Chevy front dana 44 help

Justutt67

Member
I am planning on going SOA with my Scout and have been looking on craigslist for a Chevy axle that I can shorten for the front. My question is everywhere I look I seem to find info on getting a 73-76 Chevy axle for the small bearing spindle. I have found a 71 Dana 44 w/ disk brakes out of a k5 blazer for a good price but not sure why this isn't included in the years mentioned. Anyone know what the difference between the 71-72 and the 73-76 44's? Can I use this axle? Info that I have found says still 8.5 ring gear and 30 spline count so that seems the same. Google searched for 2 days before posting and can't find definitive info.
 
I am planning on going SOA with my Scout and have been looking on craigslist for a Chevy axle that I can shorten for the front. My question is everywhere I look I seem to find info on getting a 73-76 Chevy axle for the small bearing spindle. I have found a 71 Dana 44 w/ disk brakes out of a k5 blazer for a good price but not sure why this isn't included in the years mentioned. Anyone know what the difference between the 71-72 and the 73-76 44's? Can I use this axle? Info that I have found says still 8.5 ring gear and 30 spline count so that seems the same. Google searched for 2 days before posting and can't find definitive info.
The body style was different so the spring spacing is most likely difference.

But do you have a Dana 44 now? If so just use GM outers. You'll get flat top knuckles and cheap disc brakes. And no need to cut the axle down.
 
Yeah I do have a 44 now but was thinking I would save time by not having to grind down the housing and I would have the GM brakes and outers all for $100. If the spring spacing is the only difference between 71-72 and 73-76 than that's no big deal.
 
yeah I do have a 44 now but was thinking I would save time by not having to grind down the housing and I would have the GM brakes and outers all for $100. If the spring spacing is the only difference between 71-72 and 73-76 than that's no big deal.

Its not that hard to grinding it down for a SOA. But the GM axle will be full width too so you would have to cut it down anyway.
 
Yeah I finally found some info on pirate 4x4. Sounds like pre 73 Chevy Dana 44's have external hubs like the Scout and have smaller stub shaft u joints. Not gonna buy this one since there is no advantage. If when the time comes I don't find a 73-76 axle I will just use the Scout 44. I already have International 8 bolt flat top knuckles from a IH truck that I can use for hi steer. The body is still off the frame so I still have a little time.
 
I have personally narrowed a Chevy Dana 44 to Scout 2 width and installed it into a Scout. Please note that it seems that nothing was ever set in stone when it comes to older 4x4's. As far as I know just about any Chevy Dana 44 will suit your needs. I believe there were some Chevy Dana 44's that had thicker axle tubes but they still had the same outer diameter. Note: many people confuse Chevy 10 bolt axles with Dana 44's. :out: Chevy 10 bolts started production around 1978.
The only items you have too use from a Chevy Dana 44 is the housing. You have some options when you get to the c's, knuckles, and caster settings. My personal preference was to use a grinder and grind the welds out around the c's of the Chevy housing. Hammer the c's off of the tubes. Measure the length of the Scout 2 axle tubes. Cut the Chevy axle tubes to the exact same dimensions. Clean up the axle tubes so the c's can be hammered back onto the axle tubes. Install the narrowed Dana 44 underneath the Scout. Put jack stands underneath the housing and put the full weight of the Scout onto the housing. Then use a angle finder to set your caster setting. I had great success with 6 degrees of caster which really helps with the steering wheel returning back to center on its own and not following ruts in the road. The original Scout housing had 0 degrees of caster. :out: which did not help with handling going down the road.
This is also the time you need to think about your front driveline angle! You May or May not need to do this portion. Since you May need to tilt the pinion towards the transfer case since your doing a SOA and gaining a bunch of lift. You will need to install angled shims underneath your leaf springs since your passenger side spring perch is at a fixed angle. I prefer to use steel shims. With my Scout I used a pair of 6 degree shims. Yours May differ!
So with the scouts full weight on the axle and letting it settle for a day or two..... Use a angle finder and set it on top of the c's on each side. Set your caster. Tack weld the c's onto the axle tubes in numerous places. Remove the housing. Finish weld the c's. You can take it to a pro or do it yourself if you trust your welding.
Install the Scout 2 gears and carrier, axles shafts, knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, and etc all the way out to the locking hubs.
Of course you also have the option if you have Chevy flat top knuckles (which have 5 or 6 spindle mounting studs) to redrill the knuckle for the Scout 8 hole spindles. This is what I did to be able to install high steer arms and keep my steering above the springs. Good luck!!:thumbsup:
 
How do you do hi-steer/not a z-link with Scout knuckles?

