rebuild 345 motor

1hc72

Member
Alright, I want to thank another iher here(forgot user name) pointed out that I have bad rings, well I am burining oil so it is time to rebuild the top end. I just need to know what parts and tools I will need.
I assume its a 345 v8(will verify) I know I will need head gasket, rings, head bolts. What else do I need?
Part 2> does ihon carry everything that I will need?
 
Read through all the threads here in the "engine tech" sub-forum. You will see several posts regarding what you are proposing, many are virtually step-by-step regarding an engine rebuild process. Nearly every thread refers to this same topic! Then use that information in order to determine if you are capable of performing this operation.

And...one more time...any IH service manual contains a complete section on what is needed including specifications regarding an engine rebuild.

And there are many individual operations involved in doing this, measurement of wear points, cam bearing service, cylinder head rebuild, boring(if needed) and honing, etc.

Yes, ihon has all engine parts needed to perform any level of I-4 or sv engine service, both in a "kit" form (custom-spec'd and assembled for each situation), and as individual components.

You will not know what parts are needed until the engine is torn completely apart and all inspection points/measurements have been recorded and analyzed regarding "wear". Only then do you order replacement parts.
 
Mm I do have the manual and I will be reading on the engine forum. As far as tear down this is my daily driver,and I have a very limited budget for rebuilding
 
mm I do have the manual and I will be reading on the engine forum. As far as tear down this is my daily driver,and I have a very limited budget for rebuilding

If your budget is very limited...and the engine runs currently, leave it alone and drive!
 
I got an eye on a replacement motor so I can rebuild the engine in my truck over time! So that makes me happy, a few things that I want to do is get a little more tq and hp out of it. I was thinking about 210hp. Is this a reasable with this engine?
 
I got an eye on a replacement motor so I can rebuild the engine in my truck over time! So that makes me happy, a few things that I want to do is get a little more tq and hp out of it. I was thinking about 210hp. Is this a reasable with this engine?

Increasing the power output of these engines can be done, but that does not go along with any kind of budget approach. A typical total machine work package alone on these motors (or any pushrod v8) will run $800>1200$ locally from the folks I use (that cost is totally dependent upon your locale), and that does not include a crank grind if needed at another $185 or so. Add in another $245 for a complete balance job (v8) which is the best $$$ that can be spent.

You'll need a 4v intake manifold with an appropriate carb to match, and a performance ignition system. A replacement cam as we've described on this forum many times will be needed also, along with the routine internal engine parts always replaced during a rebuild. All of the internal engine parts we sell here at ihon are far more than adequate for any street-driven IH engine build project.
 
I have done some research and this is the cam and kit that I am looking at.
comp cams: IH 260h cam & kit

I know this sounds dumb but im not sure on what all the specs mean, so if I can get a dumbed down version that would be great


Not dumb at all. Way better to admit you are not quite sure than to build blind. Glad you asked.

A word of caution regarding your choice of cam. The critical number to look at is the intake duration @ .050 lift. It is rated at 212* I and e. Unless you intend to bump compression to 9.5-1 and do some fairly big head flow improvements like porting and headers, it is to big in my opinion.

For stock to mild increases in compression and head flow and compression to say 9.0-1 202-206* intake duration tops with no bigger that 112 lsa (lobe separation angle). At that install the cam at 108-106 intake lobe center line and not straight up for optimum power and torque for an auto trans. With a stick shift and lower(higher numerical) rear gear ratio it will be happier at 110.
 
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