something sticking in reverse!

[Manerd]

I picked up a new to me 76' Scout II 345/727/d20 Dana 44's front and rear it's got the 2 barrel holly 2210 carb. I got the engine and carb running like a top thanks to much research and reading mm's sticky's. The problem I'm having now is when I got home yesterday from a half an hour drive I pulled into my driveway and I put the Scout into reverse to park it in the dirt right in front of my house and it felt as though something was binding up. It was going into reverse but it felt really sticky and the back of the rig was starting to hop up and down. After that I lost all forward gears but still does the same thing in reverse. I will confirm that the shifter is actually shifting tomorrow. I'm not real sure how the governor works is there any way it could be stuck. This is to be my daily driver and the sooner I get this figured out the better! Any and all suggestions or advice will be appreciated

 

[Michael Mayben]

This is simply trickledown man, unfortunately it's disabled your transportation device!

First thing to check is verify the control cable adjustment between the shift mechanism and the transmission, those can be problematic and very tedious to adjust.

The governor system has nothing to do with this issue.

The low/reverse band and apply system is creating the issue I believe. In order to deal with this the pan needs to come down. Then perform the band adjustment process describ3d here. But you will have to pay close attention to the rear band system and take some pics. If the rear band won't "adjust", then either it's broken, the servo is not working, or the strut has jumped out of position (very rare) and is floating around inside somewhere.

This is a somewhat common occurrence regarding a 727 in any vehicle and is caused by lack of maintenance over the years (no band adjustment). The other likely cause of a broken band is shifting into reverse with the engine rpm too high (such as when the carb is still on fast idle after a cold start).

 

[Manerd]

Ok I got my new tranny pan gasket and new filter. I couldn't find a inch pound torque wrench anywhere close for under $120.00 so I picked up a small ft. Lbs wrench that goes as low as 5 ft. Lbs I also picked up some 8 point sockets so I hope I have all that I need . So far I have confirmed the shifter cable is shifting I adjusted it up and down and it did nothing so I set it back to its original adjustment. I adjusted the ez band and dropped the pan and filter off the tranny I wanted to post these pics in case you see something that needs attention. The atf fluid that came out was burnt up really good but I did not see any big peices or metal shavings in the pan just very small particles that accumulated around the filter but quickly dissapated into the fluid left in the bottom of the pan.

 

[Michael Mayben]

Your pics don't show anything obvious other than a transmission that May have never been serviced in this lifetime! Typical! I can smell the dam thang from here!

The low/reverse band adjuster screw is not broken off, that is something I see fairly often now on failed units, don't know what that is!

The accumulated debris in the pan is also "normal" especially on a box that has not been serviced. I do see lottsa clutch material in that pile of sand!

If making an adjustment to each band doesn't bring it to life, then it's overhaul time!

 

[Manerd]

Well tightning the bands did nothing! Looks like its going to need that overhaul. I am just having the worst time right now! I lost my job six months ago and within the month my daily driver crapped out on me! I really need a running vehichle to find some work. I'm two months behind on my mortgage and now I have to put down my sixteen year old chihuahua because it's getting to hard for her to get around and I can tell she's always in pain! too bad someone couldn't just put me down too! What do you think would be cheaper and easier, finding a good used tranny or rebuilding this one. Please note I have no experiance rebuilding transmissions but I am willing to try!

 

[Manerd]

Ok I ordered the carl munroe 727 book and I'm checking prices on overhaul kits I know that the 727's changed througout the years what I need to know is, will a kit designed for another make work on a Scout 727 or do I need to order one specifically for the Scout application. The serial # stamped into the side of the tranny on the drivers side near the pan reads 423979c91 m3815 0332 I'm unsure about the very first letter could be a 4 or a 1. Also when I took off the pan for the second time I noticed a considerable amount of atf dribbling from inside the bell housing, is there a possibility that my problem could be the result of a bad torque converter?

 

[Michael Mayben]

ok I ordered the carl munroe 727 book and I'm checking prices on overhaul kits I know that the 727's changed througout the years what I need to know is, will a kit designed for another make work on a Scout 727 or do I need to order one specifically for the Scout application. The serial # stamped into the side of the tranny on the drivers side near the pan reads 423979c91 m3815 0332 I'm unsure about the very first letter could be a 4 or a 1. Also when I took off the pan for the second time I noticed a considerable amount of atf dribbling from inside the bell housing, is there a possibility that my problem could be the result of a bad torque converter?

We feel your pain, I'd wager every member here has been in this same place a time or two.

There is only one basic master overhaul kit used on all tf 727 applications, internally there is no difference other than what I've outlined in one of the sticky threads at the top of this sub-forum. There are variations in the number of clutch discs used, return spring in the clutches, etc., that varies by engine application. There was no variation amongst the versions used in IH apps though.

There are many master overhaul kits in the market place, but by far, the best value right now is the B&M master kit available right here at ihon. All the parts in the box are exactly the same stuff used in the trannys they used to build in house (they no longer offer a built 727 replacement). That kit also includes the shift reprogramming setup that you can either install at the time of rebuild or do it later. The instructions included are "adequate" for an fairly experienced wrench, a complete novice would struggle with those instructions but the munroe book definitely fills the gap and is a must in anyone's tech library.

The B&M p/n to order from ihon is 10229. You will not see that item in the online store yet. That kit is now the only parts source I use in doing 727 builds for ihon customers.

Fairly soon, scoutboy74 will have a redneck 727 rebuild video to post we've been working on since last September. It will be available only to ihon forum members.

The tranny fluid leak in the bellhousing is quite common, the front seal is leaking, that does not mean the torque converter is faulty though.

In addition to the B&M master kit, you will need two of the seals on the transfer case adapter that go behind the bull gear. The bearing at that location May also need to be replaced, that bearing is only available through ihon and is custom built for us and is not a hacked bearing like many other vendors offer.