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Scout 800 Wiring Issues

kkorn75

New member
I have a 1969 Scout 800A with a 4 cylinder 196. I bought an EZ wiring kit and everything is finally coming together. I have read multiple posts about wiring and since every Scout seems to be a little different I am still lost on the last couple of wires. I have attached a wiring diagram I came up with that shows how I have it wired right now. It will turn the engine over and start but I know there isn't any chargeback to the battery from the alternator at this point. My main question is where do I connect the Alt. Power and Battery Positive so that the system will charge. Another question I have is about the number 4 connection on the regulator, is there a wire that should go there or do I need to jump 4 to 3, or does 4 go to my 6v original gauges? I'm just guessing because I have seen so many posts my thoughts are all over the place and I am second guessing myself. Also if anyone sees any problems with my drawing please speak up. Just fyi the black box on the solenoid power is the fusible link and the coil pos. is attached to a ballast resistor. I feel like I am so close but can't cross the finish line.
 

Attachments

1975IH200

Member
Your GM style Voltage Regulator should have terminals labeled: F, 2, 3, 4.

Terminals F & 2 connect to the two prong connector that plugs into the alternator.

Terminal 3 should be a #10 gauge wire that connects to the alternator "Batt" terminal.

Terminal 4 should be a #14 gauge wire that connects to the ignition switch, 'switched position'. Meaning the terminal is how when the ignition is on.
 

kkorn75

New member
Thanks 1975IH200. So if I follow what you said, I now have the Alt Exciter wire and the Alt Power wire that need a home. Any Ideas, and Should the battery positive cable go directly to the starter solenoid.
 

1975IH200

Member
Move the blue wire at Volt Reg #3 to Volt Reg #4.

Connect the red wire with the "?" to the alternator, "BATT" terminal.

Run a #10 gauge wire from Volt Reg #3 to the solenoid, same terminal that the battery + cable is attached to.
 

kkorn75

New member
From my research and looking at some other diagrams here is my final wiring diagram. I think the alt exc does the job of the 10 gauge wire to solenoid. All diagrams from EZ and Painless shownthat wire going to terminal 3 with terminal 4 jumped. Please let me know if anyone sees any issues.
 

Attachments

Greg R

Member
1st thing we need to know to answer correctly is does your Scout have an ammeter or charge indicator lamp?

There were 2 variations of how the external regulator was wired up. One was on an ammeter equipped system, Term 2 went to the ignition switch. Term 2 connects to the field relay, and the ignition switch latched it on. Term 4 was NOT to be hooked up.

On an indicator lamp lash-up, Term 2 was wired to an "R" on the alternator, at speed it latched the field relay. Terminal 4 was connected to the indicator lamp through the ignition switch. When the field relay latched, it put battery positive on both sides of the lamp to make it go out and proving that the alternator was working.

Your wiring should reflect what system it's on. Do you have the schematics in the Service Manual to make this easier?
 

kkorn75

New member
Greg R. thanks for the reply. There is not an ammeter or a charge indicator light. I do have the schematics in the manual but this is an aftermarket wiring kit. Were you thinking I was trying to wire in with original wiring or does what you are describing still apply?
In both the Painless and EZ kits it shows the Alternator Excitor going to terminal 3 with terminal 4 tied into the wire coming from terminal 3. See the attached. I am no electrician and I want to make sure I installed this kit correctly so that the battery charges.
 

Attachments

Greg R

Member
We can keep it short and sweet, kinda like a Chrysler ala IH but without the ammeter.

F- goes to the alternator field or the Right terminal of the plug

2- goes to ignition feed on, that will latch the field relay OR you
connect it to the Left terminal of the alt plug and it will latch
at alternator speed


3- battery positive or voltage, this wire is the field current for
the alt., it does not have be big, 14 ga is fine; it may be sourced at coil positive upstream of any resistance or
ballast resistor. you want accurate battery voltage somewhat downstream of it's charging point

4- leave alone 3&4 are connected internally with the latched field
relay

This is assuming you're using the original GM style IH regulator with a 10DN externally regulated alternator and NOT a 10SI INTERNALLY REGULATED alternator

The alternator's output is directly connected to the Batt terminal on the starter.

This is how my 68 800 is hooked up regardless of whether it has an ammeter or voltage meter in it's place.
 
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