Dealbreaker74
Member
Good for you man! Leave the LS's for the C-10 crowd. You'll be happy you did this in the end!
74 Scout II rebuild/restore
- Thread starter Rentalman
- Start date
Rentalman
Active member
FDChappie all the parts are coming in now. They are just having to source from another source than they would typically use. Still all parts will be American made. Right now I'm just waiting on the Isky split duration cam to be ground. Hopefully finished by this next Friday, then L & R Engines can start assembling the engine.
Rentalman
Active member
Finally making some progress. Friday I picked up the rebuilt TF 727 transmission with rebuilt Torque Converter and Balanced & Blue Printed IH 345 with stage II port and polish job with Isky Split Duration Cam shaft. I got the pattern lined up and marked for the torque converter to flywheel mounting. I installed the flywheel to crank with Red Loctite and torqued to 55 ft. lbs. I matted the engine and transmission together torqueing the bolts to 105 ft. lbs. with Red Loctite applied. Installed the powder quoted engine mounting brackets and set the engine and transmission into the chassis. I still need to bolt the torque converter to the fly wheel as I'm missing two of the 5/16" NFT x 7/16" bolts. Next Friday's work is cut out for me as I have a table full of parts to install along with a box full of powder quoted pulleys and brackets.
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int77345
Active member
Beautiful !!
1990jspeedy
New member
I like the progress of this build, I am so excited about the outcome. You should check 4WheelOnline in case you are thinking of adding a couple of auto accessories to this classic car.
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Rentalman
Active member
I'm getting closer to getting the tub back on the chassis. This past Friday I installed the water pump housing, cooling tubes to heads, water pump, powder coated ac/alt bracket and pulleys. Fuel pump is installed and may need to remove it to change out the fuel-in fitting as it is awful close to possibly rubbing against the engine bracket and re-install it. I also installed the oil filter adapter and Stan's Ceramic Coated Tri-Y Headers. My table of parts is shrinking.
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Rentalman
Active member
This past Friday I installed the hi-torque starter, rebuilt alternator, RPT power steering bracket that deletes the smog pump, fan, fan clutch, attached torque converter to flex plate and added an angled fitting to fuel pump so fuel line will not rub up against engine mounting bracket. This next week I've got to remove a stubborn plug from the non-egr 2 barrel manifold that I bought to replace the 4-barrel manifold so I can get it painted and installed next Friday along with the Holley 2300 carb and distributor with the Pertronix Igniter III. This project is never ending but I can barely see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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Winchested
Active member
How does that starter look?>
I just burned out a starter in the Mud and water because those Ol Delco Remys don't drain well and you cant really flush them either.
Are these new mini starters completely sealed? ebay has the Pureelectrical version of the IMI302-012 only option that has decent shipping to canada.
Rentalman
Active member
I'm behind in my posting so I will catch you all up to date. On this day I got the 2-barrel manifold, carb, distributor, coil & coolant temperature sending unit hooked up. A couple of mechanics at work helped me out with fabricating the original dip stick tube to fit between the headers. I am baffled with the new oil pressure sending unit that I still need to install? It has the same threads as the original unit but I can't install either unit as the location in the block where the switch goes has coarse threads and the oil pressure switch is fine threads? Does anyone know if there is adapter that I may have lost/forgot about that needs to thread on the end of the oil pressure switch?