Personally, I'd try to find Chevy flat top knuckles/spindles (get the proper bearing size) along with Ford hubs.
 
The hi steer approach in my opinion is the best option available. It is superior since it keeps your steering geometry nice and flat. It also keeps your steering out of harms way from anything that could bend your tie rods.
A huge down fall to the z link is bump steer. Picture the z-link at rest..... Everything looks ok right?? Picture what happens when your passenger side front tire hits a bump. The angles the z link is trying to correct gets blown all to hell and will cause your vehicle to handle poorly on rough roads. Driving down a smooth highway the zlink will handle great.
Personally I like using Chevy flat top knuckles (I have read that IH had some truck flat top knuckles that would make this swap easier) the Chevy driver side knuckles are already tapped for studs however the passenger side still needs to be done. To do the job properly I send my knuckles out to have the top of the knuckles machined and tapped for hi steer knuckles. At that time you could have the machines shop drill the knuckles for the 8 bolt stud spindles or do it yourself if your comfortable and have a drill press to help keep the holes straight. You simply put your IH 8 stud spindles up to the Chevy flat top knuckles (2 of the holes already match up) and drill the remaining 6 holes into the knuckles. I have done this on numerous axles and have punished a couple of these axles mercilessly without a single failure. This includes several axles that run 38" and bigger tires.
Some people have the opinion that the knuckles should not be drilled. I totally disagree. I prefer to keep my IH spindles, rotors, hubs, brakes, & locking hubs. One large benefit is when I need to buy any of those parts again I don't have to go find a bunch of different parts from 3 or 4 different vehicles. Also it is really cool that you built a custom front axle but it is even cooler that even a diehard IH guy has to take a double look at you front axle to tell it wasn't original.
Please research what a real flat top knuckle looks like before buying something off of ebay or craigslist! Almost everytime I go to buy another set of knuckles I find numerous ones for sale claiming that they are flat top and they are not.:mad2: please do your home work before buying!!!!!!
 
Well I ended up using my Scout front 44. All the right year GM 44's on craigslist in my area had dried up and I didn't want to pay too much for one. I must say it wasn't a big deal to do the cut and turn on it. I bought perches from IH Parts America set my pinion at 10-11* and my caster at 5 *.

I bought a set of IH flat top knuckles off ebay. The driver side was drilled and tapped but had to have the passenger side machined. I went ahead and had both sides drilled and tapped for 5/8 studs and am using crane hi steer arms. Gonna stick with IH stuff for now and figure if I break an external hub down the road I can convert to GM or get the warn internal hub conversion for the Scout. Here are pics of my IH flat top knuckles.


 
The pics look good!! You have to get pretty hardcore to start breaking IH hubs. The only way I started breaking them was when I ran a spool or a locker in combination with a heavy right foot and big tires. They way I always looked at it was that I rather break a locking hub any day than a axleshaft or gears. Which are a hell a lot easier to replace on the trail! :thumbsup:
my only worry and maybe I am being a bit "old school" would be the welded perch onto cast iron housing especially on a front axle. Please let us know what you did and if it holds up for you??
 
Looks good. One thing I see though, looks like May have an issue with the tie rod interference with the springs. Might want to consider getting a one inch spacer that gets mounted between the high steer arm and steering arm.
 
My only worry and maybe I am being a bit "old school" would be the welded perch onto cast iron housing especially on a front axle. Please let us know what you did and if it holds up for you??

Yeah I hear ya. Everything I seemed to find said that the housing is cast steel not cast iron. I welded it with a 220v mig welder and made sure it was hot!! I am pretty sure it will hold many have done the same before me without problems.

looks good. One thing I see though, looks like May have an issue with the tie rod interference with the springs. Might want to consider getting a one inch spacer that gets mounted between the high steer arm and steering arm.

You are right about that! I have about a 1/2" of clearance from the top of the arms to the top of the springs. I plan on using the 1 ton Chevy tie rod ends with 1.5" od dom .250" wall 1" id for the tubing. I haven't torqued the studs down yet incase I do need a spacer.
 
If anyone is interested I have the full build thread on binder planet it's called "project freebie" lots of pics!
 
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