they come through the drum?? Looks like two dings made with a blunt chisel??

When ya knock or press the old studs out (which wastes 'em), then ya clean up those drum holes so the new studs will go right through. We explained this really well along with posting some alternative wheel studs in this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/axle-tech-questions/2404-mystery-axle-noise.html
 
Right Rear Inspection

So the right looks just as good as the left.
There is some grease back there by the bearings, but just what appears to have migrated out, nothing on the taper. Again, I think all these parts are original.
I need to get a torque wrench. I tightened the big nut hard, but no torque wrench available.

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Those brakes have obviously been serviced correctly in recent history. I'm impressed, ya don't see one that nice very often, especially with the difficulty for handydan's in removing the rear hubs/drums. If the shoe linings aren't heat-checked/cracked, then just do a clean-up and re-install the hubs.

Are ya gonna go ahead and pull the axles and bearings for service?
 
"are ya gonna go ahead and pull the axles and bearings for service?"

This sounds like a the nice way for a wise expert to suggest a newbie to do the right thing! :ihih:

yes.

I cleaned stuff up and put it back together for now. My plan is:

1. Get new brake cylinders and new rubber lines.
2. The shoes all look good right now, but I have found a shop that does the relining of the riveted shoes, so I will use them in the future.
3. Get a new or used dual master cylinder.
4. Get a new or rebuilt brake booster (depending on if this one is bad or not, I still have to figure that out).
5. Read what I need to about axle and bearing servicing.
6. Then when I do all the brakes and have the drums and hubs off, just go ahead and do the axles and bearings as well. (I did the front bearings already, which was fun).
 
beluga said:
"are ya gonna go ahead and pull the axles and bearings for service?"

This sounds like a the nice way for a wise expert to suggest a newbie to do the right thing! :ihih:

yes.
Click to expand...

Very perceptive dude!

Ya got the tool now, ya can do anything ya want...any time!
 
Trying to work with some local guys to fix this issue because it's often easier to just show someone, but any help here would be appreciated!

1. Jacked up and safety stands in place. When turning the right front wheel by hand, it binds and get hard to turn at the same spot during rotation. The drums are supposed to have been turned very recently, which I believe would make them perfectly round (no assumption here). Also when driving slow, and the wheel gets to this same spot in the rotation where it binds, I hear a clunk and you can see a "jerk" in the wheel. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel. Could the drum be out-of-round and it "engages" the shoes at that point? Any other ideas?

2. How do you tighten the axle spindle retaining nut? I have seen different ideas on the web, but would just like to see what folks here think.

Thanks!
 
This axle looks very similar to my '69 2wd 800. I found a puller on ebay for $65 and should be here this weekend so I can see what surprises await me behind the drum. :icon_wink:

were you able to buy wheel cylinders, or did you have to find a rebuild kit for yours? Appreciate any insight on parts that you can share.

Rob
 
Hey rob,
no, I didn't need new brake cylinders. So that was nice. But in trying to find out what the issue was with the wheel slightly binding, I discovered most of the front suspension bushings were shot. So I ordered them all from IHPA. In fact, Jeff had to fabricate some because they aren't made anymore.
But specifically in reference to the brake cylinders, I didn't need to source them.
Craig
 
The puller arrived and I was able to get the drum removed. I have to do the driver's side next.

One quick follow up question about the drum w/ integrated hub: can they be turned like a normal drum if the wear doesn't exceed safe tolerance already?

They are in pretty good condition, but I was going to have them turned while I had everything torn down and my guy at my local shop said they couldn't turn them but wanted to make sure I talked to some experts first.

Thanks again.
 
For the '68 1100 4x4 truck, the listed front brake cyl bore size is 1 1/16". The 2 wheel drive truck shows a 1 1/8" bore size. Because of taller = 31+ diameter tires, I am considering going with the larger 1 1/8" wheel cyls in front to help the braking performance. Has anyone tried this?
The rear brake bore size for both the 4x4 and 2wd trucks show a 1" bore. Price is about 2x the front cyls. What is so special about a rear brake cyl?
Can the 1 1/16" brake cyl used on the 4x4 front wheels be used in the rear wheels to improve the stopping power?
Truck has the original power assisted brakes.
Whatch ya think?
 
can the 1 1/16" brake cyl used on the 4x4 front wheels be used in the rear wheels to improve the stopping power?
Click to expand...

It May improve, or it May not as you're changing the rear to front braking ratios that compensate for weight shift. Worst case would be a suseptibility for rear wheel lockup. Do the math, you know the old high school geometry for circle areas and see how much of a difference. I would go larger in the front too to keep the ratio the same, but then would the master cylinder give the volume of fluid needed?
 
As the difference between the 'original' wheel cyl bore size is 1 1/16" front and 1" rear, changing to 1 1/8" front and 1 1/16" rear retains the 1/16" difference for weight shift. With shoe to drum clearance of just a few #/1000ths, would it make that much difference in pedal travel?
 
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