152 S80, it's alive! (barely)

[FERG]

So I got the points cleaned and set at the specified .017 gap. Dumped a little fuel down the carb and after a few chugs it fired up! I can only keep it running 10-30 seconds at a time as it is not drawing fuel into the line. I have the line run to the ground into a 1gal gas can and it's not picking up fuel.

Iwas trying to get it running to assess possible engine damage. Po told me that the trans and tranfer case were rebuilt then 3 months or so later the engine started to knock so they parked it. That was 5ish years ago judging by the tags and inspection stickers.

When it ran for a little bit today I first heard a slight tic tic that sounded like a lifter or something. Then the third or fourth time I had it running for a few seconds I was hearing what sounded more like a loud knock or even a bang, maybe even some metal on metal squeal. Sounded like it was coming from closer to the front of the motor then the back. Couldn't tell if it was more top end or bottom end since it would die before I could get underneath to listen.

1. Any thoughts on the no fuel draw? The fuel filter is new, so I am thinking a bad pump. If you agree, should I go with a new electric or stick with a mechanical replacement.

2. Motor noise, how should I proceed? Pull the oil pan? Pull the head? Pull the motor? Something else?

 

[FERG]

Ok, since posting I have learned that the fuel pump doubles as a booster pump for the vacuum wipers. So until I do an electric wiper conversion, I will have to use the mechanical pump. Anyone found a good price on those things? The best I am finding locally is $75ish.

 

[Michael Mayben]

ok, since posting I have learned that the fuel pump doubles as a booster pump for the vacuum wipers. So until I do an electric wiper conversion, I will have to use the mechanical pump. Anyone found a good price on those things? The best I am finding locally is $75ish.

You won't beat $75 for a proper fuel pump with the vacuum top, that is what I pay locally for 'em new, not remans.

Do not toss the old one out, those can be rebuilt and some day the new ones will not be available.

Remove the valve cover and watch the rocker assembly for oiling while the engine is running, same process as described here:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...I-4-sv-engine-non-oiling-rocker-assembly.html

If it's not oiling the rockers at all (or very minimally), then the rocker shaft is plugged up.

The 152 and 196 have a habit of developing "piston slap" on one or more cylinders. Typically the noise is worse when the engine is cold, the noise diminishes (but does not go away completely) once the engine and oil is fully up to temp.

But don't assume that is the problem until you have exhausted all the processes regarding the rocker assembly and lifters.

This is the same scenario we have repeated over and over around here! Just part of bringing old iron to life.

 

[FERG]

Thanks michael. A few weeks ago I went through that process and found that magical little 5* window where the rockers oil and primed the oil pump, and went through the process you gave me for starting an engine that has been sitting for a while. So I know its oiling, although I didnt have the valve cover off while it was running yesterday. Should I run it again to view the oiling while ifs running? If its oiling when running, what else should I look at to confirm the piston slap. Whats the repair for it? A rebuild?

As for the fuel pump, the one I found was from autozone so I assume its a reman. Where can I find info on rebuilding the one I have?

 

[Michael Mayben]

I source fuel pump kits from these folks:

fuel pump rebuilding kits - then and now automotive

But for $75, I won't scruu with rebuilding one unless I can't get one at all! If the pump autozoo is a master p/n 6957 or equivalent, then it is a new one. Their descriptor will say either 'new" or "reman".

You really need to watch the engine oiling while running. Then you can easily determine if the noise is a lifter/pushrod/rocker issue.

For resolving true piston slap, yes, a rebuild is in order, including a bore job. The piston skirt has "collapsed" (but not necessarily cracked or broken), possibly the cylinder bore is worn beyond limits, or both. But don't worry about that until you verify complete valve train lubrication with the engine running for an extended period of time (at least 30 minutes,preferably one hour).