Whats wrong with this picture...

N

NONYAMT

Member
Just had the fly wheel resurfaced,replaced throwout bearing,clutch fork bolt/bushing,slave,master ect,did not replace clutch as funds were short and it appeared fairly new,you could still see the cross hatches on the pressure plate and the disk is almost thick as new.also added to the clutch fork with a weld on each side and reshaped the metal so it fit the to bearing collar so the is no slop in it.as I reassembled everything it became obvious the to bearing wasnt going to move the three fingers very fall if at all,as you can see in the pic the clutch fork is almost up against the bell housing with no pressure on it.is the clutch just completely shot and the fingers so worn the to bearing isnt going to move it?could the fork be bent or misshapen?did I assemble something incorrectly?any help appreciated.
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Clutch plate in backwards? Had that issue once with a 73 camaro, wasnt paying attention put it all back together tried to start it, vehicle jumped forward, could not disengage clutch....:icon_redface:
 
To elaborate on the reversed disk.. The correct direction is with the hub stack toward the pp.

Here is a photo of a known correct t90 in a Scout 80. Compare visible land marks and see if your's is similar.
 

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Looks like the clutch fingers were way out of adjustment,probably the reason why the po slapped a new clutch in it and never drove it again....backed the adjustment screws out 2 full turns each as a starting point,reinstalled everything,looks much better.with the to bearing at rest its just making contact with the fingers,should I readjust the clutch fingers until its free floating at rest?
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When you release the pedal the fork should retract the to bearing so there is about 1/16 - 1/8 clearance between the bearing face and the fingers. If it rubs the bearing will be wasted in no time from spinning all of the time. That is what the extension spring in my photo is for. It works in conjunction with a screw stop to limit the amount of retract.
 
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