Wont restart after warmed up

SandyScout

SandyScout

New member
Ok so im new to turnin wrenches on vehicles so ill probly ask some dumb questions. So I have no problem from a cold start, after going to lunch with the wife, the Scout always gives me a hard time starting again. Its cranks and I smell gas- nothing. I pull a plug wire off, get wrapped while she turns the key-nothing. Eventually it starts but the ride home isnt enjoyable. Its a 1920 Holley carb, been rebuild twice, didnt change the float tho. I dont know if I have intermitten electrical issues or something with the carb still.
 
If you look down the carb throat after a warm shut down and see dripping fuel, its either the float or needle/seat that are allowing the fuel level to rise from residual pressure from the fuel pump. On the other hand this assumes there is a heat insulating gasket between the manifold and carb. With out this gasket the fuel in the bowl will boil off and much of it ends up in the intake manifold.

There could be other reasons to, but these are the easiest to diagnose so let's start there.
 
Thanks chappie ill check that out. There is a new gasket between the carb and manifold, it doesnt seem like anything special as far as heat insulating. Just a thin rubber gasket
 
I didnt see any fuel seeping in, the needle seems to be seating. I did notice, when I let it idle there is a stain that smells like gas on the ground. Like there's gas coming out of the exhaust.
 
Did you or a shop rebuild the carb? Is it a brass or plastic float. The older plastic floats are frequently damage by the alcohol in today's gas. Just to confirm, the Scout runs good except it's flooded when making hot starts? The damp spot on the ground is probably condensation in the exhaust system. What other info can you give us?
 
My uncle has a shop, he rebuilt it. Its a plastic float. Once he got it out I put it in a can of parts cleaner to see if it stayed afloat during the rebuild. It did. It runs good and strong, there is a little delay when you step on the pedal but only while idling. A little rev is fine but it hesitates at full throttle. I expected water to come out of the tailpipe but this spot on the driveway smells like gas and actually stained the asphalt. Sometimes when trying to restart it wont even crank. Thats usually after cranking 2 or 3 times. I go off and on with the key and it catches again?????
 
Those 2 problems might be solved by a rebuilt starter. Not cranking frequently means a bad solenoid (round thing on top of the starter motor) there is a wire that comes from the solenoid up to the coil. This wire is energized while cranking to bring a full 12v to the coil to make starting easier. If the solenoid is bad/failing it May not be energizing this circuit in addition to not energizing the starter.
 
But you're not getting a spark after it sits. So that sounds like you're getting heat soak into ignition parts and not a carb/fuel issue.
 
Ok! So to address both your responses, what/how would I protect my new starter and solenoid from getting heat soaked?
 
Can you post up a picture of the back of the carb, your coil and of your starter?
Chappie, is there a different carb gasket that is supposed to be used that has a lip on it to block some heat from the manifold? The picture should clear up if it has the right gasket under it.

It sounds like sometimes it turns over and won't spark and sometimes it won't even turn over. If it won't turn over then I would look for the heat shield that is between the starter and the exhaust. If it will turn over but won't spark then that sounds to me more a problem with the coil.
 
Not familiar w/the 232, but on a 264 I had there was no heat shield for the starter. Most i6 engines I've seen don't have or need heat shields.

If funds are tight just buy a new solenoid. On an i6 it can probably be replaced without pulling the starter. They are a dirt common delco part. Just pull it and place it on the parts counter and say give me one of these.
 
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Here they are. I just noticed the float bowl cover is leaking. I tightened it up and you can kinda see in the pic of the carb, the ears are starting to bend.
 
That green wire (changes to black at coil) should have a full 12v when cranking. Remove both wires from the coil and put a meter on that wire and see if you have voltage when cranking.
 
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