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Wiring Sanity Check SII

harrywt

Member
So I started the final phase of prep to move to la, replacing all of the decrepit wiring. I will post a complete sequence but I need opinions quickly.

As I have done before I made up a couple of plates to cover the bulkhead connector holes. The plates have round holes with grommets to protect the wires. The round holes are much easier to plug up with some foam to cut out drafts.

I have been dry fitting the part of the harness that goes to the rear of the truck. First of all I hate the waste of running all of the wires over the top of the steering wheel frame. So I plan to go through the holes shown in the pics. I put arrows in there also. The only moving part is the brake linkage bell crank and I am pretty sure I can protect the wires from that, it has very limited movement.

If I was home I think that I would cut new holes in the frame and even put a pvc or metal tube across, but if my aunt had balls....

I like to run all the wires inside the frame to protect them. In the past I used existing holes but now I want to drill a new hole in the frame so that I can more cleanly route the harness and not have it "flapping in the breeze" so much.

What do you think of making a 1" hole in the top or outboard side of the frame? What do you think of any part of this?

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ihpartsjeff

Administrator & Owner
Staff member
Your arrows pointing to locations where you want to run the wiring looks fine. Try if you can to use grommets where the wiring is going to pass thru the column mount. As for drilling the hole in the top of the frame I would not do that as it will be easier for dirt and mud to enter the frame. Instead I would use the factory hole on the passenger side outer frame rail to run the wiring into the frame.
 

harrywt

Member
Hi there,
thats what I usually do. The hole in question is somewhat forward of the firewall so the wires hang in space a bit. If I make hole in the location shown the wires can be captured down along the firewall

what about drilling on the outside of the frame? I put an arrow there.

Also there is a hole on top on the driver's side in the similar location. I did a dry fit there but it's just so busy that I went back to the passenger side.

I thought about the dirt part. The hole on top on the driver's side surprised me and gave me the idea to drill on the passenger side.

So again, what do you think of a hole on the outboard side of the frame?

Best,
harry



your arrows pointing to locations where you want to run the wiring looks fine. Try if you can to use grommets where the wiring is going to pass thru the column mount. As for drilling the hole in the top of the frame I would not do that as it will be easier for dirt and mud to enter the frame. Instead I would use the factory hole on the passenger side outer frame rail to run the wiring into the frame.
 

ihpartsjeff

Administrator & Owner
Staff member
I don't see any problem with drilling a hole further back like where you pointed at. I agree it would clean up the wiring but not having it hang in outer space. My only suggestion would be to drill that hole as far back as you can and closer to the body mount. Reason is in case one day you decide to put one of our reverse shackle kits on you are not going to want to h redo the wiring in order to make room for the frame hole to be drilled.
 

harrywt

Member
I've been thinking about the reverse shackle for sure. I was going to cheat the hole a bit further forward than ideal for that reason. Never occurred to me to push it back some. I was studying installs and instructions to get a feel for where the mount would go.

In your install post you imply that the wiring through the frame can co exist with the reverse shackle. I have re read your words below and I am almost certain you mean that I don't want my clever new hole to be smack dab in the reverse shackle mounting point. That it's okay if it is forward of that point otherwise.

Thanks for feedback, I appreciate it.

I don't see any problem with drilling a hole further back like where you pointed at. I agree it would clean up the wiring but not having it hang in outer space. My only suggestion would be to drill that hole as far back as you can and closer to the body mount. Reason is in case one day you decide to put one of our reverse shackle kits on you are not going to want to h redo the wiring in order to make room for the frame hole to be drilled.
 

Justutt67

Member
What if you need to take the body off the frame at some point? Won't it be a pain in the butt if you run wires through the frame?
 
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harrywt

Member
Yes it will be but the protection of the wires outweighs the small possibility. If I ever did a frame off cutting and re splicing the harness would be small compared to the rest

what if you need to take the body off the frame at some point? Won't it be a pain in the but if you run wires through the frame?
 

harrywt

Member
so i have a new issue with this re wire. it has long beenfinished and has been working just fine. i have had some “droputs” of voltage but I foind some loose connections at the battery and things returned to normal

Lately a similar thing occurred and two nights ago the truck just died. no juice at all.

I noticed that a 50amp breaker that i installed to replace the fuseable link had trippedd and that it was very hot. the wires to either side of it were not unusually hot.

I have only had time for a few tests. I found that the input wire tothe breaker was loose so I tightened it. When I start the truck the breaker trips within 30 seconds.

