67 1200b (lots of large photos)
- Thread starter Korllach
- Start date
Korllach
Member
It is official:
the fuel pump is toast. I pulled it and took the filter and nipples off of it. Connected it directly to the battery and nothing, no noise, no vibration. I put myfingers over the holes to see if there was any suction and nothing.
Looks like a trip to vato zone and pick up a replacement.
The good thign is, I can get some rolls of wire to run the wire nice and out of the way.
the fuel pump is toast. I pulled it and took the filter and nipples off of it. Connected it directly to the battery and nothing, no noise, no vibration. I put myfingers over the holes to see if there was any suction and nothing.
Looks like a trip to vato zone and pick up a replacement.
The good thign is, I can get some rolls of wire to run the wire nice and out of the way.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Do your self a big favor...install a disposable fuel filter before the new pump, and one before the carb fuel inlet. Otherwise, you will crap the replacement fuel pump right away with trash pumped from the tank...I know crap is in there unless the tank has been kept sealed in a vacuum bag after being acid dipped and then purged!
Korllach
Member
So, I went to vato zone after work
got the mr. Gasket 12s
2 in line 3/8ths fuel filters
a roll of red 16ga wire
a roll of black 16ga wire
a set of wire crimpers (I mangled my cheap set when I did the kwikwire kit in the Scout)
set of 4 hose clamps.
Unhooked the rubber hose from the hard line that passes under the front of the truck, and from the end of the old electric pump. Cut it in 2 pieces and installed a fuel filter and 2 hose clamps.
Did the same thing from the lenght of hose between the carb and the fuel pump.
So there are now 2 fuel filters before the pump, the in line that I bought and the 1 that attaches to the ass end of the pump. And 1 between the pump and the carb.
Once I had that wrapped up I started tackling the ignition switch wiring and the fuel pump wiring.
What it looked like before:
And what it looks like now: (before I wrapped it in electrical tape that is.)
And... henry is alive!!
so... Now to the next issue. The clutch!
I popped the master cyl top off... And that summbitch was bone dry.
I had some dot3 fluid in the garage and put some in there, however, my question is: did I fuck up? If not, how do I get that fluid into the lines and get all that air out of there so the clutch will engage?
Thanks again! Henry is extremely close to motorin down the road!
got the mr. Gasket 12s
2 in line 3/8ths fuel filters
a roll of red 16ga wire
a roll of black 16ga wire
a set of wire crimpers (I mangled my cheap set when I did the kwikwire kit in the Scout)
set of 4 hose clamps.
Unhooked the rubber hose from the hard line that passes under the front of the truck, and from the end of the old electric pump. Cut it in 2 pieces and installed a fuel filter and 2 hose clamps.
Did the same thing from the lenght of hose between the carb and the fuel pump.
So there are now 2 fuel filters before the pump, the in line that I bought and the 1 that attaches to the ass end of the pump. And 1 between the pump and the carb.
Once I had that wrapped up I started tackling the ignition switch wiring and the fuel pump wiring.
What it looked like before:
And what it looks like now: (before I wrapped it in electrical tape that is.)
And... henry is alive!!
so... Now to the next issue. The clutch!
I popped the master cyl top off... And that summbitch was bone dry.
I had some dot3 fluid in the garage and put some in there, however, my question is: did I fuck up? If not, how do I get that fluid into the lines and get all that air out of there so the clutch will engage?
Thanks again! Henry is extremely close to motorin down the road!
Korllach
Member
I can see a hose running from the master (which is located on the firewall next to the brake cyl and booster) and it runs down to the back of the engine.
This really is the last thing to get henry on the road
.
I need to trouble shoot some no blinkers/emergency flashers, and I need to replace a tail light. But other than that, being able to shift this guy is all I have left to do.
Tune up will be in order real soon.
This really is the last thing to get henry on the road
.I need to trouble shoot some no blinkers/emergency flashers, and I need to replace a tail light. But other than that, being able to shift this guy is all I have left to do.
Tune up will be in order real soon.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
The clutch actuation is operated by a slave cylinder mounted on the passenger side of the engine/rear. It will have a bleeding nipple on it, the slave is purged/bled just like bleeding a brake system.
I would not expect the master or slave to actually retain fluid very long, those cylinders are wear items and must be rebuilt periodically or replaced. You can probably get it to bleed and actuate the clutch for a few hours, but once the fluid drools out of the slave again, the clutch actuation will go away.
