Blaster 2 Coil

GaryOR

GaryOR

Member
I'm in the process of trying to get my new purchase ('78 Scout II with a newly rebuilt 345) running. The po, who did all of the engine rebuild (and made many mistakes), added a blaster 2 coil.

I am getting spark at each of the plugs (as indicated by a bulb tester), but I'm not sure if it is adequate and consistent.

If the blaster 2 is leaking oil when turned on its side (and was even bubbling some out at one point when upright), does that mean that it has been damaged and is ready for the trash? Can these be tested at a car parts store?
 
garyor said:
I'm in the process of trying to get my new purchase ('78 Scout II with a newly rebuilt 345) running. The po, who did all of the engine rebuild (and made many mistakes), added a blaster 2 coil.

I am getting spark at each of the plugs (as indicated by a bulb tester), but I'm not sure if it is adequate and consistent.

If the blaster 2 is leaking oil when turned on its side (and was even bubbling some out at one point when upright), does that mean that it has been damaged and is ready for the trash? Can these be tested at a car parts store?
Click to expand...

Typical failure mode of those coils. I've delt with many that leak, if you could see how they are manufactured (do an autopsy), you will understand why.

Do a search here and you will find many discussions of coils, coil testing, specs for coil primary resistance for each engine (4 cylinder, 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder). We've been down this road many times.

And to answer the next question...the correct primary resistance value for a replacement coil (any replacement) for the sv engine app is in the range of 1.4>1.8 ohms, +/- 10%.

A "blaster 2" coil is nothing special, simply a coil that is identical in nearly all respects except it incorporates an increased "turn ratio" (as compared to a typical oem coil) which potentially can add about 10kv to the upper limits of "voltage available".
 
Anyone have any brand and model recc's for a coil?

Calling the local stores I find either coils with primary resistance of 1.0-1.7, 1.1-1.8, less, or "I don't know".
 
Need 1.4 - 1.8 as mm states...

Standard part (standard brand of auto parts) - uc12 / uc12x

airtex 5c1026 / 5c1026a (bought one of these as a spare for my corvair)

both of these numbers should be able to be "crossed" to another brand at your parts store.

When a pertronix was put on my 392 -- they also put on a pertronix flamethrower (not flamethrower II / flamethrower iii) rated 1.5 ohm (pertronix also has a 3.0 ohm flamethrower coil).

Make sure the coil is for external resistor (ballast resistor / "resistance" wire in the wiring loom). The airtex I purchased states this on the outside of the coil.
 
Ok. Replaced the coil and added a 1.8 ohm ballast resistor in front of it.

Still same issue. I get a light up on the timing light from cylinder 8 about every 4-6 seconds.

Could it be I have a defective petronix pointless setup not telling the coil to fire enough?
 
We already know that engine May not actually be a '78 design level. We know the carb is oem onna '73 kali-emissions rig.

The '78 would have originally had a prestolight electronic distributor in it. The wiring harness had no "resistor wire" (most likely since the electronic ignition does not use a resistor wire to the coil positive terminal with the key switch in the run position.

Someone has installed a pertronix previously? Inna prestolite distributor or a Holley distributor of some sort?

You do not wanna use a ballast resistor at all with a pertronix conversion, no need for that and it will provide a possible low voltage threshold that the pertronix unit can't deal with.

We need to back up here and verify the entire ignition system as far as which distributor you are dealing with and if it's all wired properly. The wiring for either the Holley gold box or the prestolite electronic distributors is entirely different as compared with a breaker point system (last used in the Scout II in the middle of the '73 production stuff and on some '74).

Then we're gonna start at the beginning in dealing with setting up the ignition system correctly, no more shotgunnin' or this will end up being yet another po-failed project pushed off on craigslist!

Use this thread to make a positive identification of the distributor:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/642-ihc-vehicle-distributor-identification.html

In dealing in po-failed projects, nothing will be as it should be, everything has been crapped on at least two different ways, and nothing will be "original". And most folks call a "rebuilt engine" something that has had snakeoil poured through the carburetor and the spark plugs replaced.
 
Michael, your po statements couldn't be truer.

Except, I'm not going to become one.

New coil minus the "this coil requires an external ballast" ballast = instant start on the first try!!!!!!

Still gotta set the timing, fix the carb, plug the air injection system ports, but she is running! My son was way excited.

Thanks a bunch michael. Will hold on sending the dissy info for now and concentrate on the carb.
 
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