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Tom Woods 1310 Super Flex Ujoint

wondering exactly how this joint works and if it will help my issue. i've got sii with a 4" rc lift, 5" cpt shackles, 4* caster shims. the front driveline angle is pretty steep. it doesn't bind but the u-bolts kiss the yolk sometimes. seems to be when the hubs are locked but in 2wd. in 4wd, i seem to be ok. a couple of questions;

1. what does the joint do?
2. does the joint go at the t-case or the diff?
3. does it matter how the offset is oriented?

i know there are speed/vibe issues. that will not be a concern as i only use 4wd at low speeds. the ultimate solution will be a cut & turn but not quite ready.

thanks for any insight.
 

Hondo

Member
The joints move the crosses back away from the yokes. The center of the crosses of the stock u-joints were hitting the end of the pinion shaft and output shaft of the T-case on mine. I have a similar set up, but with skyjacker springs. Make sure you check clearances with the axle at full droop. You will probably want them at both ends of the drive shaft. Since you live up in snow country, be advised you will probably be giving up 4-hi. The front output shaft seal on my D300 started leaking shortly after installing the Tom Woods. Forgot and left my front hubs locked on a short street trip. Think these are mostly meant for low speed trail rigs. If the u-bolts are only kissing the yokes at full droop, I'd whip out the die grinder and do a little tolerancing.
 

Mochamike

Member
The joints move the crosses back away from the yokes. The center of the crosses of the stock u-joints were hitting the end of the pinion shaft and output shaft of the T-case on mine. I have a similar set up, but with skyjacker springs. Make sure you check clearances with the axle at full droop. You will probably want them at both ends of the drive shaft. Since you live up in snow country, be advised you will probably be giving up 4-hi. The front output shaft seal on my D300 started leaking shortly after installing the Tom Woods. Forgot and left my front hubs locked on a short street trip. Think these are mostly meant for low speed trail rigs. If the u-bolts are only kissing the yokes at full droop, I'd whip out the die grinder and do a little tolerancing.
X2.

Plus
They work great. Put one on the end with the most angle... (usually at the pinion end of the DS)

Since the the the pairs of caps are offset, it spaces the yokes out about 3/4" further away from each other which give them more room for clearance.

As Hondo said, it does cause vibrations at high speeds... but I've driven mine 30-40mph on dirt roads in 4wd with no problem.
 
a few months ago, installed the joint on the pinion end of my front driveline. haven't done any wheelin', however, with the front hubs locked so the shaft spins, i get a vibration at pretty low speeds, 5-10 mph. this is in 2wd with the hubs locked.

i could answer my own question by putting in 4wd, which i will do. are vibes reduced in 4wd? would it help to reduce vibes if i installed a joint on the t-case end?
 
Was the driveshaft balanced ahead of time (with a regular joint)?

No on the added joint at the other end.
thanks. i had no vibration with the regular joint. i assume it was balanced. obviously i'm using the joint because of the driveline angle. i have a 4" sua lift and axle shims. i know the proper fix is a cut & turn.

in the meantime, can a driveline shop rebalance the shaft with the joint? alternatively, i can put in a regular joint and grind the yolk a bit.
 

Mochamike

Member
When you pulled the slip yoke off to install the new joint did you mark it to put it back exactly the way it was before?
If not, make sure it's in phase? If it is in phase, rotate it 180* & try it.

You can also test for vibrations with the hubs unlocked and put it in 4wd.... That will turn the drive shaft & axle shaft.
Driving it with the hubs locked does the same thing but the disconnect is at the tcase, versus 2 disconnects at the hubs..
 
When you pulled the slip yoke off to install the new joint did you mark it to put it back exactly the way it was before?
If not, make sure it's in phase? If it is in phase, rotate it 180* & try it.

You can also test for vibrations with the hubs unlocked and put it in 4wd.... That will turn the drive shaft & axle shaft.
Driving it with the hubs locked does the same thing but the disconnect is at the tcase, versus 2 disconnects at the hubs..
thanks. here are a couple of pics. i did mark the shaft before removal. i'm pretty darn sure it went back in the way it came out. i do have vibs with the hubs locked and 2wd. i'll rotate 180* and see what happens.

 
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