Taking SOA back to stock

TXFireman

New member
I read through a thread below weighing the pros and cons of SOA. I bought this Scout II with some kind of homemade lift, stock springs, long shackles ( 10") and the axles had been rotated. The steering was horrible, the shackles would sway back and forth. Let me add that these were not h-braced heavy duty shackles, but the ones you buy at pep boys or something. The spring perches were homemade out of some square tubing, looks like.

I ordered a 4" lift with the intention of installing it in the factory location under the axle, but my tires wouldn't clear ( 35 x 12.50), so I put it over the axle on the perches that were there. As you can imagine, it is now lifted to the moon. Now, I have a pretty drastic vibration from my driveline. I need some opinion from "guys who have been there, done that". Keep in mind I will do zero rock crawling, just putting around town and the deer woods.

What I am contemplating is buying some smaller tires, putting the 4" lift springs under the axles. This would remove the extension peg from my steering linkage that keeps coming loose, take out the drastic ujoint angles, and I feel just be less future problems as it will be closer to "stock". The main drawback of this is that it appears the front axle ends were cut/rotated and re-welded, so that would have to be fixed.

-----or-----

I have read about replacing one end of the driveshaft with a cv joint. Can this be done at a competent driveshaft place, or is it a specialty? I also heard mentioned some other type of coupling, but I can't remember what it was called ( camden joint?)

like I said, I am not going for jacked up, extreme off road. It is up now, and I don't mind it being there, but I want to obviously spend the least $$. Cv joints vs. Axle re-cutting. Either way, I'm going to have to pay someone.
 

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Btw, here is the current height, 4" spring lift, normal stock shacles, SOA.
 

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Now I'm not trying to offend you but I emphasize do not drive with this setup. In fact I would not drive that out of my shop let alone on the road. That has to be the scariest looking steering set up that I have seen to date. I have to laugh as I've seen many different setups in the past 20 years that were pretty bad but I think this takes the top prize.



Put it back to stock and leave the knuckles turned as regardless of whether it is SOA or SUA these vehicles still are in need of having this done. If you leave it SOA then you will need this - partsmike Scout hysteer kit - IH Parts America Scout And this - tierod and draglink assy for dual hole hysteer arms - IH Parts America Scout
 
Not offended at all. That doodad was on here when I got it. It flexes. I am assuming it is homemade, as I have never seen anything like it. It won't stay tight.

I May be using the word "knuckles" wrong. What I am talking about are the "c" shaped ends on the axle. If I go back under, to the factory perches, those will end up not perpendicular to the ground, but tilted back a bit. I guess I could cut those factory perches off and weld new ones at the correct angle?

How 'bout those square tubing perches? Pretty fancy, huh?
 
Tilted back it good.

Cut all the po stuff off. Put your 4" springs underneath and put the steering back to stock, and put more normal sized shackles on. If you don't need the clearance and articulation of a SOA then you'll be much happier. Nice set of 33's, maybe a 1 or 2" body lift if you still need a little clearance for the tires and cruise it.

4" springs and 3" body lift will fit 35's. And wheel ok. Not a fan of 3" bl's, but they do work and if everything is still solid, they are save.
 
Here's how she sits now....took that extension off, swapped for a set of 31x10.50s. Didn't want to use a body lift after all the hours spent on the bumper. Drives fine, steering is as tight as my 08 Chevy. Now to get back unde that hood!

Thanks all, when the wallet recovers be looking for my distributor/transmission/carb questions!
 

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