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Rentalman
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For the past month I've been busy rebuilding the Dana 20 T-Case. This is the 1st t-case that I've ever attempted to rebuild. I though for sure I'd have it rebuilt in two Fridays....wrong! Taking it apart was no big deal. As I worked on a section, I would put those parts into a freezer storage bag to be set aside latter for cleaning and inspection. Next I bead blasted the case, rear out put housing and front bearing cap, then primer and painted. Assembly time; rebuilt the rear output shaft housing. While disassembling to adjust the speedo gear shims I caught the bearing frame on a steel support while pressing the shaft out of the bearing on the press. Now to order another bearing! None to be found locally and I'm in So Cal. Got one ordered and when I returned to the shop, the mechanical that helps me out handed me my bearing. He said there's nothing wrong with it. He carefully used a small ballpeen hammer to reshape the cage. While I work on my Scout at my place of employment on Fridays I also get interrupted with work as I rent construction equipment. Being distracted and not paying attention I installed the poppet bearings then the springs in reverse order. That was a big oops. The bore for the rear output shaft shift rod was really scarred from previous use. I did not think to check or clean that up prior to re-assembly. It took me about four hours to remove both shift rods from the front bearing cap just to remove the poppet bearings and springs. One spring got damaged so I ordered two more. Okay everything is cleaned up, springs and poppet bearing are installed correctly. I'm following the IH Scout Shop Manual to install the front bearing cap, shift rods, front shift fork and set screw. As the manual describes the assembly procedure, it is impossible to tighten the set screw for the shift rod as it lays near the case. No access with any tools. I am so thankful for the mechanics at IH Parts America. Every time that I run into a problem they gladly advise me on the proper fix. In this situation I needed to remove the front shaft from the case, then reassemble into case with shift rod, fork, sliding gear then tighten set screw as it is accessible. Now I can reinstall bearing on shaft and tap bearing cups back into the bore. Install front cover plate with correct shim to get .003. Yeah... the Dana 20 is now rebuilt for the most part. I still need to install shift lever mechanism and yokes. Sorry for being long winded. My errors may help someone else avoid them.
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Project is looking great! Glad our guys were able to get you advised on the Dana 20. As for the oil pressure sending unit, you are trying to install it in the wrong hole. On your post, the 4th picture, you can see a square headed plug on the side of the block. There are four of them running along the driver side of the block. Anyone of them will work for the oil pressure sender, but typically it is installed on the second from back, which is a little over an inch away from a 1/4" pipe plug that is a block coolant drain.
Rentalman
Active member
Hi Jeff, Thanks for the info on the placement for the oil pressure sending unit. You're right, I was going through my pictures and noticed that it is on the drivers side. What through me off is the engine builder put the valve covers opposite of how they removed them. So I was insistent that it went on the passenger side according to the location of the oil fill cap now. Do I need to put the valve covers back how they were originally for better oil drainage to the rear of the engine when adding oil? Also each side of the block has threaded holes that are exposed below the valve covers and above the freeze plugs. Do those holes need to be plugged? I don't recall removing anything from them? Thanks again for the help from your staff and your self.
You can leave the valve covers the way they are. Most were installed just like you have it. I'm not aware of any other holes needing to be blocked off on the lower sides of the block. Just the oil gallery plugs, as we have already discussed, and the coolant drains.
Rentalman
Active member
Here is an update of my progress on the build. I'm at the mercy of our shops painter when he is available to work on the tub in between company projects. So I have been restoring various parts so that I am ready to install them when the tub is finally back on the frame. I installed the transfer case to the automatic transmission. I had to adjust the front output shaft end play one more time as when the yokes were torqued to 200 ft. lb. I ended up with more play than was in spec. I sand blasted the heater box, parking brake mechanism and brake pedal bracket assembly. I sprayed with primer and follow up with semi-gloss black. I had the painter paint the heater box grey ( the grey color is Skyjack Equipment's grey that they paint their reach forklifts and aerial equipment with). I tested the parking break switch, transmission switch and brake switch with the ohm meter setting on a multimeter. The transmission relay that is mounted to the brake pedal bracket power goes through the single spade to the lower spade in the picture, but is open going to the top spade. Is that correct or is power supposed to flow through both? The painter soon should finish up the tub by spraying the floor and firewall with epoxy primer. Then he will spray Raptor Liner to the complete inside of tub and firewall. After that I should be able to install the tub to the frame.
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Rentalman
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Jose our companies painter, whom keeps all of our construction rental equipment looking good has been working hard on the tub, fenders, doors, tailgate and windshield frame for the last two weeks. The driver side of the Scout starting at the lower corner of the front windshield and continuing through to the lower rear corner of the front fender had rusted through from a combination of packed dirt and rain over the years. On the fender he cut out the rusted portion and welded in a patch piece. On the windshield frame he cut out the rust hole in the lower drivers side corner, sand blasted and welded in some new metal. This past Friday I finally got the tub back on the chassis. I bolted in my reconditioned brake pedal and parking brake assembly along with the hood latch. I'm waiting patiently for my IHPA order to arrive with my firewall pad, hydro boost brake kit, master cylinder and proportioning valve so I can get those items installed so I can see where I will be mounting my 14 circuit wiring kit.
