GM SOA spring set up 2.5" for front with RS

W

Winchested

Active member
Hey, guys looking at options for front springs.

I'm not satisfied after a few years running the RS kit on my stock scout Springs (+1 extra main leaf with eyes cut off) It's just too dang stiff up front.

So I am debating on the GM 46-47" springs or Wagoneer springs.

I like the Wagoneer springs for the offset center pin set up.

But noticed you guys are using the GM springs on the "TROUT".


So What would keep me in the range of the stock springs height wise. 2" lift GM spring? I'm on 40s and have cut a bunch, don't really want to go higher.

And If I go GM springs can I leave my rear shackle hole in (frame hole) the same spot and just use a dog leg shackle Or will I have to move it more rearward. (Currently on your 5" RS straight shackle)

Are the GM bolt sizes different for the spring bushings?


I assume rather than the RS fangs being flush with the bumper crossmember that I would have to bring them further out forward to account for the longer springs.

I'm on a dana 60 front. The front axle is moved forward another inch compared to just the your original RS kit moving it the 1.5".

Do you have any close up detailed photos of how the set-up is on the TROUT?

The only 2.5" set up I've seen so far on a dana 60 was Levi's at old Iron but he did Wagoneer springs.

Thanks for any Insight.
 
Winchested said:
Hey, guys looking at options for front springs.

I'm not satisfied after a few years running the RS kit on my stock scout Springs (+1 extra main leaf with eyes cut off) It's just too dang stiff up front.

So I am debating on the GM 46-47" springs or Wagoneer springs.

I like the Wagoneer springs for the offset center pin set up.

But noticed you guys are using the GM springs on the "TROUT".


So What would keep me in the range of the stock springs height wise. 2" lift GM spring? I'm on 40s and have cut a bunch, don't really want to go higher. - Hard to say what springs you will need to match your current set up. Are you IH powered? Heavy winch bumper? Since all modified Scout's aren't built the same you may have to do some experimenting to get the ride height you are after. But I'll guess it will be either 2" GM Lift springs with an Add-A-Leaf or 4" lift GM springs with possibly a leaf removed.

And If I go GM springs can I leave my rear shackle hole in (frame hole) the same spot and just use a dog leg shackle Or will I have to move it more rearward. (Currently on your 5" RS straight shackle) - Probably not going to be able to reuse the existing hole unless you move the R/S fang very far forward, like more forward than what we normally would do.

Are the GM bolt sizes different for the spring bushings? - Yes. However the R/S bushing that goes in the frame is the same regardless of which springs you use.


I assume rather than the RS fangs being flush with the bumper crossmember that I would have to bring them further out forward to account for the longer springs. - Yes. The fangs, where they weld to the frame, will move out to the very front of the frame.

I'm on a dana 60 front. The front axle is moved forward another inch compared to just the your original RS kit moving it the 1.5".

Do you have any close up detailed photos of how the set-up is on the TROUT? - Build pictures for Hideous can be found here Hideous Build Pictures

The only 2.5" set up I've seen so far on a dana 60 was Levi's at old Iron but he did Wagoneer springs.

Thanks for any Insight.
Click to expand...

See answers above in red.
 
Thank's Jeff I'll look it over.

Not IH powrred any longer. But I honestly don't see any difference up front spring wise between the 345/T19/dana 300 vrs the 5.3L/NV4500/NWF doubler/Np 205...

Warn 9000i up front with custom made bumper. I can lift it on an off myself with winch attached so prob 100+/- lbs.
Springs don't bounce any more or less up front.

Still stiff as a chuck wagon. Ran the same spring set up with both.
 
Okay Jeff and Zaed.

Bringing this back into focus.

Beings as I'm in Canada I couldn't afford the shipping for leaf springs through you guys accross the border.

So I sourced Zone offroad 4" GM 2.5" springs. Surprisingly the free arch is within 1/4" of a stock set of front Scout II leafs.

I plan on ordering

Part #: CPT-RVRS-SHKL-KIT-U

Should I run the 6" or 5" dog legs shackles.

My current set up is old stock springs with 1 extra full main leaf added to the pack as support for the spring eyes. I used your straight 5" shackles for the original SOA set up.

Should I go with 5" or 6". If I went 6" could I just re-drill the upper hole to the 5" mark if need be?

You were saying I would likely need to re drill the frame for the rear hanger anyhow. Should I completely cut out the original 2" DOM bushing or just drill through it if it's half in the spot the new one wants to be?

Cheers guys appreciate the help!


Oh and what bushings do y'all use for the 2.5" springs. 1.5" eye and 1.125" eye. Not sure which energy suspension or prothane to order that will have a 1/4" shoulder for the 3" hangers?


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On Scout's used for offroading I like to go with the 6" length shackle.

If you don't like it, yes you can redrill them down to 5" length.

If the new sleeve doesn't interfere with the old sleeve in the frame, then I would leave it.

We've got all sorts of spring bushings in stock. You should be able to get the correct ones from us when you order the reverse shackle kit.
 
ihpartsjeff said:
On Scout's used for offroading I like to go with the 6" length shackle.

If you don't like it, yes you can redrill them down to 5" length.

If the new sleeve doesn't interfere with the old sleeve in the frame, then I would leave it.

We've got all sorts of spring bushings in stock. You should be able to get the correct ones from us when you order the reverse shackle kit.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jeff you're awesome! I'll double check the bushings and put t my order in!
 
Well got the parts in, Thanks Jeff and IHPA team.

I assume with the leaf spring bushings I need to just grind the front bushings down 3/16 so the width overall is 3" rather than 3.5" (oem gm width).

The rough country bushings is what I'm referring too.
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Yes you can either grind your existing bushings or we sell bushings for the RC springs that will fit this set up.
 
ihpartsjeff said:
Yes you can either grind your existing bushings or we sell bushings for the RC springs that will fit this set up.
Click to expand...
These are the bushing you guys sent me for this set up. (rough country 6070) I just ground em down on a bench grinder wheel today. Should be fine!

Do you guys usually use the narrow (1/4" shoulder bushings) or the 1/2" shoulder bushings for the shackle side (1.125" bushing side)?
 
Gotcha. Without looking up your order I am clueless as to what you bought. Usually the 1/4" shoulder bushing is used on the shackle side but is dependent on the width you set the front hangers at.
 
Here's how it turned out so everyone can see.

Haven't driven it out on the road yet. But I'm super happy that the front end now actually has "suspension"! Guess my original springs that I had modified a few years ago were just so flat and worn out they provided zero suspension.

I did pull the second from bottom leaf out of the 4" zone springs I used.


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I did not have to move the rear reverse shackle bushing location, so did not have to redrill the frame.

I had ordered the 6" dog legs but the 5" would have been perfect, I did redrill these from 6" to 5" center.

I moved the front spring hangers forward 2.5 to 2.625" from the original IHPA spring hangers I had in.

This moved my axle forward another 1/2" (think it's about 3" forward from stock). This should finally keep the 40" tires from eating my firewall. I also use the 3 hole leaf perches, in the rear most hole.

Always happy with IHPA parts and glad Jeff and the team have done such great R&D on these products.
 
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