To rebuild Holley 1904 or?

Zackaddict

Zackaddict

Member
Hey guys. Got my 66' scout 800, 196 4-banger out yesterday and the throttle got stuck wide open. I costed into a parking lot and tried getting the throttle unstuck. Long story short towed it home and took the carb off.

Well somehow the throttle shaft snapped right in two letting the butterfly just do what ever it wanted.

I wanted to ask the scout masters on this forum they're option on weither I should try and get a new throttle shaft and lever assembly and rebuild the carb (including getting a new acc pump lever since that's broken as well)?

I've looked around on the forum and I've seen a few people talking about switching to a Weber 32/36 or some other 2 barrel.

I'm looking for any input. I don't have a ton of spare cash so not sure I can go all out and get the top of the line carb. Thanks guys

image.jpg
This is the broken throttle shaft and broken acc pump lever
 
IIRC that carb has a castiron base, so to save some $ you could soft solder the shaft to the plate. Or if you want live a bit more dangerously, try brazing it. I've seen racing carbs done this way.
 
To bad it is not a 152, I have a few spare 1904's that I could salvage a good shaft from.

The 1904 on the 196 has a bigger throttle bore and the 152 spec 1904 is the smaller one is. Along with the bigger bore the mounting hole pattern is bigger as well.

I would only recommend sourcing a shaft or rebuildable carb to fix your issue.
 
Robert Kenney said:
The 1904 on the 196 has a bigger throttle bore and the 152 spec 1904 is the smaller one is. Along with the bigger bore the mounting hole pattern is bigger as well.
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Is the throttle shaft also differently bored? I'm wondering if the butterfly would still bolt to the 152 throttle shaft or?
 
FDChappie said:
IIRC that carb has a castiron base, so to save some $ you could soft solder the shaft to the plate. Or if you want live a bit more dangerously, try brazing it. I've seen racing carbs done this way.
Click to expand...


I was actually already wondering about this. I was wondering if the solder would hold up or not. Is there any chance the head of the engine would weaken the solder?

The only thing I've seen is buying a dif throttle body. But if I could just solder it, I wonder if that would be okay.

To be honest I feel so lucky that one of those screws off the bitterly didn't go into the pistons. Haha
 
Soft solder melts at around 400F, so temp is not the issue. There is lots of surface area there for strength and it looks like both pieces are brass. If you want to try to salvage it, I would meticulously clean the plate and shaft and then lightly tin both using acid flux. Assemble as far as possible in the base of the carb and then use something like needle nose vice grips to clamp things together while gently heating to melt the solder. Be sure your throttle linkage is adjusted properly and not trying to twist the shaft off the carb at full throttle.
 
Update!

I couldn't get the solder to bond at a strength that I felt confident in. So I looked up a new throttle shaft (about $45 plus shipping) and I needed a new acc. Pump lever which is roughly $20 plus shipping. Adding the new gasket set I would need I was going to be coming in around $110-130.

I looked through eBay and found a complete Weber 32/36 carb + adapter kit for the scout for a decent price and decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to a double barrel. (I'll miss the oil air bath cleaner). Pretty easy setup actually. image.jpg

I will say I always feel dirty when I put metric/European parts on an American truck.

But because nothing comes easy with a project like this when I start the engine, I'm getting a very loud squeal. It sounds like a belt. I have an alternator swap and the pulley is very warm to the touch after it's run for a bit. So I think the alternator isn't spinning free enough. I've never had an issue with belts slipping before. You guys have any thoughts?

Is there a chance when I snapped the throttle shaft having the engine redline could have mucked up the alternator?

P.s. My scout is pretty dirty. Cleaning is on the to-do list.
P.p.s sorry about the novel I just wrote.
 
Looks like you scored! I think you'll be happier with that carb in the long term. As for the squeal, remove the belt and start the engine for half a minute. That will remove all doubt about if the belt is the issue.
 
I have the 1920 as parts that came on the 196 in my 64. IIRC the 1904 was the 152 carb and the 1920 was on the 196 although they look exactly the same.
 
FDChappie said:
As for the squeal, remove the belt and start the engine for half a minute. That will remove all doubt about if the belt is the issue.
Click to expand...

Good call chappie!

Huge upset! It's not the belt. Unhooked it and started it up like you suggested and I couldnt tell any difference in sound. It sounds airy and whistlie but similar to a belt squeal

I have an electric fuel pump. I'm wondering if the swuealings coming from the old fuel pump? Maybe a vacuum tube cane unhooked?
Thanks for any and all input guys
 
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. First put the belt back on. ;-] And then remove the air cleaner with it running partially cover the air intake with your hands. If the sound changes it is internal to the carb, If not it's probably an external leak somewhere.

Why was this carb being sold???
 
Carb is suppose to be new. It is as far as I can tell.

Tried restricting airflow but I didn't notice much of a difference besides the engine slowing down and the noise dying down alittle.

Engine will slow down and stall after alittle bit too. Starts on full choke only really. I imagine that's just because I need to adjust the mixture screws
 
Well it sounds like it's an external vacuum leak. A spray of carb cleaner around the manifold and base of the carb may speed the engine up a bit when you hit the leak. Give it just enough choke to keep it running while you test.
 
Good news

It was the adapter plate at the bottom of the carb. I hadn't tightened it down enough.

This girl runs better the. She has in at least 30 years. I'm in love!! (Have been for awhile)

Might be more carb then she'll ever need but that's fine. Thank you guys for your help.
 
Zackaddict said:
Good news

It was the adapter plate at the bottom of the carb. I hadn't tightened it down enough.

This girl runs better the. She has in at least 30 years. I'm in love!! (Have been for awhile)

Might be more carb then she'll ever need but that's fine. Thank you guys for your help.
Click to expand...


You'll be surprised how much better it drives
 
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