Reluctor (Trigger)

S

superc_1

Member
Are new reluctor avaible? Will a aftermarket reluctor work? Do you use a continuity checker to check the old reluctor?
 
superc_1 said:
are new reluctor avaible? Will a aftermarket reluctor work? Do you use a continuity checker to check the old reluctor?
Click to expand...

The reluctor (or trigger wheel) is the rotating component in the gold box (and also in magnetic trigger) distributors. That is the powdered metal "wheel" with the eight projections or fingers that sweeps past the pickup module. The correct terminology used by Holley/ihc for the pickup module is "sensor".

Service part replacement reluctors/trigger wheels are available for chrysler and Ford electronic distributors that use a magnetic trigger systems. I've never seen availability of a replacement trigger wheel for any Holley gold box distributor which is much smaller in diameter and is of a somewhat different configuration. The only thing that can happen to a gold box reluctor is breakage from someone not handling the distributor carefully or when trying to remove it (it's pressed into position on the mechanical advance unit). There is nothing there to fail other than if it's mechanically damaged.

There is no test specification for the sensor coil (pickup) itself. The operational test procedure involves the use of a special service tool which is a "switch" that emulates a trigger signal and is used for a substitute sensor and to determine if the sensor system or the amplifier (gold box) or the wiring connections are at fault in regards to a "no spark at plug" condition. All this process is covered in about 30 pages of the service manual for that system.

I don't have that special tool/switch to use for a substitute, nor do I know anyone who does. If we could ever actually acquire one of those tools I know we can make some up, but with no sample I'd personally not know where to begin.

Those types of special tool was very common in the industry back in the day, all electronic ignition systems had their own unique set of test instruments and fixtures to use in diagnostics. I have attempted to check these gold box sensors/pickups with an ohmmeter with no success as there are no specifications or procedures published that I've been able to track down. The analysis I did attempt to work out ended up being of no use when I attempted to repeat the same test procedures on similar components.

We have a member here on this forum who recently bought a shutdown IH dealership in a small town that is loaded with parts and pure junk. It's possible that he might be able to find this particular tool in amongst all the debris he bought. Right now, I have a box enroute that has some items from that dealership, I'll ask the member to be on the lookout for that tool or any thing else which might be of value to us in order to have a sample to use in reconstruct tools like that.
 
Thanks for the responce! I guess I talking about the sensor that goes next to the reluctor? I found one on an old junkie and I going to put that on today I hope, and see if this will help me get my terra running if not I'm going to get the ho-181 kit to put in. I would like to get a little use out of the gold box that I paid dearly for; before, I change over to the pertronixs? I've got great spark at the cap but nothing pass the dizzy; so I'll keep mess'in til I exhaust all of my avenues :)-).
 
If you have good spark at the coil but nothing coming out of the plugs then the ign system itself is working and the problem is in the cap or rotor.
 
Eric
I have a new cap and rotor installed? I've been told the problem is in the trigger part? It also has new plug wires? I can see hot white sparks come out of the coil wire but nothing or weak spark at the plugs? Any suggestion?
 
superc_1 said:
thanks for the responce! I guess I talking about the sensor that goes next to the reluctor? I found one on an old junkie and I going to put that on today I hope, and see if this will help me get my terra running if not I'm going to get the ho-181 kit to put in. I would like to get a little use out of the gold box that I paid dearly for; before, I change over to the pertronixs? I've got great spark at the cap but nothing pass the dizzy; so I'll keep mess'in til I exhaust all of my avenues :)-).
Click to expand...

This doesn't make any sense. Follow the "high voltage" (secondary output) path....

The coil interfaces on the secondary side through the rotor as it "rotates" and distributes a secondary output signal (the "spark") to each terminal inside the cap in firing order sequence. The high voltage signal is then directed to each spark plug electrode in turn by the spark plug cables.

So...you must have a healthy spark (at least 3/8">1/2" nice fat blue spark) when a plug wire metallic connector is held adjacent to an engine ground point. If it will fire an "open air" gap of that width, then you do not have a secondary output problem! Test each spark plug metallic termination in sequence as the engine is cranking over. Then back up and replace the cable from the coil to the distributor center terminal and test again.

A Holley distributor rotor does not incorporate a resistor inside it's construction. It is s simple direct current path with no added resistance.

A prestolite electronic rotor does have a "resistor" incorporated inside it's construction, I have posted pics of that in another thread....but, those rotors are in no way interchangeable on the various distributors. In the case of the prestolite rotor, they can and do "go bad" due to failure of the internal resistive element or the riveted connection which holds the assembly together...or the brass tip simply erodes due to conducting continuous high voltage over time and the tip "arcs" in the air gap between the rotor tip and the distributor cap terminal. That internal resistance of the rotor is a design element of the prestolite electronic amplifier (same purpose as the gold box) and is an absolutely necessary for it's continued functionality over a long service life.

Of course...even a new gold box can fail! Have you simply swapped another known good gold box onto the system for testing?

The most likely "fail" point for any gold box system is the actual wiring harness and the connectors used. That means the entire wiring system for the entire ignition system! The male/female connection points must be absolutely clean and bright with no measurable resistance due to oxidation/corrosion and should also be doped with dielectric grease.

I've never found or seen an actual "failed" sensor/trigger assembly, the problems with these systems are always with either the wiring or the gold box amplifier itself. And in the case of "repeated" gold box/amplifier failure, the problem is always the wiring and connections that wipes out the amplifier itself. Failure of the amplifier over time is normally due to the location at which ihc mounted it and the resulting "heat soak" over time.
 
Up_date!
I broke down and brought the p-tron and installed it in the Holley? Very easy install I might add! Terra fired right up, but with alot of missing and smoke out the tail pipes? I checked my plugs and theres black smut on all the plugs? I cleaned all the plugs up and it running nice now, but this leads me to believe that my carb must be running Rich. I have never had any problems running around town, but when I drove it about 100 miles (at one time)is when the problem started?
Question is: what would cause this condition and any advise on the fix?
Thanks again!
 
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