The Little Engine That Almost Could!!

[Joe Blo]

Great to hear that it is not the problem. I am kinda in the eliminating problems stage right now- I figure that eventually I will get get to the right one & she will purr like a kitten!! I will try both methods for starting but I have a sinking suspicion I have bigger probs.

Robert- I am getting fuel pressure & got a gauge form autozone to check psi but if anything it seems like I May be getting too much fuel as the plugs are wet when pulled after a couple start attempts- although the carb "sneezes" which I thought was indicative of a too lean mixture?!?!
I have confirmed spark & compression although it is not timed because I havent got her to start yet & am pretty consistently flipping the distributor 180 deg until I can get some of the damn cylinders to fire!!
Question- when I rebuilt the carb the needle & housing (not sure of the terminology here) in the kit was significantly longer than the stock asssi pulled out. It looks like everything seats correctly with the float but was wondering if you have ever come across this and/or if this May be an issue?!
I think I will copy this over to a new thread so the previous does not get too terribly polluted w/ my problems - lets call it "the little engine that almost could"

 

[Joe Blo]

For all just joining I have a stock '64 Scout 80 that is having problems starting. I am eliminating problems & think I have it down to 3 things;
1- distributor/timing- um yeah - sooooo it is probably easier to take the valve covers off to verify compression stroke- than to keep flipping the dist 180 deg after each fix.... (blonde moment) I'll do this tonight!!
2- fuel pressure- have a gauge & will verify tonight!!
3- distributor- now that I'm writing this down it looks like it will be down to this tonight!!

 

[Joe Blo]

May as well keep going w/ the info on her!!
I have replaced the starter, battery, battery terminals, plugs, wires, coil, swapped out points for pertronix, rebuilt carb, po replaced cap & rotor.

Truck has been sitting for 5+ yrs so I am eventually going to have to go through everything but there is'nt much rust so I've got that going for me- not like my old '74 that was being held on the frame by rust - so its a good platform at least when I do get her runnin!!

 

[Joe Blo]

Alright I know 4-posts in one day- borderline excessive right?!

Got her runnin fellas!!! it was a combo of the distributor being off (thank you ignition tech forum) & the float being set wrong per instructions in the rebuild kit - 3/4" upside down which I switched to dead level (thank you carb tech forum). Anyhow I ran her for a bit & got a rough time, by ear, on her & the fuel bowl went empty- still a couple gallons in the tank so im going to put all new hardlines in this weekend & cross the fingers!!! Thanks for your help along the way this was a major hurdle crossed today, its been a-lot of years since this baby has run!!

 

[Robert Kenney]

1- distributor/timing- um yeah - sooooo it is probably easier to take the valve covers off to verify compression stroke- than to keep flipping the dist 180 deg after each fix.... (blonde moment) I'll do this tonight!!

Pull the plugs or at least #1
have a helper turn the engine normal direction cw (viewed from the front) with a socket on the hub bolt and with your finger in the #1 plug hole feel for the compression to blow by your finger. Continue to turn the engine by hand cw till the "0" Mark on the front timing cover lines up with the hub Mark. Pull the cap and the rotor will be pointing at or close to the #1 wire tower you should use. Losen and turn the dizzy so it is right on that tower location. A sharpy Mark transfered to the dizzy body from the #1 tower will help lining things up.

Following the firing order on the intake manifold and plug the other 3 wires in a cw sequence.

I like to dead time using a buzz box for points or by lining the reluctor and pickup coil for electronic just start to pass. Lock the dizzy down at the 8-10* timing cover Mark. Usually good to +/- 2-3 degrees.

2- fuel pressure- have a gauge & will verify tonight!!

Cranking pressure should hold for 5 minutes once the bowl fills.


Did you rough set the float level to the supplied dimension? Your description of the fuel inlet needle being different is a common issue as depending on kit you have the valves intended can be different. Also all parts need to be impeccably clean and a fuel filter installed right before the carb to prevent a new contamination problem.

glad you beat me to it dude