I would not expect the master or slave to actually retain fluid very long, those cylinders are wear items and must be rebuilt periodically or replaced. You can probably get it to bleed and actuate the clutch for a few hours, but once the fluid drools out of the slave again, the clutch actuation will go away.
Korllach
Member
autozone.com | | clutch master cylinder kit | master cylinder kit
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...12-0&itemid=896-10&store=1187&productid=19018
I found this link over on the other forums for a master rebuild kit for the clutch.
I am still pretty green with all this. But it is pretty awesome learning =d
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...12-0&itemid=896-10&store=1187&productid=19018
I found this link over on the other forums for a master rebuild kit for the clutch.
I am still pretty green with all this. But it is pretty awesome learning =d
Last edited:
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
This is a shot of the clutch slave on a '64 1300a with a 304 engine I have on the parking lot right now. Looking across from the driver side fender. The bleeder nipple is at the high point in the loop, along with the liquid feed pipe.
Both the master and the slave are easy rebuilds if the bores are ok and not rotted. Far easier than dealing with brake master and wheel cylinders. So yes...if you can source the proper rebuild kits, doing this yourself is certainly feasible.
Unfortunately, I do not have either the correct parts list or service manual that covers your particular clutch system or I could post the pages, but this is real simple to do and a great learning experience since this rig is not your daily transport device!
Both the master and the slave are easy rebuilds if the bores are ok and not rotted. Far easier than dealing with brake master and wheel cylinders. So yes...if you can source the proper rebuild kits, doing this yourself is certainly feasible.
Unfortunately, I do not have either the correct parts list or service manual that covers your particular clutch system or I could post the pages, but this is real simple to do and a great learning experience since this rig is not your daily transport device!
Attachments
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
To bleed the clutch hydraulics....
1) fill the master cylinder with dot 3.
2) pump the clutch pedal sloooowly several times all the way to the floor and ease the pedal back up to full release.
3) if the master and slave are functional at all, you will start to feel a slight amount of pedal resistance after several pumps. Or...fluid will start pouring out around the master cylinder pushrod or the slave pushrod, or both. If so, they both must be rebuilt.
4) if no fluid leakage is noted, then attempt to open the bleeder nipple on the slave by turning with the appropriate wrench inna counter-clockwise direction. If you are lucky, it will move...then open one turn and close it again. Some fluid should be expelled from the nipple at that point, that is good!
5) re-fill the master cylinder with dot 3, be sure to keep it full during the rest of the bleeding process.
6) connect a length of vacuum tubing to the nipple and place the other end (about 2ft. Long would be good for this) in a toss-away plastic bottle that has about 1/2" of dot 3 in the bottom, keep the tag end of the hose submerged in the liquid.
7) have a helper pump the clutch pedal slowly, three times and then hold the pedal on the floor. Then crack the nipple open and allow the air/foamy fluid to escape into the catch bottle. Then close the nipple and have the helper slowly release the pedal.
8) repeat this process as many times as it takes to expel the air from the plumbing and have a solid stream of non-aerated dot 3 emerge from the hose tag end. At that point, you should have a firm pedal and the clutch pressure plate will be releasing cleanly.
1) fill the master cylinder with dot 3.
2) pump the clutch pedal sloooowly several times all the way to the floor and ease the pedal back up to full release.
3) if the master and slave are functional at all, you will start to feel a slight amount of pedal resistance after several pumps. Or...fluid will start pouring out around the master cylinder pushrod or the slave pushrod, or both. If so, they both must be rebuilt.
4) if no fluid leakage is noted, then attempt to open the bleeder nipple on the slave by turning with the appropriate wrench inna counter-clockwise direction. If you are lucky, it will move...then open one turn and close it again. Some fluid should be expelled from the nipple at that point, that is good!
5) re-fill the master cylinder with dot 3, be sure to keep it full during the rest of the bleeding process.
6) connect a length of vacuum tubing to the nipple and place the other end (about 2ft. Long would be good for this) in a toss-away plastic bottle that has about 1/2" of dot 3 in the bottom, keep the tag end of the hose submerged in the liquid.
7) have a helper pump the clutch pedal slowly, three times and then hold the pedal on the floor. Then crack the nipple open and allow the air/foamy fluid to escape into the catch bottle. Then close the nipple and have the helper slowly release the pedal.
8) repeat this process as many times as it takes to expel the air from the plumbing and have a solid stream of non-aerated dot 3 emerge from the hose tag end. At that point, you should have a firm pedal and the clutch pressure plate will be releasing cleanly.