I have a voltage gauge conncted to the fuse block. There is no longer an ammeter. There is an 8 gauge wire from alternator directly to the battery. The 10gauge to the breaker comes from the charging terminal of the alternator where the 8gauge attaches

When i start the engine the voltage gauge climbs slowly to 13volts. this is new. It suggests a resistive short in the dash. The battery is getting the full 13v directly fromthe alternator plus the engine is over 1000 rpm so not an alternator output issue.

I have looked to see if there are any places where the bundle of wires going into the dash have been rubbed or cut especially since i ran tem in a non stock route (see previous photos)

I can find no such damage.

I have some ideas for further investigation but first I want opinions on one idea. This line feeds the fuse block and the sum of the fuses is much higher than 50amps. I understand the concept of de rating.

I think that the breaker is too small and has been running near to its trip point that it has deteriorated from heat and now trips at a lower current.

M Mayben has suggested a 50amp fuse or breaker here but maybe I need beefier breaker.

I welcome opinions

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Hondo

Member
A loose connection in a low voltage high current application will generate a lot of heat. That probably damaged the circuit breaker as you mentioned. The observation that the circuit breaker is getting hot, but the wires going in and out of it are not, also indicate that the circuit breaker has been injured. Probably want to connect an amp meter or shunt inline with the circuit breaker, or put a dc current clamp around the wire going into the circuit breaker, so you can see what kind of current is really going through it. You can then start pulling fuses to see what is drawing what to divide and conquer. Also curious if the circuit breaker is rated for DC? Love those pictures of the inside firewall, haven't had the entire dash out of my Scout yet, and those pics are very informative.
 

harrywt

Member
well the breaker is rated for 12v so i have to assume DC, plus they are generally used for car sound sytems.

your comment about arcing across a loose connection is quite plausible.

however i have seen opinions that the current surge from a blower motor would create the same effect and that fusible links are immne to this.

I am going to install a fusible link today while I wait for a new breaker to arrive.

for sure a high current ammeter is called for or shunt. first block of free time has arriv d today

thanks
 

Robert Kenney

Super Moderator
Where does the output end of the breaker connect? What does it feed, the + bus to the fuse panel?
Simply starting the truck with no accessories running should be close to 5-8 amps to your breaker tops.
 

harrywt

Member
So the fusible link I spliced in where the breaker used to be seems to be working just fine. It is a 14ga protecting a 10ga (aal they had at auto parts store) When I had hi beams and radio and blower at hi the link got a little warm.

I think that I will try a different breaker that is more robust and see what happens. I like the convenience of switching off the truck without a main battery line disconnect
 

harrywt

Member
The + buss of the fuse panel. Said buss has three wires going to it. One, 10ga, goes to the BATT connector of the alternator. One, little smaller 12ga it seems, goes to the ignition switch and then third I never used also seems like 12ga.

When I put ignition into "on" position with nothing else on I get 7amps.

I have an MSD coil with 0.8ohms across the primary, so if the negative side was grounded I'd expect 12/0.8 = 15amps but of course the neg side isn't ground except momentarily when the distributor calls for a spark.

also I added a starter relay (see previous pics) to cut down on current through the fuse panel

So put #'s 1 & 3 together at the fire wall. #1 still comes from the alternator to the firewall where the breaker is. Since #3 wasn't doing anything I figured I'd get less power lost to heat.

I've been running with a piece of 14ga fusible link spliced in where the breaker was and it all seems fine.

I have seen opinions that any breaker would eventually die in this applications. The arguments are plausible don't know if sensible as my breaker most likely died due arcing across the loose connection.

Fusible links do, it seems, give you a little delay when current surges

I am waiting for a heavier duty breaker to arrive in the mail. I also got a little Hall Effect loop ammeter to monitor the current

I'll post some pics soon.


Where does the output end of the breaker connect? What does it feed, the + bus to the fuse panel?
Simply starting the truck with no accessories running should be close to 5-8 amps to your breaker tops.
 

harrywt

Member
So now I have installed what seems like a heavier duty marine breaker also 50amp as the previous breaker. I got a hall effect ammeter. The white thing is a loop and it plugs into a little digital display, $14.

With the motor running, hi beams on, radio on, heater fan at full blast it shows 30amps, maybe another amp in reverse. Only motors will show surges and so turning on the heater blower creates a 2amp surge.

I forgot to try the wipers and washer but I don't expect too much from them but I will let you know.

I plan to move te "amprobe" to the 8ga wire running from the alternator to the battery so that I have both an ammeter and voltmeter so as to tip my hat to M Mayben

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