Reverse Shackle installation question?

codeman

codeman

Member
Has anyone assembled (welded) the fangs and tube together and installed the unit as an assembly?
My bare frame is upside down right now on benches. I've been beefing up body mounts, spring hangers, etc. Preparing for a SOA. I had a thought about welding the fangs & tube up as an assembly then installing that to the frame. I have a known flat surface that would allow everything to be flat and aligned and could easily hold the width to the specific dimension.
Any thoughts, pro or con????
 
That's how we mostly do it these days and feel it does make the install a little easier and accurate.
 
Is there a specific location for the holes to be bored for the relocation of the shackles? I have read the threads & instructions included with the kit. Since my Scout is completely apart, I'm trying to do as many of the frame/suspension mods as I can to the bare frame. I'll be installing new alcan springs, SOA, with 3 - 4" of lift. Just trying to make things as easy as I can?!!?!?
 
codeman said:
is there a specific location for the holes to be bored for the relocation of the shackles? I have read the threads & instructions included with the kit. Since my Scout is completely apart, I'm trying to do as many of the frame/suspension mods as I can to the bare frame. I'll be installing new alcan springs, SOA, with 3 - 4" of lift. Just trying to make things as easy as I can?!!?!?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately there is no specific location. With the different leafsprings that are out there, engine combinations and bumpers they all end up sitting at different spots. Majority of the installs have the hole drilled at the oval hole location(see below picture). But it can be before that oval hole, after that oval hole or right in the middle. One reason we paint our frames as opposed to powedercoating is so that we can make last minute modifications to the frame. Drilling the hole in the frame and welding in the sleeve is one of the last things we do these days on a customer build so that we can get as accurate as measurement as possible and then a simple paint touch up is done before final assembly. For the times that we have needed to preload the suspension and didn't have the engine in it or body on it we use IH cylinder heads as they are heavy and around us.

21749d1382550200-rodneys-1980-turbo-diesel-Scout-img_3203.jpg
 
Thanks for the info! No short cuts, bummer! Paint was one of my concerns as well. You've killed 2 birds with one stone!
 
Hello guys!

Here's the required info:

1979 Scout II
304 v8
SUA 4" suspension lift
CPT hd u-bolt kit
CPT reverse shackle kit
CPT axle shims for better drive line angle
new u-joints during rs install for the wheels

I am getting a noticeable "bounce" in the front end when driving over anything that is the size of a manhole cover or more.

Is this normal?

Also I now have some hefty postive camber in the front. I know it is supposed to be under 1*, could this be causing the "bounce"?
 
The steel shims we sell are for caster correction, not for driveline angle. Except for a cut and turn where you are taking into account the pinion angle and rotating the knuckles accordingly. If you flip the shims around so that the thicker side is facing the front (for SUA) that will minimize the wandering of the front end. The c's should be straight up and down factory (0* caster).

You will need to jack up the vehicle and let the front axle fully droop to check for driveline binding. If any exists, clearancing with an angle grinder or carbide burr in the yokes to allow the driveshaft to spin freely will be needed. Thanks.
 
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