1966 2WD Travelall Brake Issues and Redo

Those brakes have obviously been serviced correctly in recent history. I'm impressed, ya don't see one that nice very often, especially with the difficulty for handydan's in removing the rear hubs/drums. If the shoe linings aren't heat-checked/cracked, then just do a clean-up and re-install the hubs.

Are ya gonna go ahead and pull the axles and bearings for service?
 
"are ya gonna go ahead and pull the axles and bearings for service?"

This sounds like a the nice way for a wise expert to suggest a newbie to do the right thing! :ihih:

yes.

I cleaned stuff up and put it back together for now. My plan is:

1. Get new brake cylinders and new rubber lines.
2. The shoes all look good right now, but I have found a shop that does the relining of the riveted shoes, so I will use them in the future.
3. Get a new or used dual master cylinder.
4. Get a new or rebuilt brake booster (depending on if this one is bad or not, I still have to figure that out).
5. Read what I need to about axle and bearing servicing.
6. Then when I do all the brakes and have the drums and hubs off, just go ahead and do the axles and bearings as well. (I did the front bearings already, which was fun).
 
beluga said:
"are ya gonna go ahead and pull the axles and bearings for service?"

This sounds like a the nice way for a wise expert to suggest a newbie to do the right thing! :ihih:

yes.
Click to expand...

Very perceptive dude!

Ya got the tool now, ya can do anything ya want...any time!
 
Trying to work with some local guys to fix this issue because it's often easier to just show someone, but any help here would be appreciated!

1. Jacked up and safety stands in place. When turning the right front wheel by hand, it binds and get hard to turn at the same spot during rotation. The drums are supposed to have been turned very recently, which I believe would make them perfectly round (no assumption here). Also when driving slow, and the wheel gets to this same spot in the rotation where it binds, I hear a clunk and you can see a "jerk" in the wheel. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel. Could the drum be out-of-round and it "engages" the shoes at that point? Any other ideas?

2. How do you tighten the axle spindle retaining nut? I have seen different ideas on the web, but would just like to see what folks here think.

Thanks!
 
This axle looks very similar to my '69 2wd 800. I found a puller on ebay for $65 and should be here this weekend so I can see what surprises await me behind the drum. :icon_wink:

were you able to buy wheel cylinders, or did you have to find a rebuild kit for yours? Appreciate any insight on parts that you can share.

Rob
 
Hey rob,
no, I didn't need new brake cylinders. So that was nice. But in trying to find out what the issue was with the wheel slightly binding, I discovered most of the front suspension bushings were shot. So I ordered them all from IHPA. In fact, Jeff had to fabricate some because they aren't made anymore.
But specifically in reference to the brake cylinders, I didn't need to source them.
Craig
 
The puller arrived and I was able to get the drum removed. I have to do the driver's side next.

One quick follow up question about the drum w/ integrated hub: can they be turned like a normal drum if the wear doesn't exceed safe tolerance already?

They are in pretty good condition, but I was going to have them turned while I had everything torn down and my guy at my local shop said they couldn't turn them but wanted to make sure I talked to some experts first.

Thanks again.
 
For the '68 1100 4x4 truck, the listed front brake cyl bore size is 1 1/16". The 2 wheel drive truck shows a 1 1/8" bore size. Because of taller = 31+ diameter tires, I am considering going with the larger 1 1/8" wheel cyls in front to help the braking performance. Has anyone tried this?
The rear brake bore size for both the 4x4 and 2wd trucks show a 1" bore. Price is about 2x the front cyls. What is so special about a rear brake cyl?
Can the 1 1/16" brake cyl used on the 4x4 front wheels be used in the rear wheels to improve the stopping power?
Truck has the original power assisted brakes.
Whatch ya think?
 
can the 1 1/16" brake cyl used on the 4x4 front wheels be used in the rear wheels to improve the stopping power?
Click to expand...

It May improve, or it May not as you're changing the rear to front braking ratios that compensate for weight shift. Worst case would be a suseptibility for rear wheel lockup. Do the math, you know the old high school geometry for circle areas and see how much of a difference. I would go larger in the front too to keep the ratio the same, but then would the master cylinder give the volume of fluid needed?
 
As the difference between the 'original' wheel cyl bore size is 1 1/16" front and 1" rear, changing to 1 1/8" front and 1 1/16" rear retains the 1/16" difference for weight shift. With shoe to drum clearance of just a few #/1000ths, would it make that much difference in pedal travel?
 
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