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Rentalman
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Your welcome. Thanks for following the project.
Rentalman
Active member
This past Friday I installed the firewall mat, hydro boost brake kit, master cylinder and brake proportioning valve that I recently purchased from IHPA during their Red & Black Friday Sale. It was a pretty simple install and the directions were easy to understand. I did have a little trouble with the power steering adjusting bracket because I could not remember how it was installed when I removed the engine almost 2 years ago. I emailed my issues with pics to Darren. Right away he called me and explained what I was doing wrong. As usual I over think things... IHPA offers great customer service!
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Rentalman
Active member
I'm a little behind on posting my updates to the project. I disassembled the heater box complete and motor. Removed all the dirt and grime out of the motor, cleaned the contacts, bench tested and repainted. It works, so no need to replace. I had the painter at work paint the heater box grey. I think this adds a little color to the engine bay rather than all black...my preference.
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Rentalman
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I disassembled the steering column and inspected all parts. I had the steering column tube and column upper support bracket powder coated satin black and I painted the turn signal switch housing and the shroud to match. I cleaned and removed the dried up grease and repacked the upper and lower bearings with fresh grease. I reassembled the steering column with new turn signal, ignition switch and sector.
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Rentalman
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Earlier I sent the fuel tank out to get the Renu-Restoration. The fuel tank was tested for leaks, then sandblasted inside and out. The Renu product gets applied and cured. It was expensive but came with a lifetime guarantee. A new sender was installed. The sender came with the wrong gasket. It was a thick gasket like what we use for suction and discharge hoses at the equipment rental yard I work at. Our mechanic helped me and got me a O-ring that fits correctly in the groove of the tank. I decided to install a IHPA fuel filler pipe after some of the reviews I read on the original plastic pipe not venting well and cracking (my plastic fuel pipe was not cracked yet). What a chore installing the fuel tank with the new fuel tank straps I purchased. The straps seemed to be bent in the opposite direction. Its a good thing I saved the original fuel tank straps. I used them as a guide on how to bend the new ones. I had to get some help as I needed a third hand. I muscled the tank into position with all the vent hoses attached making sure they don't get pinched while the third hand got the nut on one of the J-Hooks. After the fuel tank was in position I installed the skid plate. I'm glad that projects done.
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Rentalman
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Most of the body work has been completed. We've learned the hard way that you need to install the windshield frame before the fenders. A couple weeks earlier Jose whose been doing the body work on the Scout wanted to get the fenders on the Scout. First mistake, if you've been following this post from the beginning the driver fender was rusted through on the lower corner. We cut out the bad and welded in the new off of the Scout. When we installed the driver fender and tightened down the bolts the bondo cracked at the replacement panel patch. When we repaired the fender we should have left the fender in place, cut out the bad, test fit the patch panel in place to align and drill the five mounting holes then tack weld in place slowly. That being said, I had to find a good used driver fender which I did. Had to go through a pile of them as these almost 50 year old fenders all come with some type of flaw. Anyway had to pull the fenders partially off to get the windshield frame installed. The passenger door went on perfectly and lined up with the body seems. The driver door is another story. The driver door had a slight crease from being hit toward the front of the door. Jose pulled the dent out and repaired. The top hinge frame had a slight bend that we straightened. Well that did not work. To get the door to fit we had to put two washers behind the upper and lower door hinges to push the door toward the rear as it was binding against the front fender. The gap is still to wide at the rear of the door and when you shut the door it has that same spring back pressure it had when I bought the Scout. Now I'm on the hunt for some rebuilt hinges for the driver door. The hood is installed but I need to adjust and find the happy spot for the hood and support hinges. The hood sits to high right now. This Scout has been a challenge, but will be worth it in the end.