Korllach
Member
Thanks again mr. Mayben for spelling out the rudementary for me:d.
After beating back the overgrowthin the back yard I grabbed my dot 3, screwdriver, and 3/8ths wrench and go to work!
Filled the master hopped in the cab and started to slowly pump the clutch. After 20 or so pumps and no pressure building on the pedal I got out to check the slave cyl and it was pissin fluid out all over. Probably going to need a new slave.
So I reached in and unhooked the spring removed the 2 bolts bt snce the truck sits so close to the ground ( and I have no jack or jackstands. I know.. Pathetic) I wasn't sure exactly how that push rod that goes into the boot disconnects.
Going to go to vato zone and get about 6 ft of fuel line and replace it all. Having a he'll of a time gettng fuel to the carb. Figure I should replace it all since it looks pretty old and rotten.
After beating back the overgrowthin the back yard I grabbed my dot 3, screwdriver, and 3/8ths wrench and go to work!
Filled the master hopped in the cab and started to slowly pump the clutch. After 20 or so pumps and no pressure building on the pedal I got out to check the slave cyl and it was pissin fluid out all over. Probably going to need a new slave.
So I reached in and unhooked the spring removed the 2 bolts bt snce the truck sits so close to the ground ( and I have no jack or jackstands. I know.. Pathetic) I wasn't sure exactly how that push rod that goes into the boot disconnects.
Going to go to vato zone and get about 6 ft of fuel line and replace it all. Having a he'll of a time gettng fuel to the carb. Figure I should replace it all since it looks pretty old and rotten.
Korllach
Member
Bump-
checking to see if anyone has any info on how that push rod detaches so I can get that clutch slave out and replaced.
Also: got all the fuel lines replaced with new stuff, got some new fuel filters put in because I figured the others were full of sediment.
I had an issue the first time I ran henry where it would just stop running after about 5 or 6 mins of idle. I figured it was rotten lines (and they were rotten) so I replaced my lines and was not getting fuel to the carb... Again..
Started pulling the lines at each connection and I noticed that I was getting some fuel all the way up to the pump but not through it and out.
Well it appears that I had the pump too high and it was not wanting to pull fuel from the tank. I relocated it a bit lower and it started pulling fuel fine. Let it idle for about 10mins and it had no hiccups at all.
Once I can figure out how to get the slave off and a new one on henry will be mobile!
checking to see if anyone has any info on how that push rod detaches so I can get that clutch slave out and replaced.
Also: got all the fuel lines replaced with new stuff, got some new fuel filters put in because I figured the others were full of sediment.
I had an issue the first time I ran henry where it would just stop running after about 5 or 6 mins of idle. I figured it was rotten lines (and they were rotten) so I replaced my lines and was not getting fuel to the carb... Again..
Started pulling the lines at each connection and I noticed that I was getting some fuel all the way up to the pump but not through it and out.
Well it appears that I had the pump too high and it was not wanting to pull fuel from the tank. I relocated it a bit lower and it started pulling fuel fine. Let it idle for about 10mins and it had no hiccups at all.
Once I can figure out how to get the slave off and a new one on henry will be mobile!
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Is the clutch slave mounting pretty much the same as the setup I posted in the pic of the '64 with the 304 motor? If so, I'll make an attempt at removing it and see what it takes. I've never tried to do this on one of these rigs so I don't know the process until I attempt it, then we will both know how to do it!
The truck in the pic I posted is slated to go away sometime this week and become a parts donor sitting on another lot, I'm on a purge and move mission around here this summer!
The truck in the pic I posted is slated to go away sometime this week and become a parts donor sitting on another lot, I'm on a purge and move mission around here this summer!
Korllach
Member
Pretty close it is mounted with 2 bolts on either side of the clutch slave, I will get some pics tonight for you. It looks exactly like this.
autozone.com | | clutchslavecylinder | brakeware
The push rod is tucked up underneath the firewall a little bit and due to the hood placement, my growing non army pting belly, and not a good amount of light, is preventing me from seeing how exactly this thing detatches.
If I were younger I would volunteer to come help clean up binder u as I am sure that would be a summer education for the ages =d.
autozone.com | | clutchslavecylinder | brakeware
The push rod is tucked up underneath the firewall a little bit and due to the hood placement, my growing non army pting belly, and not a good amount of light, is preventing me from seeing how exactly this thing detatches.
If I were younger I would volunteer to come help clean up binder u as I am sure that would be a summer education for the ages =d.