Scout II SOA Correct Caster

unlawful

unlawful

New member
Hey guys,

new to the forum and having trouble finding some information. I'm doing a SOA on my 73 Scout II and I'm wondering what degrees I'm shooting for my caster, 4*, 6*, 10* or what? I've searched and searched, but I can't seem to find it. I'm using stock leafs, possibly rearced with another full left added.

Also, is it necessary to do a shackle reversal with the SOA, or is that just a personal preference?

Thanks for the help.
 
We like to set the caster at 5* on the passenger side and 4.75* on the driver. The split in caster will keep the Scout driving straight on our crowned roads.

Reverse shackle is not necessary but does greatly improve spring flex and ride quality.
 
What Jeff said. Shoot for between 4º and 6º, any more can make if very hard to steer.


And again, Jeff's on the ball on the rs. There are lots of reasons to go rs, and even a few good ones to stick with fs. However, if your going to do a rs, now's the time to do it, as, depending on how you make your rs, it can change the angle of the springs which will effect they caster you just dialed in with your cut-n-turn.

It an be fixed with shims however, so its not the end of the world.
 
Thanks for the help guys, that's great!

One other question. Will an SOA clear 35s on stock springs, or should I be looking at different leafs and/or a body lift?

Thanks again.
 
Is that caster angle taken from the pinion flange, or from the machined top of the axle "c"?
 
unlawful said:
thanks for the help guys, that's great!

One other question. Will an SOA clear 35s on stock springs, or should I be looking at different leafs and/or a body lift?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

SOA alone will not usually clear 35" tires. But they will fit if you are just going for the 'looks' of 35" tires...


I really feel that to clear 35" tires for wheeling with any wheel travel you need to SOA, a lil' body lift, a lil' fender trimming, and some longer than stock shackles or shackle reverse.
 
chris pucci said:
SOA alone will not usually clear 35" tires. But they will fit if you are just going for the 'looks' of 35" tires...


I really feel that to clear 35" tires for wheeling with any wheel travel you need to SOA, a lil' body lift, a lil' fender trimming, and some longer than stock shackles or shackle reverse.
Click to expand...
Agreed. You May still need to do some sort of bump stop as well to keep the tires out of the sheet-metal.

Truth be told, anything bigger than say a 32" tire starts to exceed the wheel-wells on a Scout II. They are actually pretty close to 33" in diameter. A 33" tire *can* be stuffed in there, but it needs to be exact, and every Scout and set of springs is a little different so while my rig, with my springs set the tire in *almost* the perfect position to tuck right in, and I know alot of folks that it doesn't. I actually had to trim/clean up a little of the front of my rear wells, as different flexing situations, and air pressures can cause rubbing.

Once you get above 33" tires, you need to start compromising. Either lift more to keep the tire out of the metal, limit up travel, cut or..... Combination of all the above it usually a good tactic. All these equations will also change depending on lift springs vs SOA, or higher-arch (or stiffer) springs vs soft and flexy. A 4" leaf-sprung truck, as only 4" or so of lift can fit and 33" tire "better" than a SOA rig (5-6" of lift) with the same 33" tire... Cause the SOA rig can typically stuff that tire further up into the sheet metal.

Food for thought.
 
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